James Bond smoke
so just drove it. it still smokes not as bad but its blueish-white didn't get it to running temp but it was smoking a good bit, and prior to putting the turbo it didn't smoke so.. im guessing moving the return up helped, should i try the other line i have and if not use a restricotor?
Also I replaced the return hose with a silicone one that's oil resistance and the is no kinks and since I welded the bung higher the line is maybe 3 in long . And still have 100 psi of oil pressure at the back of the motor and have no outside leaks. Unless coming from Turbo seal.
i use a .08 restrictor, i also have a chinese turbo, and they will not put up with high oil pressure at all do not even the start the car until u add a restrictor and pray that the seals are not gone which i suspect they will be, the only turbos ive seen that can handle that amoount of pressure is the holsets, also your return line should have been a minimum of 5/8, from your pic it looks like yours is only half inch, the kinks and such would totally have caused problems, if youve fixed this you should post a pic so we can check it out but i personally would weld a larger bung in the pan angled slightly upward and between 2 of the bolts and only an inch and a half out of the pan. gravity is the only thing returning the oil so u need the volume.
ive installed alot of these ebay kits and i always use 5/8 id and a .08 restrictor. one has been on for 3 years with not so much as a puff of smoke. I have never experienced any problems with ebay/chinese turbos its usually oil feed or return that makes them go which is usually installer error, like i said IMHO i would use a bigger return and i would definately definately get a restrictor in there theyre only 10 bucks, if it still smokes after that then the seals are toast. oh and u should really give them a bit of a brake in period and use dino oil to help everything brake in properly switch back to synthetic after 500 to 1000 k or so
I put the blue restrictor on that I have and it still smokes. Not sure of the conversion is size but it's 3/16 I.d . It smokes the most under load. I was wondering if that restrictor is the correct size. By the way the car is being driven.
If you don't know what the hell the size of the restrictor is, why are you using it?
Its better to check to see if one is needed first and NOT assume it has to be there. There's no general rule for what size is needed. Try that without it first. hopefully you haven't damaged anything yet.
Its better to check to see if one is needed first and NOT assume it has to be there. There's no general rule for what size is needed. Try that without it first. hopefully you haven't damaged anything yet.
I just put it on today.I have tried it without first,then fixed the return line and replaced feed still same issue. The restrictor I tried I.d is 3/16
3/16 is aproximately 0.19 which is still more than double the size im recommending, im certain u need one .08 works wonderfully on ebay turbos i have more experience with ebay turbos than any other and i am sure u need one, like i siad if youre lucky the seals will not be trashed and the car should not smoke anymore, if it does ur seals are toast and u might as well just buy another turbo. with the restrictor u will get a nice long life out of it. its almost always over oiling that kills them prematurely, which sometimes i wonder if installation error is why chinese turbos get such a bad wrap.
.080 is what he means. Did you let the other oil burn off first before putting it back on? Its now time to check the turbine housing itself. Remove downpipe and check for wet oil there as well. follow the steps we discussed.
whiterice-gsr i dont have a no name turbo and if it is dead ill just buy a rebuild kit for it.i dont belive driving it and staying out of boost would blow the seal or i would hope not the car hasnt been driven more than 5 miles
shodan, the first time i took the dp off before the restrictor it was very wet and i did clean the entire inside of the dp and the exhaust housing.before i put the restrictor on i did let it idle to burn what i couldn't get out .today i put the restrictor on and it smoked cold and at running temp. and i raised the car up and the inside of the dp is wet wit h oil.
everywhere i look the id of the return is 1/2 which is what mine is and if you look at page 2 i raised it up and it still ha a downward angle, and a new line with zero kinks.And my oil pressure still peggs at 100
shodan, the first time i took the dp off before the restrictor it was very wet and i did clean the entire inside of the dp and the exhaust housing.before i put the restrictor on i did let it idle to burn what i couldn't get out .today i put the restrictor on and it smoked cold and at running temp. and i raised the car up and the inside of the dp is wet wit h oil.
everywhere i look the id of the return is 1/2 which is what mine is and if you look at page 2 i raised it up and it still ha a downward angle, and a new line with zero kinks.And my oil pressure still peggs at 100
Turbos done... New sealing ring and the turbine shaft has to be inspected with new journal bearings.
Oil pressure pegging at 100psi is not good either. You'll need to have the turbo inspected, get rid of that welded piece of metal attached to the oil pan (I still think that is of concern) and use a true stainless 1/2 -10AN oil return line.
Once you have the turbo back, use a .060" restrictor and go from there..
Oil pressure pegging at 100psi is not good either. You'll need to have the turbo inspected, get rid of that welded piece of metal attached to the oil pan (I still think that is of concern) and use a true stainless 1/2 -10AN oil return line.
Once you have the turbo back, use a .060" restrictor and go from there..
Turbos done... New sealing ring and the turbine shaft has to be inspected with new journal bearings.
Oil pressure pegging at 100psi is not good either. You'll need to have the turbo inspected, get rid of that welded piece of metal attached to the oil pan (I still think that is of concern) and use a true stainless 1/2 -10AN oil return line.
Once you have the turbo back, use a .060" restrictor and go from there..
Oil pressure pegging at 100psi is not good either. You'll need to have the turbo inspected, get rid of that welded piece of metal attached to the oil pan (I still think that is of concern) and use a true stainless 1/2 -10AN oil return line.
Once you have the turbo back, use a .060" restrictor and go from there..
Go an check that turbo!!!
I'm not assuming at all. I'm going based upon the long process of deductive elimination that you've been showing this last page or so
-Oil in turbine housing, and is continuing to show fresh "wet" oil
-High oil pressure (over 100psi) + the fact that you used the wrong restrictor and the leak in the turbine housing still continues.
- You have apparently addressed the oil return line issue, where there is a reduction in oil backup but not full elimination (due to the extended protruding piece of tubing from the oil pan.. I still say this is a major issue that may also be causing a backup, but you still won't get rid of it in favor of a proper oil return that does NOT use that piece)
You've left no other choice.. Turbo may be done... needs to be inspected and your oil return line needs to eliminate that protruding piece of metal.
Until you do those 2 things, you'll keep "spinning your wheels".
-Oil in turbine housing, and is continuing to show fresh "wet" oil
-High oil pressure (over 100psi) + the fact that you used the wrong restrictor and the leak in the turbine housing still continues.
- You have apparently addressed the oil return line issue, where there is a reduction in oil backup but not full elimination (due to the extended protruding piece of tubing from the oil pan.. I still say this is a major issue that may also be causing a backup, but you still won't get rid of it in favor of a proper oil return that does NOT use that piece)
You've left no other choice.. Turbo may be done... needs to be inspected and your oil return line needs to eliminate that protruding piece of metal.
Until you do those 2 things, you'll keep "spinning your wheels".
Ill check the Turbo and order the correct restrictor
Your saying my main issue is the return bung is to long. I know the inside diameter is correct. What. It I cut it shorter so it only sticks off the pan 1 inch tops s
Your saying my main issue is the return bung is to long. I know the inside diameter is correct. What. It I cut it shorter so it only sticks off the pan 1 inch tops s
Since I started working on Honda's and started using this web board, there has never been an issue that I haven't been able to resolve using the search function and asking people for help via posts, unless it was something stupid I did myself. Some people on this board have been working on Honda's and cars in general since before I was born. You have had a lot of really experienced and intelligent people try and assist you here but with negligible results on your end.
The real question is, why don't you do what other people are telling you will fix the problems you are running into? I just don't understand. If you think you know better then why post? You come on this web board asking for help, then only do somethings that are suggested and still have problems.
I am not trying to be a jerk here, just trying to understand things from your point of view.
The real question is, why don't you do what other people are telling you will fix the problems you are running into? I just don't understand. If you think you know better then why post? You come on this web board asking for help, then only do somethings that are suggested and still have problems.
I am not trying to be a jerk here, just trying to understand things from your point of view.
You might be beyond restrictor salvaging thinking at this point because of the bad return lines you've had before. unfortunately, you MUST REMOVE THE TURBO to have it inspected to rule it out. I'm not sure how much more clear I can be here.
Stop playing games, my friend..
1) Get your turbocharger inspected (you've likely killed it, but its more than likely reparable. If its an eBay turbo, throw it away or use it as a door stop)
2) completely rework the return line whether or not the turbo is has to be repaired, or you'll be in the same place you started... Seriously and honestly.
Start over and get the correct return lines from one of these places. Yes. Spend the money, dammit and stop this madness.
B&R Fittings
http://www.brfittings.com/index.php?...tegory&path=39
Or stan @ Fast-Turbo
http://www.fast-turbo.com/products/C...-Line-Kit.html
To look something like this
or this

Or even this

You can do this... you've come this far..
Its time to **** or get off the pot...




