MiraiZ

Got my FMAX today...FINALLY...most beautiful thing I've ever seen!!!

pics up soon!

JM Performance

Sweet! Its about time!

Things to check for:
1) check the studs on the manifold. Make sure they're not stripped, flattened, or at all messed up.

2) Since you have an ITR you probably have the LS piping. The LS piping is wrong and needs to be modified to fit. As of now Scott is making new piping. See if your's will fit and if it doesn't talk to him. As a temp fix, you can use radiator hose to change the piping as needed. I only had to make 1 cut for it to fit. Check out Torin's pics for more info: http://home.stny.rr.com/torin/ . Also, because of this, your bov will hit your hood, you'll need to cut a hole in the webbing. Again, this is all only if you have the LS piping.

3) the clamps for the fuel lines don't fit. you'll need new ones.

4) when you put your oil return line it. test mount the downpipe first. I accidentally put mine too close. It fits, but its close.

Thats all I can think of now.....good luck w/ it!

MiraiZ

Its only been in my house for less than 2hrs now, but I have already pulled out the manifold and torqued the bolts (remebering what you said about them)...they are a bit stiff but they're not stripping the thread so I think its okay...just need some WD-40.

The piping will need to be cut on my car anyways. My car is JDM so the piping will not clear the radiator core...so I am prepared for that. My car also does not have ABS (no ABS relays), so will I still need to drill into the hood webbing?

The fuel line clamps...are they too big or too small?

JM Performance

The little black T clamps are too small. Just get the worm clamps, they're super cheap.

I'm not sure whats gunna go on w/ your bov, but because of the angle of the piping and the location of the bov, my bov bolt hit the hood (look at Torin's pics again).

I just cut out a hole w/ a dremel, then rounded it out w/ a cylinder dremel grinder bit. It worked like a charm, I got a perfect circle.

Also, Torin bought some high temp (up to 3000 deg. F) gasket maker and thread lock. I bought some of his extra from him. It worked great. If you can get your hands on some I recommend you do it now, so that you dont have to take everything off again.

Um, I think thats it. Oh yeah, what fuel pump and fpr are you using? If your using a new pump, the stock fpr might not be able to keep the pressure low enough at idle. At least thats the problem I'm having.

Again, if you have any questions or problems, feel free to email me. I'm sure Torin will be glad to help as well.

-Matt


[Modified by 00SilverLS, 9:41 AM 12/18/2001]

MiraiZ

I'm doing the MF2 thing so no after market fuel pump...but might consider getting one off of a GT-R..heard that they work well!

hmmm...the BOV thing is baffling..does the pipe go over the abs relay, or does it go around it..if it goes over it, I might be able to set mine in a steeper downward angle sing I have no abs.

Are you using a head gasket or BTM? I got the gasket...its suprisingly thick! (three layers)...also...are you considering a blockguard? I know there's abig debat about this...

JM Performance

I'm not sure what your talking about w/ the ABS relay, I just know it didn't fit.

I got a new fuel pump "just incase". I probably didn't really need it though.

Also, I got the BTM, I didn't want to have to take my head off. And no, I'm not getting a block gaurd.

GruvyTune

the abs relay sits against the engine compartment wall near the overflow tank. My new pipes clear all that, i just had to cut a bit off the new pipe since there was an inch of overlap. I lost the bead on the pipe but it butts against the other intake pipe and i just clamped the coupling hose real tight, its not going anywhere.

Yes, do find some super high temp ceramic based thread locking compound and some gasket material if you can. Works great, no loosening (i lost one bolt in no time the first time around with lockwashers).

if you have a new fuel pump, the stock fpr will not go lower than 40 psi. if you went with hondata it wont matter.

if i can be of assistance let me know. i can't wait to redyno mine and finish tuning. i know i can get more out of this car but its running pretty darn well as it is.

torin

MiraiZ

Torin

How did you cope wth the MAP bypass issue and check engine light....did you get a missing link?

I was also suprised at how huge the turbo is. I'm so use to looking at the one that they sell at Autobacs...its an HKS T25 with the built in WG. Compared to that, my turbine looks like an airplane engine!....and it weighs a ton!!

Also...did you do the headgasket thing?

can't wait! I am going to put this in next week...I got a couple of buddies to help out...ones a tuning mechanic...does this stuff all the time, and the other is a helicoptor mechanic for the military...can't loose here eh!!


[Modified by MiraiZ, 7:44 AM 12/19/2001]

Dee

don't waste your money on a GTR pump unless it's the 280lph NISMO pump. The regular pump is only 190lph and cost $300. If your fuel psi is gonna stay under 80psi get a Walbro GSS342 if over 80psi get one of the Endyn modified Bosch pumps. Do not buy a Bosch pump in Japan because they are marked up 75~150%.

Is Dave still at sea?

MiraiZ

Dave gets back on the 23rd...can't wait to utilize his expertise! After what he's done to his car, i knew he had to be on this project with me.

JM Performance

The kit comes with a braket that relocates the map sensor and puts a check valve inbetween. Supposedly it works great.

b18bvudoo

can you snap a pic of the pipe you cut?

MiraiZ

yeah...i am going to photo document everything....

GruvyTune

i use the stock map sensor since I have a hondata and will not be boosting over 11psi as long as i have this engine in there. the hondata can be programmed for boost past 20psi if I put in a GM 3bar map sensor.

JM Performance

HA! Good luck. If you want to take pics of everything, have an extra person there to do it. Trust me, your not going to want to (be able to) stop at every step and snap a photo. I tried, it didn't work.

MiraiZ

There'll be three of us...i know its a lot of work but documenting everything makes it easier to back track if there's problems....

accordfreak

where'd you get your kit at and for how much?

MiraiZ

I got it for 3250 through a group buy that I formed a few months ago

MiraiZ

okay heres the pics so far:
http://community.webshots.com/album/27339990igWDeilBeH

Arturbo

It has a stage 2 turbine housing?

GruvyTune

should be a stage3 no?
MiraiZ,
did you figure out how you are going to seal that slip joint? Its a shitty connection. I initially had it slipping lots of exhaust into my engine compartment (really sucked when I was blowing oil through the turbo). I was going to put a clamp around it but I don't think it will compress well. I think I told you I slapped some ceramic high temp gasket material in there and now it doesn't leak at all (didi a tiny bit but I think carbon sealed that up).

What is the best way to check for small exhaust leaks anyway?

torin

JM Performance

Torin,

about that slip joint. I put the gasket maker around the joint and it was fine. Then one day I touched it and the whole thing of gasket just fell off. did you put the stuff in the joint, or just around it?

Arturbo

maybe it is a stage 3, but a .48?

art

GruvyTune

Matt.
you can't just put the **** around the gap, the ceramic gasket stuff is not like silicone. Its gets hard. I smeared it, like cream cheese on a bagel, all around the male end and the gave a slight twist as I put it in. Don't worry too much about some of it getting through into the exhaust, the stuff over time will eventually break up.

torin

DeeJay

Mine came today, This thing is high quality. I had scott make my wastegate open loop, so the pipe for the wategate just dumps straight out. It's supposed to make more power.