How long should the motor last on this. About a bottle a month, sometimes 2. Plan on doing a bottom end rebuild after it goes, but should be a few years right?


[Modified by TypeR1558, 4:05 PM 9/10/2002]

 

more like a few runs. 100 shot is huge.

 

Uh, HUH?!

I say you should go for a 150shot.

 

i use to direct port my type r whit a 100 shot whit no prob at all just get a msd and a better fuel pump and retard
high compression work good whit nos
tuning is the key

 

you have a good chance of blowing your engine with a 100 shot. you will prolly get threw 2 bottles. But yea, tune the sh*t out of it and it might last longer. i would go with a wet 50 shot or so.

 

IMO anything under 65-70 shot is a waste of money when it comes to nitrous. you can barely feel the tug with a 50 shot.

 

there is some dude in the ITR forum who has been running 100 direct port for a while now, i forget his name, i know he has a nice photo gallery....N1 exhaust, spoon wheels, aem cai....

 

on all stock internals...? not very long, even if you barely spray. why not just a 50shot?

 

My friend has a crx with a b16 nicely tuned on a 30 shot and outs down 192 to the ground with I/H/E with the 30 shot whcih ain't bad, and he put a 55 shot and the car ran liike **** even after it being tuned. So just as long as you tune a small shot could work, just depends on the setup and what exactly you want out of it.


Lee


[Modified by Rex2nv, 9:09 PM 9/10/2002]

 

Depending on tuning and fuel upgrades will be how long your motor lasts. The ITR's high compression gives you less room to run safely without detonation. One thing i will never understand is why people want to just do **** and dont care if they blow things up because they are going to "rebuilt it once its blown." Well, you never know whats going to give in your motor when it blows, you are running the possibility of ******* up some MAJOR **** or maybe just a blown piston ring-land. Put a hole in your c5 block and it wont be worth ****, i would think twice before wanting to blow a motor up on purpose.

 

most of your replies are stupid. gudeh23 had a good point..
anyhow ive run n20 and know how it is. i gurantee if u have the fuel and timing that motor will last well into 2 years. tune it and do it right. high comp and n20 is awesome just like high cr and boost makes efficient power. tune it.

 

lol! it will work if you tune it properly but if not.. bye bye type r

 

i was originally planing on building a all n20 motor but i dont have time or the extra money it costs. it was going to be a 200 shot motor but itll be a lot easier to turbo this motor. anyhow, ill answer ur questions no prob.
4-5 degrees timing retard
255 lph pump
msd

good to go

 

tuning is key. I have a friend squeezing 120 on a direct port nos setup on a stock b16a...he hasnt had a problem.

Tuning is key. I have also known people to blowup stuff with only a 50 shot...bad tuning.

liam

 

I ran a 80 shot direct port on my old B16A2 hatchback and it pulled a 12.3 @110. The car ran like a champ after several bottles of gas. As long as you do not get gas happy the R should last with a 100 shot.

 

Shut up if you have absolutely NO idea what you are talking about. A lot of ITR's run a 100 shot, i was just looking to hear from those who know people who have done it/doing it, or hearing from people who are doing it now. A 50 shot on an R? Sure the motor may last longer, but its just like more boost, i will rebuilt when the bottom goes like i said.

Jon

 

And how do you know this?

Jon

 

Well.. I thought about doing the bottom end with some money i have lying around now, but i figured i might as well just do it later, because the stock R internals could handle the 100 shot for a while without a problem. Most everyone i talk to says that when the nitrous takes its toll, i will just have to replace the pistons and rods. Will you explain this "HOLE" in the motor?

Jon

 

it seriously depends on tuning, yes tuning you do have to tune a no2 car...

no2 is just another route, its not like a "bolt-on" its not bolt on spray and lets go.....

-jordo

 

building the motor after it blows is a bad idea, as this is what i did, after your ringlands scratch up your cylinder wall your block may need to be bored then you have to pull it all apart. my boy just blew his motor on a zex kit 60shot, ran lean. the scratches were so bad he had to get a new block, after the boring there was not enough clyinder wall to use left. my advise is do it right the first time. it may cost a bit more but its worth it. **** buy pistons and rings give it a quick hone job and it will be that much stronger! and will take more nos, killing 2 birds with one stone

 

Stock rods arent the strongest ones on earth, however they can take a beating but sometimes they can fail due to so much stress and youll "throw a rod". Once they snap the rode will basically punch a hole in the block of the motor, after that the block isnt worth ****.

 

I like to look at things from the safe side i guess. I had a friend that ran a 100 shot on his gsr and burnt a valve. i know you have an R, but still, his went on the second bottle. I am just looking out for u, a type R engine isn't cheap. i don't know why you have to be so harsh. Run the 100 shot, i am just giving you my .02 like i thought you were supposed to do on these things.

 

I still dont know what valve flutter/bent valves sound like. I wish I could have a sound clip it or something.

Jon

 

What causes the valve to bend? The buildup of heat/pressure? Does the air/fuel ratio have anything to do with bending a valve?

jon

 

So to avoid very expensive damage in the case of "throwing a rod"... would doing a bottom end rebuild, prevent the very expensive engine repairs if i run into any at all?