Which intercooler/piping setup will be more efficient?
01-04-2007, 02:39 PM
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Which intercooler/piping setup will be more efficient?
I just got all of my 3" aluminum piping, and before I start fabbin it up I would like some input on which setup will be more efficient. The first pic, is how I previously had it, just like most setups, with the inlets on the IC on the ends of the tanks for a straight through design, but the downside it that there is alot of piping. The second pic, is how I was thinking MIGHT be more efficient. This design hast the compressor outlet going to the inlet on the TOP on the tank on the IC, and then the other side has a backdoor tank with the chargepipe having a very direct shot to the intake, but I am not sure if having a backdoor and top inlet will have a big effect, so if anyone would like to chime in, that would be great. Pardon the pics, as they only show the basic idea as well as MS paint could do, thanks.
01-04-2007, 04:01 PM
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Re: (Schister66)
yeah the second one would be better but i dont know if it would be that big of a deal.
And i also have no actual info to back that.
And i also have no actual info to back that.
01-04-2007, 04:19 PM
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Thanks guys. I think I might just go with the second one and make my own endtanks, because even with the backdoor tank, I would think that it would be the better choice. Thanks.
01-04-2007, 05:23 PM
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Re: (BB6-213)
Okay, now I have another question. I am looking at intercooler cores, and I wasnt to pick one that I won't sacrifice any throttle response with, but I also want to keep temps/detonation down, so for a 700whp H22 90% street 10% track, which would be the best size out of the cores I listed.
CORE SIZES"
22"X 10"X 5" - 900Cubic Feet/Min
24"X 12"X 4" - 800Cubic Feet/Min
CORE SIZES"
22"X 10"X 5" - 900Cubic Feet/Min
24"X 12"X 4" - 800Cubic Feet/Min
01-04-2007, 05:37 PM
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Re: (BB6-213)
i would go with: 24x12x4, i think that might even be a little overkill for what youre doing. but i would also use smaller charge piping, 3" is serious stuff so id prolly use 2.75" if you really want the big stuff but usually 2.5" is gravy in the navy
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01-04-2007, 05:48 PM
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I was thinking I will prolly go with the 4" core. I think the 3" piping will be the best bet for my setup, but thats just me.
01-04-2007, 06:24 PM
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will do man, I am just trying to get the maximum efficiency out of my setup, because 700whp will be at the turbos limits with big power within the rev's.
01-04-2007, 06:37 PM
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Re: (ccivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esedulerp5tenin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">considering he has a topmount mani, i'd say he's pretty serious with making a good amount of power
keep us updated</TD></TR></TABLE>
true. but look at his downpipe. looks like a 3", maybe 2.5" and also a relatively stock intake manifold. if i was gonna run 3" charge piping, id be running an edlebrock intake manifold, 75mm throttle body or bigger, and a 4" downpipe. thats just me. ask your shop and see what they recommend, especially cuz a 700whp daily driver isnt really possible. i mean if youre rich and can afford c16 to fill your tank, then thats cool and more power to you, but id say youre looking more around 450whp daily and youll stick eat almost anything out there for lunch
keep us updated</TD></TR></TABLE>
true. but look at his downpipe. looks like a 3", maybe 2.5" and also a relatively stock intake manifold. if i was gonna run 3" charge piping, id be running an edlebrock intake manifold, 75mm throttle body or bigger, and a 4" downpipe. thats just me. ask your shop and see what they recommend, especially cuz a 700whp daily driver isnt really possible. i mean if youre rich and can afford c16 to fill your tank, then thats cool and more power to you, but id say youre looking more around 450whp daily and youll stick eat almost anything out there for lunch
01-04-2007, 07:27 PM
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Re: (ccivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not trying to criticize, but... 700WHP on the street? Let's be realisitic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Who said I was gonna run 700 on the street? I know how fwd works, and 700 on the street is just stupid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">true. but look at his downpipe. looks like a 3", maybe 2.5" and also a relatively stock intake manifold. if i was gonna run 3" charge piping, id be running an edlebrock intake manifold, 75mm throttle body or bigger, and a 4" downpipe. thats just me. ask your shop and see what they recommend, especially cuz a 700whp daily driver isnt really possible. i mean if youre rich and can afford c16 to fill your tank, then thats cool and more power to you, but id say youre looking more around 450whp daily and youll stick eat almost anything out there for lunch</TD></TR></TABLE>
3 flared to a 3.5"dump. The intake is completeley gutted, and ported, has more volume than most sheetmetal intakes. 90mm throttle body. Will be tuned on E85 and methanol injected. And my garage is "my shop" I do everything except engine internals. The picture I posted is old, it is just used as a template for my diagram of piping. It seems like H-T threads completely drift away from the OP and end up of a completely different topic.
Who said I was gonna run 700 on the street? I know how fwd works, and 700 on the street is just stupid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">true. but look at his downpipe. looks like a 3", maybe 2.5" and also a relatively stock intake manifold. if i was gonna run 3" charge piping, id be running an edlebrock intake manifold, 75mm throttle body or bigger, and a 4" downpipe. thats just me. ask your shop and see what they recommend, especially cuz a 700whp daily driver isnt really possible. i mean if youre rich and can afford c16 to fill your tank, then thats cool and more power to you, but id say youre looking more around 450whp daily and youll stick eat almost anything out there for lunch</TD></TR></TABLE>
3 flared to a 3.5"dump. The intake is completeley gutted, and ported, has more volume than most sheetmetal intakes. 90mm throttle body. Will be tuned on E85 and methanol injected. And my garage is "my shop" I do everything except engine internals. The picture I posted is old, it is just used as a template for my diagram of piping. It seems like H-T threads completely drift away from the OP and end up of a completely different topic.
01-04-2007, 09:28 PM
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Re: (zeimbo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
id be running an edlebrock intake manifold, </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's an H22, Edelbrock doesn't even make an IM for it.
On topic, the less piping you have, the better.
id be running an edlebrock intake manifold, </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's an H22, Edelbrock doesn't even make an IM for it.
On topic, the less piping you have, the better.
01-04-2007, 10:40 PM
#15
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Re: (zeimbo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
true. but look at his downpipe. looks like a 3", maybe 2.5" and also a relatively stock intake manifold. if i was gonna run 3" charge piping, id be running an edlebrock intake manifold, 75mm throttle body or bigger, and a 4" downpipe. thats just me. ask your shop and see what they recommend, especially cuz a 700whp daily driver isnt really possible. i mean if youre rich and can afford c16 to fill your tank, then thats cool and more power to you, but id say youre looking more around 450whp daily and youll stick eat almost anything out there for lunch</TD></TR></TABLE>
He knows what he's doing, and has a goal of 700whp. Nothing wrong with that. Although I'm not sure if the 35R will be enough to get to 700whp with the torque monster H22, but it will still be very close. With the right supporting parts in place, he should be able to get there.
Have you thought about cams at all man? I think a fairly aggressive cam will help things out a lot.
true. but look at his downpipe. looks like a 3", maybe 2.5" and also a relatively stock intake manifold. if i was gonna run 3" charge piping, id be running an edlebrock intake manifold, 75mm throttle body or bigger, and a 4" downpipe. thats just me. ask your shop and see what they recommend, especially cuz a 700whp daily driver isnt really possible. i mean if youre rich and can afford c16 to fill your tank, then thats cool and more power to you, but id say youre looking more around 450whp daily and youll stick eat almost anything out there for lunch</TD></TR></TABLE>
He knows what he's doing, and has a goal of 700whp. Nothing wrong with that. Although I'm not sure if the 35R will be enough to get to 700whp with the torque monster H22, but it will still be very close. With the right supporting parts in place, he should be able to get there.
Have you thought about cams at all man? I think a fairly aggressive cam will help things out a lot.
01-05-2007, 05:59 AM
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Re: (Boostwerks.com)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He knows what he's doing, and has a goal of 700whp. Nothing wrong with that. Although I'm not sure if the 35R will be enough to get to 700whp with the torque monster H22, but it will still be very close. With the right supporting parts in place, he should be able to get there.
Have you thought about cams at all man? I think a fairly aggressive cam will help things out a lot. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I have seen b-series with the T3 35r make mid to high 600's, so I am hoping that with the T4 housing I might be able to hit that 700 mark, I also have built the setup to where I wont have to upgrade too much if I decide to go 40R series later on. As far as cams go, I just want to see what I can make with the stockers for start, then I will be trying out some different combos to see what will work the best, its just I want to make the first startup/tune as simple as possible, because I already have so many new variables right now, that it will be a blessing if the car even starts without a ton of problems lol. But I deffinatley have looked into cams, and want to experiment with them later on, because as you said I am sure it will help out alot. OT- Arn't you sick of this snow Bryson, no wonder my car sits in the gargae, its too damn cold to work on it lol.
Have you thought about cams at all man? I think a fairly aggressive cam will help things out a lot.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I have seen b-series with the T3 35r make mid to high 600's, so I am hoping that with the T4 housing I might be able to hit that 700 mark, I also have built the setup to where I wont have to upgrade too much if I decide to go 40R series later on. As far as cams go, I just want to see what I can make with the stockers for start, then I will be trying out some different combos to see what will work the best, its just I want to make the first startup/tune as simple as possible, because I already have so many new variables right now, that it will be a blessing if the car even starts without a ton of problems lol. But I deffinatley have looked into cams, and want to experiment with them later on, because as you said I am sure it will help out alot. OT- Arn't you sick of this snow Bryson, no wonder my car sits in the gargae, its too damn cold to work on it lol.
01-05-2007, 06:17 AM
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Re: (BB6-213)
I wouldn't do a 5" thick core, you'll probably have overheating problems due to airflow not making it through the core to get to the radiator.
01-05-2007, 07:11 AM
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Not to get off topic, but has anyone ever thought to put a velocity stack inside the endtank where it transitions into the IC piping as it exits the core? I wonder if it would allow for better flow of the incoming air..
01-05-2007, 07:16 AM
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Re: (tony1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't do a 5" thick core, you'll probably have overheating problems due to airflow not making it through the core to get to the radiator. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I think I am gonna go with the 4" core, I was thinking the same about the 5" blocking rad etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ELSpool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to get off topic, but has anyone ever thought to put a velocity stack inside the endtank where it transitions into the IC piping as it exits the core? I wonder if it would allow for better flow of the incoming air..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im sure if anyone knows it would be Tony ^^^
Yeah, I think I am gonna go with the 4" core, I was thinking the same about the 5" blocking rad etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ELSpool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to get off topic, but has anyone ever thought to put a velocity stack inside the endtank where it transitions into the IC piping as it exits the core? I wonder if it would allow for better flow of the incoming air..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im sure if anyone knows it would be Tony ^^^
01-05-2007, 12:52 PM
#22
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Re: (BB6-213)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB6-213 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have seen b-series with the T3 35r make mid to high 600's, so I am hoping that with the T4 housing I might be able to hit that 700 mark, I also have built the setup to where I wont have to upgrade too much if I decide to go 40R series later on. As far as cams go, I just want to see what I can make with the stockers for start, then I will be trying out some different combos to see what will work the best, its just I want to make the first startup/tune as simple as possible, because I already have so many new variables right now, that it will be a blessing if the car even starts without a ton of problems lol. But I deffinatley have looked into cams, and want to experiment with them later on, because as you said I am sure it will help out alot. OT- Arn't you sick of this snow Bryson, no wonder my car sits in the gargae, its too damn cold to work on it lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That sounds like a great plan! Might as well try what you already have before getting something you don't need.
I'm hoping I'll have enough $ saved up before spring that I'll be able to buy some rocket motorsports M24 cams to try out. I figure since I have the head already built, I might as well try them out.
But yes this snow SUCKS! It's been horrible sitting in my garage trying to finish up some manifolds. I got some nice insulated cover alls for christmas that help a lot though.
I have seen b-series with the T3 35r make mid to high 600's, so I am hoping that with the T4 housing I might be able to hit that 700 mark, I also have built the setup to where I wont have to upgrade too much if I decide to go 40R series later on. As far as cams go, I just want to see what I can make with the stockers for start, then I will be trying out some different combos to see what will work the best, its just I want to make the first startup/tune as simple as possible, because I already have so many new variables right now, that it will be a blessing if the car even starts without a ton of problems lol. But I deffinatley have looked into cams, and want to experiment with them later on, because as you said I am sure it will help out alot. OT- Arn't you sick of this snow Bryson, no wonder my car sits in the gargae, its too damn cold to work on it lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That sounds like a great plan! Might as well try what you already have before getting something you don't need.
I'm hoping I'll have enough $ saved up before spring that I'll be able to buy some rocket motorsports M24 cams to try out. I figure since I have the head already built, I might as well try them out.
But yes this snow SUCKS! It's been horrible sitting in my garage trying to finish up some manifolds. I got some nice insulated cover alls for christmas that help a lot though.
01-05-2007, 01:32 PM
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Re: (Boostwerks.com)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That sounds like a great plan! Might as well try what you already have before getting something you don't need.
I'm hoping I'll have enough $ saved up before spring that I'll be able to buy some rocket motorsports M24 cams to try out. I figure since I have the head already built, I might as well try them out.
But yes this snow SUCKS! It's been horrible sitting in my garage trying to finish up some manifolds. I got some nice insulated cover alls for christmas that help a lot though. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I really think I can make some good usable power with the 35r/t4. Those RM M24's are the exact cams I wanted to try, the seem to be tough, and have made great power when dialed in, and especially with a built head! Let me know if you get bored this weekend because I would love to come over and see how the car is coming.
That sounds like a great plan! Might as well try what you already have before getting something you don't need.
I'm hoping I'll have enough $ saved up before spring that I'll be able to buy some rocket motorsports M24 cams to try out. I figure since I have the head already built, I might as well try them out.
But yes this snow SUCKS! It's been horrible sitting in my garage trying to finish up some manifolds. I got some nice insulated cover alls for christmas that help a lot though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah I really think I can make some good usable power with the 35r/t4. Those RM M24's are the exact cams I wanted to try, the seem to be tough, and have made great power when dialed in, and especially with a built head! Let me know if you get bored this weekend because I would love to come over and see how the car is coming.
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