Intake Manifold Question
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Intake Manifold Question
My setup is a stock b16 with a Turbonetics T3/T3 turbo. Just wondering what Intake Manifolds you guys run, prefer, yata yata! Also when you upgrade the manifold do you have to upgrade the throttle body! Im looking to make 280 to 300 WHP! Im now making 220 WHP and 148 TQ on 7 pounds tuned with chrome by RLZ! Really good tune but im looking forward to run more boost and I was just wondering some way s to gain some extra HP and TQ! Sorry for asking gay noob questions but im a gay noob so thanks for the help in advance!
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Re: Intake Manifold Question (doood)
Howard at RLZ told me to only run 7 pounds because I have a stock block. How much psi do you think I could run safely. Any suggestions on a Intake Manifold!
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Re: Intake Manifold Question (Liloyo)
I ran my stock block at 16psi for 30,000 miles... dont worry bout how much psi, its about the HP that starts breaking stuff. Just make sure you have a good tune.
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#8
Man U FTW
315/216 on my stock block GSR @ 10psi....its been holding strong for 2 seasons
turn up the boost and leave your IM for now....if you're going to buy anything, a set of ITR cams would give you better bang for your buck than an IM
turn up the boost and leave your IM for now....if you're going to buy anything, a set of ITR cams would give you better bang for your buck than an IM
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Re:
On the contrary; HP does not kill stock blocks. Detonation does. The pinging causes the cylinder walls to oscillate and shift their position. You can run a good amount of boost just as long as you have aggressive knock control and conservative timing. A darn good tune is a given.
To answer your original question, a lot of people seem to have success with the Edelbrock Victor intake mani.
To answer your original question, a lot of people seem to have success with the Edelbrock Victor intake mani.
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Re: Re: (BrokenquestTSi)
Thanks alot guys for the good info! Im currently running a P06 Chrome chipped ECU. I think instead of an intake manifold im just gonna save up for Hondata! Also what do you mean by having an aggressive knock control. Also your saying to retard timing more than needed to be on the safe side, and to be more sure of not detonating, Right?
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Re: Re: (BrokenquestTSi)
Of course detonation kills, but HP does too. A stock honda motor can only take so much before the components inside just let do. A honda motor that was designed for 160 hp at the crank is not going to like alot more power. Period. Rods, ringlands, rodbolts, etc, can only take so much, even on a perfect tune.
You can crank up the boost all you want, but if the HP ain't rising, you're not doing anything but blowing hot air.
BTW: I wpouldn't worry about Hondata. It's overrated for a setup of your type.
Just get crome, that's what I plan on running. It's actually free software. Most tuners nowadays use it because of its ease of use and accessibility.
You can crank up the boost all you want, but if the HP ain't rising, you're not doing anything but blowing hot air.
BTW: I wpouldn't worry about Hondata. It's overrated for a setup of your type.
Just get crome, that's what I plan on running. It's actually free software. Most tuners nowadays use it because of its ease of use and accessibility.
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Re: Re: (Tippyman)
Ok... Sorry to confuse you guys! I already have put the turbo on the car like a month ago. It is tuned for 7 psi on the newest chrome sofware with a 8300 rev limiter, 8000 check engine shift, 4800 launch control, and a boost cut at 8.6 psi, and put down 219whp / 143tq! Im happy with the setup but i was wanting to get my numbers a little higher. Hoping to mabye get the whp to like 245-250 but mostly i wanted to get the tq around 200. I just dont want to spend another 250 to get it tuned once, when my buddy has a dyno and is very fimiliar with hondata. The thing is he dosent have the chrome software. I know that hondata is between 550 and 600 depending on where you send it but i think over all it would be a better purchase than just 1 retune with chrome and a 2 hr drive to NC for Howard to do it, when i could tune it daily on hondata 5 minutes from my house if neccessary!
Modified by Liloyo at 7:29 AM 9/26/2007
Modified by Liloyo at 7:30 AM 9/26/2007
Modified by Liloyo at 7:29 AM 9/26/2007
Modified by Liloyo at 7:30 AM 9/26/2007
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Re: (Schister66)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're going to buy anything, a set of ITR cams would give you better bang for your buck than an IM</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would have to totally disagree with you, especially if he has a log manifold! R cams are a huge wast of money for his setup IMO. If you wanted a cam upgrade, go for the GSR's. They are very cheap and have good gains over stock B16 cams with no cam adjustment needed. A good IM would do wonders, a TB is really is not needed with your goals. Get a JG if you have some cash to spend but if you are on a budget just ****** up an ITR/skunk/aebs/blox (there all pretty much the same) for about 100 less. You can find some great deals in the classifieds section of this site.
Changing you cams OR the IM would 100% most def require a re-tune!
Oh, and don't run 16psi like that other guy. Stick with a 10-12psi MAX.
I would have to totally disagree with you, especially if he has a log manifold! R cams are a huge wast of money for his setup IMO. If you wanted a cam upgrade, go for the GSR's. They are very cheap and have good gains over stock B16 cams with no cam adjustment needed. A good IM would do wonders, a TB is really is not needed with your goals. Get a JG if you have some cash to spend but if you are on a budget just ****** up an ITR/skunk/aebs/blox (there all pretty much the same) for about 100 less. You can find some great deals in the classifieds section of this site.
Changing you cams OR the IM would 100% most def require a re-tune!
Oh, and don't run 16psi like that other guy. Stick with a 10-12psi MAX.
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Re: (White Smoke)
I think you have a few valid points...i didnt notice the log manifold until you mentioned it. A set of GSR cams would help out over the B16 cams, but since you run a log, there's really no point to get ITRs just yet. Also, i switched IM's before i turboed so i can't tell you what the difference was....
My next move is a set of ITR cams and a bigger TB....it WILL help, but i'm not sure how much yet
My next move is a set of ITR cams and a bigger TB....it WILL help, but i'm not sure how much yet
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Re: (Schister66)
Sounds good. I heard that when you buy shunk 2 cams that you have to change out the springs and retainers. Would this be nessesary with factory gsr cams? Also if not my buddy has a set of gsr cams in a b16 head that he is trying to sell, and he would prolly trade or mabye a trade with some cash! Thanks again for the help!
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Re: (Liloyo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liloyo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds good. I heard that when you buy shunk 2 cams that you have to change out the springs and retainers. Would this be nessesary with factory gsr cams? Also if not my buddy has a set of gsr cams in a b16 head that he is trying to sell, and he would prolly trade or mabye a trade with some cash! Thanks again for the help!</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can keep stock valvetrain with GSR or ITR cams as long as you keep the stock rev limit. See if your buddy will trade you + like 30$ cash
You can keep stock valvetrain with GSR or ITR cams as long as you keep the stock rev limit. See if your buddy will trade you + like 30$ cash
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