instantly warm??
h22 motor-
well i installed a new slim fan and flush out the cooling system when i was at it and now the car runs kinda hot. after i leave the car off for after driving about an hour turn it on and its almost fully warmed already... it never did this before. from there it'll reach normal temps in less than a mintute!
while driving for a while it will rise above the first "squilly line" and almost go over the 2nd one and then go down back to normal.
i was kinda nervous so i drove around with the heater on most of the way. BUT it never actually overheated
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From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
"Common over heat problems
T-Stat---usually it is because of this piece of **** that you overheat.
Bubbles in cooling system. 2nd biggest reason, you didn't bleed enough, you have to leave the car idling for like a half hour to get all the bubbles out with the heater on.
Rad Cap is bad--wont hold pressure.
Leaking coolant somewhere---this can happen only at WOT and not at idle so its hard to find sometimes.
Make sure you fan is coming on. I wired mine to stay on always when car is on.
Worst case scenario is headgasket is leaking exhaust gas into coolant system. You can sometimes see this if you look in your rad resevior and see bubbles coming up."
as others said, sounds like air pocket or bad t-stat. To bleed the system, leave the rad cap off and let the car warm up and idle with the rad cap off. Hell, I even unplug the fan so it will get hotter quicker, then eventually plug it back in.
Let it idle for like a half hour, that should get the air bubbles out. If its a GSR, there is also a bleed screw right by the vtec solenoid you can loosen some until the air stops coming out.
T-Stat---usually it is because of this piece of **** that you overheat.
Bubbles in cooling system. 2nd biggest reason, you didn't bleed enough, you have to leave the car idling for like a half hour to get all the bubbles out with the heater on.
Rad Cap is bad--wont hold pressure.
Leaking coolant somewhere---this can happen only at WOT and not at idle so its hard to find sometimes.
Make sure you fan is coming on. I wired mine to stay on always when car is on.
Worst case scenario is headgasket is leaking exhaust gas into coolant system. You can sometimes see this if you look in your rad resevior and see bubbles coming up."
as others said, sounds like air pocket or bad t-stat. To bleed the system, leave the rad cap off and let the car warm up and idle with the rad cap off. Hell, I even unplug the fan so it will get hotter quicker, then eventually plug it back in.
Let it idle for like a half hour, that should get the air bubbles out. If its a GSR, there is also a bleed screw right by the vtec solenoid you can loosen some until the air stops coming out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"Common over heat problems
Leaking coolant somewhere---this can happen only at WOT and not at idle so its hard to find sometimes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good stuff...
A good place to check if you are leaking coolant is the heater core. Lift up your rug and see if the padding is wet.
Leaking coolant somewhere---this can happen only at WOT and not at idle so its hard to find sometimes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good stuff...
A good place to check if you are leaking coolant is the heater core. Lift up your rug and see if the padding is wet.
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I hate how theres 1 or 2 threads a day about overheating. 75% of them of them are always after the coolant system has been flushed and the answer is always air! This is so common its even in the FAQ!
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From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
Muckman, I agree, I just started copy+paste my paragraph about common problems over and over and over........
I gotta remembe to add the head lifting one too, I always forget and post it seperately.
I guess many just don't realize how long it actually takes to get all the bubbles out of the coolant.
I gotta remembe to add the head lifting one too, I always forget and post it seperately.
I guess many just don't realize how long it actually takes to get all the bubbles out of the coolant.
^^^ **** when I had to bleed my system with the Mazier water pump I want to say it took up about 30 mins or more to get all the bubbles out....... I guess alot of people out there dont relize that it takes time to do everything the right way so they just half *** everything and then wonder why they are having problems
turns out i had my aftermarket fan wired up the wrong way. it was blowing on the radiator instead of into the engine bay. could that alone cause the "semi-overheating" or did other factors like air bubbles played a roll?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suxway »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">turns out i had my aftermarket fan wired up the wrong way. it was blowing on the radiator instead of into the engine bay. could that alone cause the "semi-overheating" or did other factors like air bubbles played a roll?</TD></TR></TABLE>
even without a fan running, it shouldn't instantly heat up...
however having the fan pushing air into the radiator in a pull config is something u should definately fix
even without a fan running, it shouldn't instantly heat up...
however having the fan pushing air into the radiator in a pull config is something u should definately fix
could be both.... but rewire your fan then if it keeps on then replace the cap and rebleed the coolent system.... I dont think it is the therm just because if it was stuck closed then it would over heat for sure not just a little bit
edit: is it heating up really fast or is it just running a little warmer than normal? because if its heating up really fast then you have a pockete of air around the sleeves
edit: is it heating up really fast or is it just running a little warmer than normal? because if its heating up really fast then you have a pockete of air around the sleeves
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From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
Let me understand, you drive the car some and then park it for an hour. Once you come back and start it up, the car is almost up to operating temp? Is this correct?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let me understand, you drive the car some and then park it for an hour. Once you come back and start it up, the car is almost up to operating temp? Is this correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its a little more than half way to normal operating temps. and from there it doesnt take long to reach the normal temps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedEG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
edit: is it heating up really fast or is it just running a little warmer than normal? because if its heating up really fast then you have a pockete of air around the sleeves</TD></TR></TABLE>
during start up or driving? start up it doesnt take long for it to get to normal operating temps. driving it barely goes over the first squilly lines and then will fall back after a min.
its a little more than half way to normal operating temps. and from there it doesnt take long to reach the normal temps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedEG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
edit: is it heating up really fast or is it just running a little warmer than normal? because if its heating up really fast then you have a pockete of air around the sleeves</TD></TR></TABLE>
during start up or driving? start up it doesnt take long for it to get to normal operating temps. driving it barely goes over the first squilly lines and then will fall back after a min.
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From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
so fix the fan, bleed the system and then tell us if you still have the problem.
Sometimes when your car is warming up, the temp gauge may start to go past where it normally sits, then the t-stat opens and then temp goes back down.
Sometimes when your car is warming up, the temp gauge may start to go past where it normally sits, then the t-stat opens and then temp goes back down.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so fix the fan, bleed the system and then tell us if you still have the problem.
Sometimes when your car is warming up, the temp gauge may start to go past where it normally sits, then the t-stat opens and then temp goes back down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it never happens when it warming up, only when crusing. the only problem with warming up is that its doing it way to quick
Sometimes when your car is warming up, the temp gauge may start to go past where it normally sits, then the t-stat opens and then temp goes back down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it never happens when it warming up, only when crusing. the only problem with warming up is that its doing it way to quick
turn your car on, pop your hood, and play with the throttle from inside the engine bay, rev it a coupel times and see if you happen to hav any smoke coming from anwwhere, this might happen due to the fact that oen of your coolant lines could be worn and dripping coolant on to the block which makes the coolant dissiptate. another thing you might want to check is if you isntalled the slimfan correctly, make sure that the fan is not blowing towards your radiator (push) but its blowing towards your engine (pull).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITSME4G63 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">turn your car on, pop your hood, and play with the throttle from inside the engine bay, rev it a coupel times and see if you happen to hav any smoke coming from anwwhere, this might happen due to the fact that oen of your coolant lines could be worn and dripping coolant on to the block which makes the coolant dissiptate. another thing you might want to check is if you isntalled the slimfan correctly, make sure that the fan is not blowing towards your radiator (push) but its blowing towards your engine (pull).</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah im sure its blowing towards the engine, i put a piece of paper in front of the radiator and it was being sucked onto the radiator. and i put a piece of paper behind the fan and it was blowing it away instead of sucking it in
yeah im sure its blowing towards the engine, i put a piece of paper in front of the radiator and it was being sucked onto the radiator. and i put a piece of paper behind the fan and it was blowing it away instead of sucking it in
you didnt use that orange coolant now did you? thats for gm cars only, we use the green ****. When you did your coolant flush, did you use 50% water and 50% coolant or did you jsut use 100% coolant? remember, teh coolant is basically there to stop the water from freezing in cold weather.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITSME4G63 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you didnt use that orange coolant now did you? thats for gm cars only, we use the green ****. When you did your coolant flush, did you use 50% water and 50% coolant or did you jsut use 100% coolant? remember, teh coolant is basically there to stop the water from freezing in cold weather.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i used the right antifreeze. 60%water, 40%antifreeze.


