Hi!

I bought a set of Pro1's November 2018, and I'm about to install it. I know I should degree them, but I'm not able to do that, and also my friend, who can, dont have time, and I need the car running.

In my search I found this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...EWoF6fanupg35A

In there is a link were someone is claiming that later generation cams are ment be set at 0. Is this True? Or should I follow the +1.5/+2 setup?

Some spec:
B18c with benson sleeves
84x89
CP pistons
Pauter X rod
B18c6 head
Ferrea valve train with stock size valves

 

there is no correct answer without doing the cam degreeing unfortunately, every engine is different. If I had put my pro 1 cams in without doing the degree work I probably would have damaged valves and it never would have performed correctly. I personally would advise learning how to do it right and take the time to do it as I did. The last time I did mine it took around 4 hours start to finish. The worse part is you must lock vtec to be able to perform this task

 

Agreed with above. Unlike some of the Tuner series, the Pro Series do not have "Quick Settings", as every engine is different to where having the engine degree'd is best for you. sorry.

 

I think the last series pro 1 they don’t need to degree.

 

Some like to live life dangerously.

 

those cams could cause damage or a loss of power without being done properly.... like you said, some people live dangerously and will never get the money they spent to perform

 

All cams should be degreed for proper operation and maximum performance. Every engine is different.

 

Guys I mean that you can put it at 0 places

 

Yes, you CAN set the cam gears simply to 0/0. But this doesn't make the settings correct. There are too many factors that alter the cam to crank relationship, and degreeing the cams makes up for all of these variables. If you want it right... you gotta DO IT RIGHT.

 

exaxtly. 0 isn’t 0 anymore with the new cams

 

Yes, zero isn't zero anymore if you have done ANY of the following: Milled the head, sleeved the block, decked the block, replaced the timing belt, replaced the tensioner, replaced the camshafts, installed aftermarket cam gears, replaced the head gasket, used a thicker or thinner head gasket, line bored/honed the crank main journals, line bored/honed the cam journals and even lastly, having a worn or stretched timing belt.

 

I got the cams degreed

 

smart move