JonnySBeee...

im thinking about spraying not too much just a small amount, but not too small. haha....in other words a good amount but the most important thing i care about is it being SAFE!!! i need some absic info about nitrious, i honestly dont know much about it, dry, wet, direct. anyone of that. i was looking at a universal kit by NOS for starters. what is the point of heating the bottle? just gimme anything you know about nitrious. like i said im looking for a basic kit but i want it to be safe. also one last question, how do i activate it once i ahve nitrious? sorry for the newbie question. flames are very welcome

200cs

I have had it on several cars...it is a great way to locate any weak parts in your set-up. I used it on some old school carbed V8's and it worked well for a while and then it takes its toll on the internals. I purchased my 2000 ITR from a family member who had blown the engine using a ZEX dry kit. Even the mighty B15C5 with cast pistons cannot hold up to it. I rebuilt using Wiseco forged pistons and sold the ZEX kit. After all of that, here is some info if you are still interested:

Wet kits are the old style that typically mount under a carb and spray the nos and fuel directly into the intake. You can also get fogger nozzles that do the same thing into each intake runner.

Dry kits use your fuel system and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to add fuel and the controller box then adds the correct amount of nos to the system to increase power. These work great however, one small malfunction will cost you an engine.

An EGT gauge is a must as well as a fuel pressure gauge.

You might want to consider going with a turbo or supercharger set-up as both of them seems to give much better performance and longevity as compared to spray. I will never use it again but thats just me. Good luck.

turboeg_4

I think that the bottle is good option... it gives you the most horsepower for you buck!! I used a 75 shot on a 1.6 SOHC Vtec and had no problems.. although I only had it for about a year. A buddy of mine had his longer and the only thing that got messed up was his cat. Nitrous can mess up your car but if used properly and respectfully you should be fine.

There are two ways of using it... you can either go with a button or have it hooked up to your throttle. The button is cool, especially if you have one of those nifty steering wheels with the nitrous button but from my experiece, the button usually gives about a second delay. The throttle switch hooks up inside the hood and is activated one you hit wide open throttle (WOT).

The bottle is kept warm so that everything is at optimal performance level. If the bottle is used too long it starts to get cold and thats bad since it messes up the spray. If you ever used a CO2 spray can and sprayed for a long time the bottle gets cold and it doesn't spray as good.

A wet system combines fuel and nitrous before getting into the chambers. It is usually hooked up before the throttle body. A dry set up pushed only nirous through the lines and hooked up directly to you intake manifold. A dry setup is more costly than a wet set up and requires some drilling or a new intake manifold that is ready for a nitrous set up. (I think that edelbrock makes one.. not sure though)

Some benefits: -you don't have to be one bottle all the time.
-cheap horsepower
Some cons: -if you use it too much... it can get expensive (i think its about $30/fill)
-easy to blow up... get trigger happy and you hold it too long... peace

hope you find some of this helpful... sorry so long

respectblades

my advice
its not how you stand by your car ..
its how you race your car

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Buy a 50 shot wet kit with a bottle heater. It's the best bang for the buck for an entry level speed freak IMO.

JonnySBeee...

ok now with some of the info u guys have given me, im gonna look for

50 shot with bottle heater activated by a push button. any kits out there that have that in a kit. also with the button activation, how long will it be spraying, remember i want to be safe and i will sacrifice power for safety.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Just use the full throttle microswitch that comes with the kit instead of the dash mount push button for activation.

JonnySBeee...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just use the full throttle microswitch that comes with the kit instead of the dash mount push button for activation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but for instance, if i am racing, im always at WOT so ill be spraying the whole time. isnt that bad. plus i have a heavy foot so im at WOT at least once a day i only wanna spray wen i wanna get a small kick

DaX

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonny05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but for instance, if i am racing, im always at WOT so ill be spraying the whole time. isnt that bad. plus i have a heavy foot so im at WOT at least once a day i only wanna spray wen i wanna get a small kick</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's why you have an arming switch on your dash...so that you can 'disarm' the system when you don't want to spray, which means you can go to WOT and not spray.

If you're racing and you're at WOT, this is where you want to spray nitrous. How long are you at WOT? Not more than about 15 seconds I'd hope. You'll be fine with the WOT microswitch on your TB. The hand activation is just too much to do...you've got to hold onto the button while trying to hold onto the wheel and shift...

JonnySBeee...

so you think 15 seconds spraying on a f22b2 motor will be alright, jsut to be safe, what internals should i upgrade to handle it more safetly

DaX

iTrader: (1)

If you want to be really safe about it, I would recommend at least upgrading pistons...but don't F & H series motors have that nikasil coating on the cylinder walls? You'll either have to find special pistons/rings that will work with that coating, or you'll have to sleeve. While you're at it you may as well throw in some rods.

All that is really too much trouble just to run some nitrous...I'd just stick with stock internals.

Another route to safety would be to get Hondata or some other EMS that can control the nitrous for you and then have your setup tuned specifically for nitrous.