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this is a classic one...

i had cracked a sleeve bk in aug last yr..i sent the block to be resleeved but for some unknown reason the idots at the machine shop only resleeved the one damage cylinder and polished the rest and sent it back(yep i got robed)

anyhow take my block to my mechanic and ask him to rebuild it...told him i have a dead line caz i wana race the engine soon..he starts arguing with me and tells me that my engine dosnt need more than 50 miles break b4 we put power on it.he claims that its only one cylinder thats needs to be broken in ,,and gives me a long *** story about what you guys do in America where they race for 24 hours and the cars use new engine and they dont break those inn..

we put in bran new pistons and rings acl bearings ect..

i have been in this for a while and i know alot better not to put power on my new block especially with a precision 6262 turbo..

does my mechanic know something i dont or should i find a new one?

coneheadsracing

There's all kinds of opinions on this. What was the big deal on only getting your bad sleeve done? Are you suppose to do them all at once. Also, i'm sorry but telling your mechanic your on a deadline so you can race the engine soon, totally made me think Fast and Furious....... Personaly, on the two engines i've done, i start putting power to it right away. The only time i took it easy for a bit was when i had a brand new clutch, even then i didn't go many miles before high boost. There are so called tricks to build engines for quick break ins, i don't know if they work any better or worse, or if anyone really does. So, imo your mechanic seems fine to me.

cjordan

iTrader: (1)

mine started up for the first time on the dyno... was making 15 psi pulls only a short time later...

SovXietday

Putting power to the engine right away is pretty much the new standard, lol.

boostedcivicsir

question, what did you pay to have the block sleeved? were you specific enough to tell them you wanted the whole block iron sleeved? is this machine shop compitent enough to complete the job? im playing devils advocate. thats all.

on the break in. my car, fired it up, fan came on. shut it off, put it on the trailer. went to the dyno. started making power pulls.

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http://www.dartonsleeves.com/break_in.htm

so are you guys saying that i should disregard what ppl like these have to say?

dc4turbo12

i was easy on mine for the first 1,000 miles and made sure my rings sat and my compression numbers were at 180 across the board. ive heard break in on the dyno and to baby it till everything is seated. I just felt more comfortable waiting. plus the longer you wait the more exciting the end result!

boostedcivicsir

it is completely up to you. my car isnt street legal and a 1000 mile break in is out of the question.

i have done the 1000 rpms for 10 minutes, 10 minutes off, 2000 rpms for 10 mintes, 10 minutes off 2500 rpms for 10 minutes then change the oil. bu thats for a v style engine that needs oil to be splashed onto the cam.

all the old heads that raced around me " break it in like you are going to drive it"

a daily yes you should be nice to it for a while.

i just gave a for instance on my car. it doesnt burn a lick of oil, runs great and is over 3 years old. head has been off once for a head gasket issue.

fatboy803

I am in the middle of building my engine. I talked to RLZ in charlotte about tuning my car told him that i wanted to build the engine then run/break it in the turbo/tune it and he said that i could hurt my engine by being out of tune for the pistons. So if your running diffrent compression you might want to think about that.

fatboy803

sorry run/break in then turbo/tune

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thanks for the input guys..i do my own tuning so fuel and ign is not a problem.i also broken in two engine before but never put serious power on then within 20km like the guys above stated they have done..

sorry to say that i have seen cars blow engines because the builder just finished his car and wanted to show off a few hours later..am not sure if it was a issue with the engine ,tuning problem or both...

i have began breaking in my engine and am not planning to put any pressure on it until i pass 150km...where i live its 80%hills so that should speed up the process.

bartman360

Here is something to ponder. I am a ASE Master Tech and also hold a A&P Certificate issued by the FAA to work on aircraft. I have personally built and have been around fresh engines that are too numerous to count. I have never seen any catastrophic damage done to an engine due to too much power applied to a new engine after a few complete thermal cycles. So to further my theory, in piston driven aircraft when a fresh overhaul has been completed it gets thermal cycled a few times and then you go fly the thing. Trust me there is no such thing as a part power take off and climb, were talking full power. Kinda makes you think a bit. The highest maintenance standards known and the least amount of catastrophic engine failures from engines ran at full throttle with little or no break in.

HiProfile

The main thing that makes these motors different is the honing recommendations and the rings. They are relatively low tension rings compared to most engines, meaning Honda wants a different honing finish than most engines. You hone it with a medium hone, then do a light pass with a fine hone to get a plateau finish. THis requires less milage to seat the rings. The WOT theory helps seat them even faster, since aftermarket pistons are designed increase ring pressure with cylinder pressure. One reason people will take it easy before seating the rings is because gasoline mixed in oil causes lube problems, and exhaust gasses in the oil cause corrosion problems. That's another reason a fresh motor should get an oil change soon.

I recommend working out a conservatively tuned basemap and do some WOT pulls - preferably w/o the turbo (much less break-in tuning). 5-6k redline for this so-called break in period, then tune it to satisfaction. I've dealt mostly with building V8's, and eveyone I've known that was also involved with it broke them in on the track or in the "back 40". They just made sure the carb jetting (afr's) was correct before the initial thrashing. Since I got to see the lap timing data for many of the cars, it wasn't hard to see when a fresh motor really started to seat the rings. It was like they gained a liter of displacement between start & finish.



To make a long story short, if you don't trust your mechanic, do it your self (trial & error) or find someone you can trust.



BTW I think he was a tool for doing just one sleeve. That was probably more costly than a donor shortblock, and it can crack a sleeve just as easily.