I wanted to ask this question after the dyno place send me the graph, but apparently they're not responding me so here somebody else's graph to give you an idea.
My set up is a crx with b18a, turboedit ecu, t3/t04oe, spearco fmic, 2.5 exhaust, dsm bluetops, walboro, delta wg and hks bov. I went to a dyno last saturday and was extremely disappointed, i made about 148 hp and around 180 for torque. My NKG nbr7es is gapped at .30. The problem is the apparent 148 hp, it was misfiring like mad resulting in the power fluxuating similiar to the above dyno but worse. We got the AF to be stable but no matter what we do to the ignition, same things would reoccour. I know it's is kinda vague without the graph but that's all i can do for now. I'm heading there again so I would like to get this fix before then. Here are some of the possibilities I can think of :
-Bad rotor and cap ( I replaced them after the dyno)
-Bad Ground
-I had to cut the two wire going on the coil before ( I had an MSD BTM) , then I have to reconnect them and maybe there connection is bad, i'm going to solder them tomorrow.
-Bad TurboEdit bin
-Bad plug gap

Any other ideas are welcome, i'm sorry for the long post but HT is my only hope. Thank you.

 

bump for some help.

 

why do you have the same dyno chart as LiquidxEG???

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=890934

is this some weaksauce troll thing or somethign?

 

hmmm .. good point- exact same dynograph... whats going on here??? liquidxEG has listed a different setup and car too so this isn't an issue of 1 person having 2 usernames .... someones lying .... but why?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LostCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wanted to ask this question after the dyno place send me the graph, but apparently they're not responding me so here somebody else's graph to give you an idea........</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is not my dyno.
I went up to 7psi by the way, any idead?

 

bump for desperate help.

 

how old r the plug wires?

i had ignition issues, changed rotor, cap and plugs, but nope.......changed the wires and presto! thought my wires were good for ever :D

 

What were your AFRs?

Did you try new plugs? If you run too rich on a set of plugs, then boost on them, you can burn the excess fuel into the plug. This is known as high speed glazing, and causes misfiring under boost when it's easier for the spark to short across the carbon deposited ceramic than across the plug gap. This is a common problem with cars that run the freeware boost applications on a basemap for any length of time - recurving for bigger injectors almost always leaves part throttle maps entirely too rich.

I would have hooked up a timing light to each plug wire when you had her loaded up on the dyno. It's a good way to see if power is passing thru the plug wire or shorting out before the plug in the cap/rotor/wire connection area. Keep in mind that if you are suffering from high speed glazing that the light won't strobe erratically when you misfire because the power passes the inductive pickup just fine - your misfire is taking place at the plug.

 

Well I'll be damned, I never knew that. So when they glaze over will it misfire badly like that everytime? What I'm wondering is if they'll effect you're A/F ratio at all if they're glazed over, and you get it tuned. Then pop in a new set of plugs that aren't glazed over, and you have a stronger spark causing it to run lean?

 

I really <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What were your AFRs?

Did you try new plugs? If you run too rich on a set of plugs, then boost on them, you can burn the excess fuel into the plug. This is known as high speed glazing, and causes misfiring under boost when it's easier for the spark to short across the carbon deposited ceramic than across the plug gap. This is a common problem with cars that run the freeware boost applications on a basemap for any length of time - recurving for bigger injectors almost always leaves part throttle maps entirely too rich.

I would have hooked up a timing light to each plug wire when you had her loaded up on the dyno. It's a good way to see if power is passing thru the plug wire or shorting out before the plug in the cap/rotor/wire connection area. Keep in mind that if you are suffering from high speed glazing that the light won't strobe erratically when you misfire because the power passes the inductive pickup just fine - your misfire is taking place at the plug. </TD></TR></TABLE> First I want to say I really appreciate this help. The AFR was at stock AFR, I did not have a chane to change my plug and I didn't even think about it, the result set me into brainfreeze mode. The glazing theory is a very possible, I'll look ito it.

 

Stock AFR? I'm not following.

 

Oh my mistake, for some reason I was thinking you were asking about my fuel pressure, that's what posting early in the morning do to you. But back to the topic, the AFR were between 11.5:1 to 12.5:1 at WOT, I wanted to run a bit rich until I figure everything out.

 

one last bump before hitting the dyno.

 

I went back to the dyno without any luck. I got new plugs, new cap and new rotor, I still can not determine what make the car miss so bad at top RPM. Please help.

 

the power is still too low for the setup, i came out with 170