My setup is hondata s200. Basically, outside temps has lowered by a lot and if i start my car after it has been sitting for hours, it will start and die right away unless i hold throttle for some time. And as it starts catching up rpm jump up/down until it starts to even out.

I had my car tuned in same type of weather if not cooler last winter and it was running fine. It made it fine through summer until it started to get cooler outside. I unpluged ecu.

On few occasions during summer i had jumping idle while at a stop. then it would go away as i continue to drive. any ideas?

 

Probably too lean, or rich. Play with your fueling table at low vacuum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coocoo32 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Probably too lean, or rich. Play with your fueling table at low vacuum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i don't have software to tune and don't want to mess with that stuff.

if fuel mapst don't change and i didn't change any settings (feul pressure/etc..)? if it ran started fine last year, what else could be the cause?

 

btw. car starts fine after it has been warmed up

 

If you are obd-1, most likely its your fast idle thermo valve underneath the throttle body. Overtime the mechanism backs out, and causes a vaccum leak. Irratic idle, hard starting in cold temperate and idle returning to normal once warmed up are symptoms of the fast idle thermo valve getting loose. Simply take off the fast idle assembly from the throttle body, turn the ends in clockwise direction to tighten it back up. Reassemble and start the car. The cold start and idle should return to normal assuming that it was loose in the first place. I am seeing this alot more with customers that come for tuning. Its an easy fix, but a headache if you dont know what is causing the issue. I actually switched out to a obd-2 gsr throttle body on my turbo set-up to eliminate the fast idle thermo valve (they dont have them).

 

thanks for advice, but in my case i'm obd2 itr, only things that are obd1 are injector clips and ecu.. is there anything else i could check?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't have software to tune and don't want to mess with that stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought the hondata was a tunable ecu, why dont you have the software to tune it?

 

try slapping in a new set of plugs

 

i'll give it a shot.. but doubt it will help becuase i change my spark plugs every other oil change and thats about every 4k miles.

 

what step colder plugs are you using btw?? I forgot to ask.

Khoi

 

bkr7e

 

any ideas on what could be causing this? its not as cold right now, so it starts and right away starts bouncing from 500-1000rpm until it catches within few seconds. ?

 

maybe running a little rich...this is just an idea...you may have to run a step hotter plug. If you have not tried putting a new set of bkr7's yet, try some bkre6's. In other words, if just a new set of bkr7s don't work..try the 6's.

Khoi

 

i replaced my plugs the other day, they looked normal. i don't want to risk running anything other than what my car was tuned with. is there anything else i could replace? the car starts fine at any other time, just the first start in the morning.

 

well..to be honest..i have the same problem. It's almost below freezing here in Oklahoma, and recently, whenever I start the car in the morning, the idle is really low. So I push in on the brake to give the engine a little bit more vaccum, so the idle will raise. Haven't really found out the problem, but its more than likely the fact that we are both running a little too rich.

BTW..I was tuned on bkr9's...i switched to 7s because my car would idle like crap with the 9s.

 

my car was also tuned w/ hondata s200b and i have some trouble starting the car after its sat in the garage all night or at the end of the day when im leaving for work.. i have to hold the throttle down a little until its warmed up and leveled like you were saying.. ossaciaonly when i cant wait for the car to warm up completly it will run really rich and i will see it comeing out of the exhaust and it stinks.. i remember some shop i talked to said something along the lines that this is almost normal for cars tuned w/ hondata once its gets colder outside..

 

Sohc Driver and TurboBumblBee.. do you have evap line unplugged or connector unplugged? because thats another problem with hondata at least on obd2 cars. i had low idle issue due to that, if you look inside engine bay, theres an evap line from fuel tank, you can unplug the connector right above IM, i've done that at first and idle is much sharper at all times. for some reason it opens right during startup and causing running rich, but my current issue is not from that, i also disconnected and plugged evap hose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboBumblBee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car was also tuned w/ hondata s200b and i have some trouble starting the car after its sat in the garage all night or at the end of the day when im leaving for work.. i have to hold the throttle down a little until its warmed up and leveled like you were saying.. ossaciaonly when i cant wait for the car to warm up completly it will run really rich and i will see it comeing out of the exhaust and it stinks.. i remember some shop i talked to said something along the lines that this is almost normal for cars tuned w/ hondata once its gets colder outside..</TD></TR></TABLE>

my 96 gsr with obd1 ecu does the same thing. i am runny open loop and just thought it was a tunning issue but as far a fuel/vac table the thing runs great once it gets to operating temp at any given vacum so what gives?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought the hondata was a tunable ecu, why dont you have the software to tune it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope you need to have the software and hardware to do that. It's no uberdata. It'll cost you more to do it yourself like that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are obd-1, most likely its your fast idle thermo valve underneath the throttle body. Overtime the mechanism backs out, and causes a vaccum leak. Irratic idle, hard starting in cold temperate and idle returning to normal once warmed up are symptoms of the fast idle thermo valve getting loose. Simply take off the fast idle assembly from the throttle body, turn the ends in clockwise direction to tighten it back up. Reassemble and start the car. The cold start and idle should return to normal assuming that it was loose in the first place. I am seeing this alot more with customers that come for tuning. Its an easy fix, but a headache if you dont know what is causing the issue. I actually switched out to a obd-2 gsr throttle body on my turbo set-up to eliminate the fast idle thermo valve (they dont have them).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn i wish I knew this much stuff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nope you need to have the software and hardware to do that. It's no uberdata. It'll cost you more to do it yourself like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Man am I glad I got an AEM EMS..

 

I have mine unplugged now...it seemed to help the problem a little bit

 

in my case, it helped once i unplugged the connector, but it got even better once i disconnected and plugged up the actual hose, i think it was still bypassing in my case..

but back to my problem, right now it doens't die, it starts but fluctuates from ~700-1200rpm for few seconds then it gets stable..

 

bump..

 

seems to me i have heard of this problem on obd2 cars and it was something like the idle air control valve? it is mounted on the back of the intake and can get stuck. you can unbolt it from the intake and clean all the gunk out of it and it might free it up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quickergixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seems to me i have heard of this problem on obd2 cars and it was something like the idle air control valve? it is mounted on the back of the intake and can get stuck. you can unbolt it from the intake and clean all the gunk out of it and it might free it up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, will give it a try