PrecisionH23a

In goes the hondata ready converted p28 ecu. The fuel pump does not cut on when the key is turned to ign 2.

Out goes the ecu... and in goes the stocker. The fuel pump primes and pressure is established in the rail.

Any quick fixes or is the ecu toast?

therealPROJEKTEG

have you tried a different chip in the ecu? there should be a little jumper in front of the socket where the chip is, at 'j1'. cut that and it will return the ecu to stock, if it primes then, you know it's either a bad chip, or bad soldering and can easily be fixed, if it still doesn't work, the ecu is more than likely fried.

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by therealPROJEKTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you tried a different chip in the ecu? there should be a little jumper in front of the socket where the chip is, at 'j1'. cut that and it will return the ecu to stock, if it primes then, you know it's either a bad chip, or bad soldering and can easily be fixed, if it still doesn't work, the ecu is more than likely fried.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is more than likely the big *** capacitor. Doubt it is bad soldering.

boomslang

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In goes the hondata ready converted p28 ecu. The fuel pump does not cut on when the key is turned to ign 2. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it one of the P28s that is converted to an OBD2 plug style?

If so, there was a fix out for the OBD2B style ones involving the fuel pump wiring. Specifically jumping OBD2B pins A15 and A16 together.

PrecisionH23a

It is a converted p06 ecu... so it is now technically a 'p28.'

I'm running one of your conversion harnesses by the way, hehe. 2001 Prelude.

scttydb411

if you're obd2 originally you'll have to do the fuel pump fix by moving some wires in the harness.

boostedblack99

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In goes the hondata ready converted p28 ecu. The fuel pump does not cut on when the key is turned to ign 2.

Out goes the ecu... and in goes the stocker. The fuel pump primes and pressure is established in the rail.

Any quick fixes or is the ecu toast? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i am having this identical problem on a customers car right now. Hers the thing it ran once on it and now it wont prime the fuel pump...someone please help...the ECU was brand new directly from Hondata....last resort i will send it back but i dont want to do that if i can fix it myself...any help im all ears as well

boomslang

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scttydb411 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're obd2 originally you'll have to do the fuel pump fix by moving some wires in the harness.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The conversion harness takes care of that.

PrecisionH23a

I'm returning the ecu, it's bad. I got a virgin p28 this morning and socketed it.

Everything works.

BlackCRX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by therealPROJEKTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you tried a different chip in the ecu? there should be a little jumper in front of the socket where the chip is, at 'j1'. cut that and it will return the ecu to stock, if it primes then, you know it's either a bad chip, or bad soldering and can easily be fixed, if it still doesn't work, the ecu is more than likely fried.</TD></TR></TABLE>

with a bad chip/bin the car should still run in limp mode

therealPROJEKTEG

this thread is even more proof that hondata sucks. support your local ecu chippers, we own hondata

here's some of my work

PrecisionH23a

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by therealPROJEKTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this thread is even more proof that hondata sucks. support your local ecu chippers, we own hondata

here's some of my work
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did not get the ECU from hondata, therefore you cannot say they suck. It was a guy from this board. I chip my own ecu's as well, I got this one for a decent price so I figured I would save my customer a bit of money as well as myself some time. Yea right, lol.

By the way, when you show off your work you need to show it from the bottom of the circuit board. That's how you separate the men from the boys, hehe.

EnzoSpeed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It is more than likely the big *** capacitor. Doubt it is bad soldering. </TD></TR></TABLE>


This guy knows his ****. I've seen those CAPs go out so many times it's not even funny.

Replace the cap and the ECU will be fine.

therealPROJEKTEG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
By the way, when you show off your work you need to show it from the bottom of the circuit board. That's how you separate the men from the boys, hehe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree and disagree with that. not trying to start static, just pointing out my personal opinion here as an electronics guy anybody that can half way solder and has any experience at all can make nice joints on the bottom of the pcb and make it look pretty, hell, with my hakko, you can't even tell the board didn't come desoldered from the factory, the real trick is making sure the solder goes all the way through and you have no cold joints, that's why i always look at the top first.

edit: also, my comment about the hondata ecu was uncalled for, i misread your first post, i thought it said "hondata converted p28" and just reread and saw it said "hondata 'ready' p28". sorry

2point2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">By the way, when you show off your work you need to show it from the bottom of the circuit board. That's how you separate the men from the boys, hehe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so true..

GOLDBERG

how did everyone learn how to chip/socket ecu's? i wanna learn

therealPROJEKTEG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so true..</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by therealPROJEKTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anybody that can half way solder and has any experience at all can make nice joints on the bottom of the pcb and make it look pretty, the real trick is making sure the solder goes all the way through and you have no cold joints</TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GOLDBERG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how did everyone learn how to chip/socket ecu's? i wanna learn </TD></TR></TABLE>

get a decent low watt soldering iron and some desoldering braid or a cheap solder sucker for beginners and practice desoldering joints and soldering in components on trash ecu's (non chippable obd0 ecu's can usually be picked up for 5-15 bucks), or any pcb really. once you get the soldering part down, read pgmfi.org to learn the madness behind the actual ecu itself

PrecisionH23a

Here is a random rant...

I dislike the CN2 location. I've only ran into 2 ecu's where the solder just blew right out of #1 CN2. Then again, I don't have a top notch soldering/desoldering station like some of you probably do...

GOLDBERG

this is the gun i got.. 150-400 watt...is it too big?

boomslang

I prefer irons. Those guns take forever to heat up.

The Hakko 936 is a cheap starter iron (~80 bucks)

Super small diameter silver bearing solder helps make the job easier, too.

EnzoSpeed

I chipped mine with an $8 iron - radio shack special.

GOLDBERG

whats an iron??those ones that look like needles??those things take like 5 mins + too heat up

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

This is how you fix this problem. Or one way.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1165452

T-RO

You dont need an expensive iron to do decent work. I use a 15watt Radio Shack iron for my PCB soldering. It was like $8
I had some previous soldering experience though. So if youre just starting out get an old scrap piece of PCB and practice on it

boomslang

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GOLDBERG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats an iron??those ones that look like needles??those things take like 5 mins + too heat up </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm talking about soldering more than one point. Once it's hot, it stays hot. No more pull trigger, wait, solder, pull trigger, wait, solder.