platinum00

ok i have been messing with this for several months. i keep getting oil in my coolant. anyway.

here is my setup.

je 8.5.1, eagle rods, blockgaurd, micropollished crack, port pollish, 3angle, blah blah,

now i put the engine back together. but i cant seem to keep oil out of my coolant. i have replaced the head gasket ~6 times now. my compression and leak down come back fine. if i take this bolt out. the one where the clear line hooks too and i have circled in red.


i get coolant that flows out, then after all the coolant leaks out, sludgy white oil starts to come out. if i drain my oil it looks fine. if drain my coolant it looks like ****.

car seems to run great right after i change the oil and drain the coolant. im pretty confident that it's not my headgasket, but i know d16's are know for having problems with this.

what i would like to know is what internaly could i have forgot to put back together or something non headgasket related that would cause this. im assuming i gotta rip the whole engine back apart , but i guess that gives me a good reason to sleeve her this time.

any help would be great, and if you live in the columbus area and would like to help out that would be great. i for sure know how to work on honda's so im not asking you to do the work.

platinum.

Street Ghost

Maybe the head is lifting.

mamaboy

get a straight edge and feeler gauge and see if the deck is level.

platinum00

the deck and head are level, i use a straight edge everytime i put a new head gasket on.

i know d16's have head liffting issues. but i did not even hit boost last time i changed the head gasket, and i torqued it down to 75 ft/lbs and then 80 ft/lbs after 10 heat cycles.

is there anything else that can cause coolant and oil to mix. something inside the engine. A seal or something. i know a cracked sleeve could cause this, but wouldnt' that be pretty noticeable with the head off.

platinum

igo4bmx

that sucks man
i wish someone came up with an clamp type system to reinforce the mating of the two surfaces (head + block)
maybe a clamping system that holds it from the outside of the engine to work in conjunction with the studs...
bump foryou anyways

platinum00

yea this is bull$hit, someone please help.

any ideas besides headgasket anyone >?

platinum

platinum00

are there any better head studs out there besides arp, i know aebs makes a set, but are those for d series and are they any good..


platinum.

igo4bmx

i wonder man... while you head and block surfaces may be flat, can the threads inside the block be a bit messed up? we worry about the studs being too overlystretched, but can the threads of a block get stretched out?

vtekstorm

maybe the blockguard is creating the problems?

Snail Tuning

is the turbo already on the car??

if so u might have a blown seal. if it is water cooled aswell it could be mixing in the turbo. by looking at your pics it looks like the turbo may be connected. so that could be your problem. wish i had time to come down and look at this. which side of columbus are u on?

ATS*Mark

your torquing those head bolts way too much , do it to the stock torque.

platinum00

the turbo is on the car but the water cooling is not hooked up

i have tried these torque speces.

47 ft/lbs

60 ft/lbs

70 ft/lbs

and 80 ft/lbs. all of them i have had the gasket blow on .

there are no internal parts that would let coolant leak into the oil or vis versa.

platinum.

boosted_dc2

are the sleeves stock????

Landon

platinum00

the sleeves are stock , about the only thing stock on the car

platinum.

2muchPSI

could a cracked sleeve be the culprit?

Johnyquest

The only factor I see not eliminated so far is the head itself. Have you ever had the car overheat on you? This sounds like a definate possiblity of a warped head since you claim the deck is flat. If your sure it's perfect, and your running ARP's or whatnot, and and the HG is installed right, then that's the only thing left.

You may need to get the head milled just to flatten it out?

Matt

platinum00

im for sure taking the head to a machine show this time.

is this the correct way to check the block.

remove the ARP studs,
use a staight edge and a feeler gauge,
make sure you cant fit the feeler under the straight edge.

i have never seen it overheat, the temp has started to creep on me before and i shut her down before overheating occured. half way on the factory "dummy gauge" at most.

platinum.

D-Man

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know aebs makes a set, but are those for d series and are they any good..platinum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are good but the bitches dont make them for Ds

platinum00

basicly what you guys are telling me is the only way my car can be leaking oil into the coolant is from a bad headgasket or a cracked sleeve ??

im assuming a cracked sleeve would be pretty noticable with the head off correct ?

platinum.

pornstarSR

hmmm weird, im gona go with head gasket too....

i have arp head studs in my D and have had no problems... hmm

arp's are supposed to be torqued to

80ftlbs if you lube the threads with 10w-30 oil

60ftlbs of you use arps moly lube

but ive noticed you tried a few different ones there... hmm.... maybe the block gaurd...head could have a crack.... but you rarely see that... hmm.. have them pressure test the head at the machine shop.... and check the level

platinum00

yea im going to rip the head off and take it to a machine shop.

can any shop check for cracks and/or warpage.

platinum.

Finest

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im assuming a cracked sleeve would be pretty noticable with the head off correct ?

platinum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not always.

RyanEJ8

At 80 ft/lbs you most likely stretched the studs and they are no good. Stretched studs means you're going to keep blowing headgaskets until you get new studs. Now this is all assuming you were using the ARP Moly lube.

platinum00

so you recommend using new studs. does arp have a upgraded stud yet.

i was using arp molly lube. my whole engine is built with that ****

platinum.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you recommend using new studs. does arp have a upgraded stud yet.

i was using arp molly lube. my whole engine is built with that ****

platinum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, you most likely need a new set of studs. They are not designed to hold that much torque with the moly lube, they probably stretched and that is why your head keeps lifting.