Driving to work this morning and the car is running fine. Go to pase a car on the highway and the car bogs down at around 5-6000 rpm. The engine is backfiring and seems like its missing. The turbo will not spool up to 10psi it goes to 5psi.
It runs fine at lower rpm's. I got to work and i can rev the car all the way to the rev limiter. So what is it the copper plugs or is vtec not kicking in on one of the cams. What the expletive ran fine last night and today just went to ****. If it is the vtec what could cause that prob. Thanx for the help. p.s. 99 acura integra gsr.

 

Need some more information. First thing to do is check the plugs.. what is it tuned on.. what injectors and so on.

 

The injetors are rochester 550's. Its tuned by a greddy emange

 

bump

 

Try replacing the plugs/coil/wires first.. does it feel like it isn't engaging vtec?

 

no wideband for air/fuel readings?

 

check engine light when it does it?

 

checked plugs and switched out. Not doin any good. The cap is new and not sure about the coil. I can reve the car all the way to red line with 1/4 to half throttle and it runs fine. But as soon as i go to wide open throttle and the boost hits around five my problems start. Im racking my brain and nothing makes sense. My check engine light always comes on due to random misfires from all the work ive done to her. and i have an apexi turbo timer with a/f readings but thats just from the o2 sensor.
Could my engine be blown

 

could it be my map sensor. Iwas just told that running at 7psi on a stock map sensor is ok but any higher and it wears them out quickly. And i just put my boost up to 10psi about a month ago.

 

it will rev out all day long just sitting,because the car is not under load. who tuned the car..
sounds like tuning issues to me.

 

try checking the timing. my friend had a prob with his car like this. We did the timing and the vss was disconnected and it fixed the prob

 

Doesnt matter how many psi you run as long as it is tuned right, the map sesnsor just dont allow the boost colluum higher than 10.5 to be tuned.

Your check engine light SHOULD never be on, i dont care what is done to your car. It should be off and on only when there is a problem. You need to fix those problem that your having currently.

SOund like it breaking up anyway

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StolenTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doesnt matter how many psi you run as long as it is tuned right, the map sesnsor just dont allow the boost colluum higher than 10.5 to be tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do u mean by that. The tune seems to be a good tune. The runs good withthe exception of stalling sometimes when i come to a stop. The tunner told me that he could dial up the fuel but if my stock computer dosnt like it it will just knock it down again. The check engine light seems to come on when i get a misfire when first stalling im guesing form to much fuel. It stays on till i reset it but thsts just a pain in the ***.
If it was a tunning issue i dont understand how it would all of a sudden go to ****.

 

another question. ive done some research on map sensors and am reading a lot about the 3 bar. I have no idea what this all means. If anyone has a good link on how map sensors work on a turbo car post it. And are u supposed to upgrade ur map sensor when u turbo a honda and what are the stock sensors limitations.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Akalima &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">checked plugs and switched out. Not doin any good. The cap is new and not sure about the coil. I can reve the car all the way to red line with 1/4 to half throttle and it runs fine. But as soon as i go to wide open throttle and the boost hits around five my problems start. Im racking my brain and nothing makes sense. My check engine light always comes on due to random misfires from all the work ive done to her. and i have an apexi turbo timer with a/f readings but thats just from the o2 sensor.
Could my engine be blown </TD></TR></TABLE>

am i the only one who caught the...."My check engine light always comes on due to random misfires from all the work ive done to her"....line

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rdssk8rcs1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

am i the only one who caught the...."My check engine light always comes on due to random misfires from all the work ive done to her"....line</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, i caught it too, but looks like u beat me to it....i say get a AF guage and check out your fuel, might be something with the injectors or fuel pressure maybe...

 

i CHECK THE INJECTORS AND FROM WHAT I CAN TELL THERE ARE WROKING. aLL THE PLUGS HAVE THE SAME CHARACTERISTICS. i DONT NOT HAVE PRESSURE REG. FOR THE FULE JUST A HIGH FLOW FUEL PUMP. nOT GETTING FUEL IS NOT THE ISSUE. i THINK I MIGHT HAVE FRIED THE STOCK MAP SENSOR FROM RUNNING TO MUCH BOOST.

 

I had that same problem and it was the spark plug gap. I changed my gap to .030" and instantly my car ripped to redline.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ti3d in &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had that same problem and it was the spark plug gap. I changed my gap to .030" and instantly my car ripped to redline. </TD></TR></TABLE>
oK I'LL TRY THAT BUT IT DONT THINK MY GAP IS FAR FROM THAT. I THINK I NEED COLDER PLUGS ANYWAYS THEY ARE WHITE AND BLISTERED. i HAD A WIDEBAND ON HER AND WOT IS SET FOR 11.2.1 SO I HAVE **** LOADS OFF FUEL.

 

Changed my gap to .030 and still doing it. Lots of fuel. If i upgrade to a 3 bar map senosr i cannot wire it striaght into my e manage but to my stock computer. What kinds of thing do i need to do to my stock computer to make the 3 bar work?

 

bro if ur plugs are white, youre not getting enough fuel, fuel will make them darker, your detonating, put a wideband on it and check ur fuel again. plugs are not supposed to be white.

 

Thats what i thouhgt but just couldnt understand how im running lean. But ill chechk again but i was told extreme engine heat i.e. turbo will make plugs white. If i look at the very top of the threads they are black and from searches on ht ive learned that that is a sign of fuel. Maybe i should run a colder plug

 

regapped my plugs colour looks better. Checked the ohms on my wires they are all in good shape. Checked the e manage and it is functioning properly. Checked compression 170 across the board. Before u clim all over me i put a hks stopper headgasket in it and it lowered the compression to 8.5to1. so engine good. Gonna put a new map sensor and coil in tommorow. Ill let u know how it goes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Akalima &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">regapped my plugs colour looks better. Checked the ohms on my wires they are all in good shape. Checked the e manage and it is functioning properly. Checked compression 170 across the board. Before u clim all over me i put a hks stopper headgasket in it and it lowered the compression to 8.5to1. so engine good. Gonna put a new map sensor and coil in tommorow. Ill let u know how it goes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ohms is resistance, that now going to tell you if the injector is functioning properly. you want to do a voltage test to see if it getting the volts or current it should be getting

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StolenTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ohms is resistance, that now going to tell you if the injector is functioning properly. you want to do a voltage test to see if it getting the volts or current it should be getting</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know my injectors are working i used a scope i was trying to see if my wires are working properly and they are.