BoostnEK6206

lol yes youlose i do haha. but i wanna build a honda for everyday driving and racing on the weekends when im not racing for my dad since its kinda hard to drive a 1100 hp rail car on the streets haha. thats why i wanna build a ek that moves cuz im use to going fast so the ek needs to keep me excited

Youlose1305

well ok then lets get an opinion, one of our friends has a b18 block he is selling for like $150 but comes with really nothing, now would it be a better idea to buy his block but then have to come up with everything else or buy a whole swap off of like H-motors?? now boostnek, im not saying the car you are gonna buy will have a swap or not but lets see what they think, becuz from "experience" it blows to have to figure out everything that you are missing, and i am just saving your the heartache!!!

BoostnEK6206

ya but wouldnt it make sense to semi build it at least if i was looking for alil more in the near furture. cuz i was thinking that if i jus did it now then it would jus be less problems

Youlose1305

ya semi build is an easy build, just nothing too fancy, since I know you would want to be "fancy" but my build has taken for F***in ever and ya!

BoostnEK6206

i jus wanna have a good reliable build that puts out good numbers and et its jus money and time. cuz i wanna be able to run a mid 12 easy and hopefully sometime for 11's so ya. idk how thats gonna all go but hey we'll find out lol

b18sihatch

machine work can get you

esp if you dont know how to correctly build a motor

ie: blue print it

most machine shop or performance shop will blue print the block for you for around 750-800 and thats for a short block assembly

most machine work

ie:
honing
boring
degreasing
balance and rotation of assembly ect

can run you into the 500s depending on the work you are doing to the block before assembly

so you could possibly looking at 1200-1300 for blue print assembly and machine work alone, even a semi build like a fulley built short block with OEM sleeves and aftermarket internal components can run you into the money.

it depends on how solid you want the build to be and how solid you decide you want to make it.

its really vauge to think that a semi build is super easy cos its the little things that end up making you pay out the *** for later

b18sihatch

relieable 11s and 12s will cost you too.

axles
clutch disc
clutch pressure plate
flywheel
arp headstuds
arp mainstuds
arp rod bolts

those are some things to think about getting for your build

and that is only the beginning with the traction issues you could possibly run into, ie: traction bar,lsd,slicks,clutch yada yada

lol vauge vauge vauge

BoostnEK6206

haha ya thats for sure. like i said i want a reliable build that well at least put me in the low 12's. my friend has a ls block thats 81.5 mm and block guard for 150 jus for the block itself so i think i might buy that and jus fully build the bottom end then work my way up. thats the aproach im thinking???????? so we'll see

b18sihatch

IMO the block guard is completely useless, it wont make the integrity of the block any stronger.

they could egg shell the OEM sleeves if they arent installed properly, and could eggshell the sleeves anyhow, just depends.

Youlose1305

Boostnek just skip on buying that block and wait till you really know whats going down cuz from what b18sihatch says it could F**K you over in the end so ya!!!

envee

i don't know what machine shop you are going to but those prices are outrageous.

i got my crank balanced for less than 150, shotpeened rods for 75, cleaned by block for less than 50, honed cylinder walls for 50. and this is a well known shop down here that has not had any complaints that have been posted on our local site. i would recommend them to anyone.

envee

im assuming that this motor is going in the car in your sig. if so then if you want to run 11s on stock block i have this to say to you. there is an eg with just over 300 whp on drag radials with lsd that ran 11.7s consistantly at the last test and tune i went to. he drives it everyday to and from work and to whatever else he does. tuning is the key, the car was tuned by john vega and he stll gets 20+ mpg. 12s in a crx would not be a problem, my friend has a stock b16 with a 100 shot that runs 12s all day, with no interior but still, 140whp give or take with 100 shot that makes it at around 240 and he runs 12s. weight is going to make your goal very easy imo.

b18sihatch

how you do have to admit that when you do have a block built there are alot of things a machine shop can do for your block, some needed some not. and it does matter where you go some places are where (ohio) are more expendsive than others.

my machine work was over 2200 on my block, i had alot of other things done at the performance shop tho, like

blue print
full disassemble and assemble of short block and cylinder head
sleeved
port & polish
competition valve job
balanced rotate assembly
lighten rotation assembly
deburr piston
deck block
resurface head
clean and degrease head
clean and degrease block
head tapped for cylinder head tempature sensor
----------------------------------
2200.00+ for that work + 660.00 in iditanial parts

750.00 for crower h beam rods (not the cheapo ones)
550.00 for JE pistons
550.00 for sleeves
150.00 for bearing set
120.00 for gasket set

------------------------

4980.00 for that however there is other work that was done on my block and head that wasnt accounted for.

as you can see its quite expendsive however the block was built to handle 5500whp all day long. low compression 8:1 for HIGH boost application, figure iwill have a conservative tune at 15psi crank it to 25 and see what it does.

but that just goes to show you tho, machine shops can do alot of other work to the motor that will run extra over just the simple things.

i mean you dont wanna install a oily greased out head or block, there are just so many factors

the main factor is can you build the motor on your own? if not you can get into major debt by having someone else build it.

envee

I guess maybe since there are so many shops down here in florida the cost is less but 1500 less? seems kinda outrageous. at the difference i would pack my components up and ship them down here.all in all my work was around 600 but i didn't have any head work done.

Youlose1305

well we are at a quite a bit higher elevation in Montana so it might take more to run 11's.............i think here it would cost like $185 or something for balancing!!

nvmeplz

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...2fe6f

Look at this link for reference. As you can see not many set-ups have a fully built motor or anything. 300whp is possible on a stock B16 or B18c1. It really is all in the tune. Buy good parts and get a good tune and you should be fine. Now if you are going all out then use the info that b18sihatch is giving you....but for a simple set-up good parts and a good tune should be fine.

BoostnEK6206

what ill probly end up doing is getting machine work and springs/retainers then cams when i can. since what it sounds like that a good tune would be fine with a stock motor then idk i jus might buy a AEM/stand alone system that idk? and another ? i have which i kno has gotta be on some other thread somewher tho so sorry for bring up but for a head i heard that ls-v isnt really worth it and would probly be best to jus do ls???? but i heard that b16 heads flow better????

Youlose1305

I would honestly save money and not buy the b16 head becuz if you plan on running high boost vtec really wont matter and if you want a better flowing head then get the b18 one ported and polished!!!! or something along those lines!!!

BoostnEK6206

i aslo heard that its a bitch sorta, to tune the set-up with vtec if youre boosting

b18sihatch

actually b16 heads are the best flowing honda heads.

IMO even if you did get a b18 head and ported it, it still wouldnt be as good as a b16 head.

let alone a b16 head that has been ported and have tuned ports for boost.b18s dont have the oem flow capacity of b16s.

they are pretty cheap like 500 for a complete b16 head.

and vtec can make a difference on boosted applications also

Youlose1305

ok true ture but if he wants to have more money for better turbo applications then i would say just skip that idea becuz 500 could honestly go to something else!!! IMO that is but its his build................

b18sihatch

yea you have to budget certain areas and splurge in others

like a head isnt most important to splurge on

but a turbo kit is

a sleeved block isnt most important to splurge on

but a great fuel management system and engne mangement system is.

see there are just some areas to better than others

envee

The b16 head, if i remember correctly, only flows about 5% more air than a gsr head. Not that 5% isn't anything but i don't personally think it is worth the hundreds of dollars to get one.

Youlose1305

i am bought a b16 head that was crap for like 300 plus a ls head....didnt know it at the time that the valves were all ****!!! that guy still pisses me off to this day for the all the scams he did!!!

b18sihatch

butthe thnig you have to think about is, if the b16 flows 5% more than gsr and then the b16 is ported to run 10% more over oem, thats 15% over oem gsr head.

when it comes down to it, that 15% more with a boosted application could mean alot. over a gsr head.