power goals, determine what turbo would be good for you.

for me i went with a GT3582R for my setup, im looking for 550-650whp which is why the gt3582r is perfect for me, im looking for higher rev / full boost, ect

with turbo it is so addicting, esp when you have a fulley built setup, your goals change all of the time becuase you arent confined to a certain psi limit or whp limit, so you try and make adjustments to your setup and configure the setup better to get the most for your application....

HOWEVER there are many drawbacks, i am around 20k deep into my setup LOL and that is solely becuase changing from one thing to the other is like a thousand a pop for me LOL.

BUT, in the end i am going to have a completely solid build making 550-650whp with basicly the best parts you can possibly buy LOL, its just completely rediculous lol

 

Damn, you know when you look at the $ that you have spent you say "what am I doing spending all this money that I will never get back" but then you get the project finished and drive it all over just having the time of your life and then you are like "oh ya thats why I did this" haha.............I just need to sit down and evaluate what I want to do for the mean time and worry about bigger upgrades later.............college is coming up and "Some" of it needs to go to education but just getting a turbo build finished would be nice! So what did you do about compression?? did you leave it to stock specs or bring it down??

 

definitly didnt leave it stock spec, stock b16 is 10:5:1 which is too high for boosted application, or at least for what i want to do.

i went 8:1 compression so i can run more PSI of boost and keep everything safe.

however if you arent looking to run 25-30lbs of boosti dont recomend a really low compression, like 9:1 is a good compression ratio or 9:5:1 is also good.

 

so why did you decide to go with the b16 rather than the (b18 or b20)??? does vtec help any once you are higher on the power range??

 

i just prefer b16, rod stroke ratio, vtec, the head is the best flowing honda head ect, no major deciding factor between one motor to the other, but just those mainly.

when you start ''building'' a motor , the motor becomes something totally different all in itsself

so in reality it doesnt really matter becuase you can build the motor accordingly to what you want how you want it.... but again it depends on how much money you have, the sky is the limit, but money makes lmiits too

 

now if i had the money to purchase a b18c1 or b18c5 would that make any difference strength wise?? becuz i have read up on their block girdles and what not but if they really dont give a whole lot more then there would be not point in purchasing the more expensive ones?

 

those motors have even higher compression ratios making them even worse motors to run boost on.

basicly

forged pistons
forged rods

all aftermakret that is the best bet, OEM pistons and valves werent made for extreme heat and extreme pressure that is why they crack,melt,break,fry ect

 

what company have you boughten your turbo kits through or do you piece them together??

 

Props to b18sihtach - awesome info and help mate. It's a great read!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

forged pistons 350.00
forged h beam rods 250.00
machine work 350-450+ (dpends on work done)
gasket set 100.00
bearing set 130.00
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good info

but damn where the hell did you get JE pistons for 350 and crower rods for 250.. lol

I paid
495 (CP pistons)
490 (supertech valves,springs,retainers)
305 (Eagle Rods)
160 (machine work)
260 (gaskets&pumps)
120 (bearings)

Good luck.. 'Youlose'

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Youlose1305 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what company have you boughten your turbo kits through or do you piece them together??</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

oh no lol, i was saying like cheaper version of JE and Crower, like eagle rods and MAYBE some CP pistons.

the ones in my block were 550 for the pistons and 750 for the rods lol.

i was hypothetically speaking if you purchased used internal parts, the build cost would be less.

as far as turbo parts are concerned, you are only as good as the parts you are using for your build so quality is a must, but it depends on how much you are looking to spend.

manifolds can run anywhere between 100-1200
turbos 350-1500
wastegates 100-400
bov 100-250
oil lines- 75.00 (depending on a few things

there are other variables to take into consideration too.

piecing together a kit is better becuase it allows you to incorperate alot of great parts and conclude them in your initial turbo kit, however me i ALWAYS end up upgrading parts as i go along and see where it is needed.

so you can always start small, and upgrade here and there and end up where you want to be.

 

me, i have a Full race Stage 3 gt turbo kit, with upgraded full race backdoor intercooler (20x11x3

here is my kit

http://www.full-race.com/catal...d=196

intercooler

http://www.full-race.com/catal...=1359

 

high power is not uncommon on a completely stock block. some of you may have forgotten the list?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1478127

it is completely possible to make 300 on stock block. you just need an excellent tune and maybe some luck. besides those im sure there are thousands of people running 3-400 that drive daily. go for it, if it blows.. its only money. you have a life time to make more.

 

so whats a base price most guys charge to tune??

 

Anyone possibly have a cable ys1 transmission they are selling??.....I have been looking all over HT for one and either they do not want to ship it or they never seem to contact me back!!! just wondering

 

depends on the tuner. lht down here charges 500ish for street and dyno tune. thats with dyno rental.

 

so from this thread so far it seems that if you have a good tuner then you really dont need sleeves or a block gaurd but if you are planning to keep upgrading on part turbos etc that it would be a good idea to do it now.

and also if you are to sleeve you could bore it out more or wouldnt that be worth it.

 

what a way to break in the post cherry!!!

 

if you sleeve the block you can bore it out to 84mm which makes the bore 2.0L

but you do have to understand some things

a sleeved block is going to cost you around

1,000.00 for sleeved block
550.00 for 84mm pistons
450.00 for rods
500.00 for machine work
150.00 for rods and main bearings
100.00 for gasket set
-----------------------------------------
2750.00

so you see jumping into sleeves will cost you a good ammount of money.

and they arent truly needed

full race has a car with 650WHP running OEM sleeves, so you see a good tune is VERY much so the key to a safe motor.

 

Ya i just dunno what to do for sure so im jus tryin to get ideas . cuz im planning on a ls-v turbo set up in an ek. and i jus want to do it right the first time and not have to deal with anything. cuz if i sleeved it then it would make the block obviously strong but ya money is the key factor and i would be on a budget so if i wouldnt sleeve it then i could put that extra money in the head, turbo set-up, tune etc

 

eh, depends on how much power you are wanting to make

a relieable turbo setup is only relieable with quality parts.

so if i was you and money was a concern, i would put money into a built block, with OEM sleeves, then whatever else money you have left over put into a good turbo kit so you have a relieable turbo kit setup

head work isnt as prime as a solid block or solid turbo kit. it definitly will help

but isnt 100% needed, again it really depends on how much power you are looking to make

 

Boostnek6206 dont you already have a racecar anyways?? lol just go with the easy build with reasonable psi and get a nice tune and you will def. beat EFnJP!!!

 

ya i would like to reach around 350. im sorta new to this honda stuff really i mean i have friends that are building them but for me im jus now starting to look in buildng a motor for me. i was thinking that i would build the bottom end first then gping to cams and springs retainers so it can handle boost then going from ther. thanks for all the good info

 

well a built head isnt needed for those kinda psi/whp levels, oem will do just fine.

good tune,good turbo kit,built bottom end will be just fine