Herro Panda

I apologize if this is in the wrong section, but i figured i would get the best advice from those who have gone through or done a turbo set up.

So im turboing my car, but the problem is i i live in cleveland where there are no honda tuners and i need to get to either innovative or slowmotion in c-bus (well, im in columbus for school but i my house is in cleveland where i have a garage i can work in). I got quoted between 600 and 1000 for JUST the turbo install and thats obscene for something i could do myself, even though itll take longer. I thought about building it here, then trailing it down there, but i dont know anyone with a solid truck who would do that nor do i really like to have to depend on others.

So heres my question. I plan to do the headstuds and headgasket at my place, then im hoping to get as much of the kit on as possible. So far, i believe i can make the harness for the resistor box, bolt up the fmic, and figure out where all the piping goes. I also want to start with the exhaust/intake, but i wanted to make sure that i would be fine driving for 2 hrs with the turbo exhaust header going to a high flow cat and yonaka exhaust, along with removing the stock intake pipes (not mani) and sticking a dryflow or or something to make a short ram or something. Also going to try mount the vacuum mani and resistor box, along with wiring the oil press and boost gauge lines. For the oil press, can i put the oil-t in and put in the stock pressure sensor and gauge thing, while stopping the outlet that should go to the turbo?

If there is anything else i can do that would allow me to get it as far to the turbo setup as possible without disabling my car to be SAFELY driven for 2hrs on the higway, any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

Oh, and does anyone know where i can get one of these 14 pin connectors? https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/complete-diy-plug-play-obd2-civic-resistor-box-write-up-ej6-ej7-ej8-em1-eg1-eg2-eh6-2073540/

Slacker93eg

Keep an intercooler line disconnected and you wont go into boost. Just make sure there is no leaks, no ticking, and you have oil pressure and watch your temps as your driving and you should be fine

TKERacer619

Screw that. Get aaa plus. Its like $130 and you get 3 100 mile tows. You need to go 125 miles so you will have to pay for the extra miles BUT its nothing compared having a tuner pissed off at you because you tried to cheap out and do it yourself leaving him with the follow up work.

Fix the car, get it ready to tune, and tow it. You will be ahead in the long run.

You can also rent a truck at the airport and a trailer at uhaul. Just request the chevy and dont tell them you are towing. The chevy comes with a hitch, the dodges don't.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Do not build it part way. Build all of it and run with a coupler unhooked, as mentioned above, so you cannot build boost. Run on a decent basemap to get you to the tuner.

Herro Panda

Im def leaning towards just building it and leaving a coupler unhooked (maybe like the first one so i dont have any of the lower pipes dettatched) and should i put a filter on the turbo inlet? its still going to spin cause of the turbine right? An egay filter came with the set so im thinking about putting that on the turbo inlet side and putting the dryflow on the intake manifold side. Or is it better to just burn the egay filter... Also, what do you mean by "decent" basemap? All i have is the stock tune and not sure how else to change it.

Thanks for all the replies!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Get a real filter, as a the crappy one will break apart and enter into the inlet damaging the blades

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I'm sorry. Did you say the stock tune? As in stock ECU? Better not be. What is the tuner supposed to be tuning this on? Really? You are running with larger injectors are you not? If so, how is the ECU supposed to correct for the extra fuel they will be dumping into the engine?
How about for the sake of clarification you list EVERYTHING you have in your turbo kit?

Herro Panda

Ok so i had a reply, but i got logged out before i could submit it and i need to go take a final. Ill list parts and stuff and i can list them later, but my main issue is how much of it can i put on my car with the stock tune, since i dont have any means of tuning the car before i get to the tuner. No, im obviously going to get a chipped p28 with the hondata module and the conversion harness and everything for the actual tune, but none of that matters since i cant program it myself and can only run stock ecu until i can actually get to someone who knows how to.
Thanks and sorry if i poorly phrased my response

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

If you're trying to drive immediately, the answer is NONE, with the exception of anything that is not fuel injector, ECU or turbo related. This includes but is not necessarily limited to Intake manifold, Throttle body, clutch/flywheel, a few gauges, and a fuel pump.. That's it.

This needs to be installed as a complete set of parts with tuning management ready to go, including the possibility of a turbo "basemap" so that the car will start with your larger injectors. This is the BEST way to do it, but not the only one.

You can also install the entire turbo kit, except for injectors, and disconnect an I/C pipe so that the car doesn't see positive pressure. This is strictly so that you can drive to the tuner and complete your installation of injectors and fuel management. But it all depends upon how far you are from the tuner.

Hope that was a little bit of guidance.

TKERacer619

The trip he needs to take is over 2 hours without traffic.

Herro Panda

This was exactly what i was looking for, thank you.
But...
It that "too far"? Immediately after installing what i can, im directly going down to the tuner (i have to come back to college in c-bus anyways).

What I have: greddy td04h with exhaust mani, mishimoto fmic, ebay piping, dsm 450s with resistor box, vacuum mani, boost/oil press gauges, downpipe, ngk bkr7e, arp headstuds/oem headgasket, walbro 225, greddy type rs bov.
What I need: Chipped ecu with hondata, new clutch?, yonaka exhaust w/ high flow cat, new valve cover w/ catch can?

phaphon

You will also need to wait to change the spark plugs also. Or you can install everything rent a truck and trailer from u haul . I also vote get triple a it cost 130 a year for me for three 100 mile tows and one 200 miles

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

No. It's not too far. Where do you people get this stuff? As long as there is no possibility of boost, hence the loose coupler, he will be fine.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

you could theoretically drive it forever with a charge pipe disconnected..

Herro Panda

Ok, so install everything except injectors/resistor box/ecu and drive down there with piping disconnected and ill be fine. Sounds good. Thanks for all the help

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

I dont believe there are no tuners locally. You live in a major city. Look harder. Join the local car forums.
30 seconds on google I turned up:
http://www.bullittproof.com/
http://www.smokeysdyno.com/
http://www.rdpmotorsport.com/

Honda-Tech tuner directory https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2Anew-tuner-directory%2A-2349805/

Herro Panda

Im sorry, how many of them do hondas? Oh thats right, they all do DOMESTICS. Im not taking my first turbo to some place that only does muscle cars in straight lines. And if you look at the directory, they list ips and slowmotion. Big suprise.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

sigh, Smokeys specificially lists Honda/Acura on their site. Jon @ Bullitt is a former S2000 owner/tuner. RDP lists they tune AEM EMS - you never listed what platform you're with. nevermind

Herro Panda

Smokey does it for 650 only for hondata kpro and flash and im pretty sure ive listed that i want to go hondata multiple times. Id rather just go to ips or slow motion where ive heard a lot of good reviews.