ok proclass stop trying to sound smart...u must read a lot.

 

Matt, I don't doubt you when you say they can handle more than 9 psi or 300 WHP safely. Here is my question though. I have seen more than a fair share of stock bottom end turbo hondas die lately. Each and every one of them were fairly similar. 2 Were GSRs, with drag kits on 7 psi. Both made about 260 WHP. Very respectable IMHO. Both had FMUs, which I don't like. I would much rather have a hondata. Both were tuned on the dyno with a safe (at least I would say safe, maybe not) 12:1 a/f. Both of the cars melted a piston. They literally have piston metal adhered to the rods. Both of them died at WOT runs in 5th gear. I have never been an advocate of high speed blasts in 5th with N2O or a turbo. Could that have been what killed them? Also, a civic si recently had the motor go south, it was tuned as well, and made 230 whp with a drag kit on 7 psi. What are the limitations or restrictions, or requirements for a daily driven, reliable stock bottom end honda? I have contemplated doing a turbo LS for myself, but I don't want to have to dump an extra $1000 into the block right away just to feel safe driving fast. I have a hondata though, so I figure there is a bit more safety there.

 

5th gear is the highest load gear. things get lean, especially w/ an FMU.

 

With stock compression and good tuning, stock gsr blocks can see 10psi daily driven, make somewhere from 260-300whp depending on how aggressively they are tuned and what sized turbo. If you add a thicker headgasket, arp head studs and block guard you can boost 14lbs everyday, on pump gas (93 octane). I have been doing this successfully for the past couple of weeks. I have not taken the car to the dyno, but i have pretty well street widebanded the maps to the point where the air/fuel are almost dead on. 14lbs is on a 60-1/t3, which flows a decent amount more air than the standard t3/t4. I am making in the neighboorhood of 350whp, or more every single day on pump gas. Stock pistons, rods, everything just the headgasket, studs and block guard. Tuning is everything. I could run 20lbs everyday if i took all my timing out. Tuning is based first upon air/fuel, once that is dialed in timing becomes the key aspect. Just run conservative timing, and let the turbo do the work not the engine. Not only is this safer, but you can accomplish very respectable numbers out of a stock internal engine.