Been wanting to boost, but was told not to go over 300 without doing sleeves. My tuner says change rods and pistons then run e85 and Ill be good.

Anyone know what the truth is?

 

I'd say don't go over 500 without sleeves and build the motor if going near 300... obviously you will hear all kinds of different stories and well honestly everything will eventually fail

 

Oh I know that man this is just a project for the fun of it

 

Build the motor with forged rods and pistons. Do every procedure right(clearences, using OEM parts and Aftermarket parts when necessary) and you can go up to around 500 like ballistic1350 said.

BUT, after 400+, the drivetrain will have so much stress, so get ready for transmission repairs(and upgrading to aftermarket stuff) and axles problems(you might wanna use aftermarket ones on this as well).

After these, don't worry about the sleeves(if the motor is build good), worry about the tuner and the fuel you are gonna use.

 

Build the motor with forged rods and pistons. Do every procedure right(clearences, using OEM parts and Aftermarket parts when necessary) and you can go up to around 500 like ballistic1350 said.

BUT, after 400+, the drivetrain will have so much stress, so get ready for transmission repairs(and upgrading to aftermarket stuff) and axles problems(you might wanna use aftermarket ones on this as well).

After these, don't worry about the sleeves(if the motor is build good), worry about the tuner and the fuel you are gonna use.

 

Bunch of misinformation in here.

Stock vtec internals 300-350 all day on pump gas 400 on ethanol easy. 400hp isn't going to put so much stress on the drivetrain that you'll be repairing anything. Stock gearbox will take 600hp before major issues like wearing parts. People run stock gears up to 900hp they don't last but they work

Op if staying 300-350 leave it stock maybe some head studs. If you want to go over that and keep it reliable up to 600hp you want aftermarket pistons and rods and built right with proper specs. Above that sleeve it and if your tuner isn't comfortable to tune stock sleeve setup that high get another tuner. It's done over and over again some people even pushing to 500 stock sleeve pump 93.

 

This is the closest thing to the truth you will find on here. Stock B16s are known to push 300 and even 400 with a good tune. 300 would be my personal stopping point. After that, low comp pistons will take you to 500 more than likely. If you are DD it, definitely spring for rods. But 500 HP just on the track, I've seen just pistons work. As for the stock transmission, it seems like it last forever.

I agree with the last part too. Just put some head studs on it and call it a due.

 

well i can say that i had an overboost issue years back and blew a stock sleeve apart on a piston and rod motor.

i also ran a sleeved motor with about 6 degrees too much timing i forgot to use the timing gun. that slightly blew the hg but the motor stayed intact. i am confident that it would have destroyed stock sleeves.

not only does sleeving allow u to hold morenpower it makws ur motor much more durable to survive some bullshit like happened to me. my opinion take a stock motor to low300 hp range. then build it once and build it strong

 

Better to be safe than sorry. That is what most people do. Your experience is why I always add the "with a good tune" in there. Too much timing can be really hard on a motor. If I'm thinking this through correctly, that causes detnation and is what often bends rods.

OP, the stock honda parts can handle a TON of horse power. The problem comes with tuning more often than not. With a perfect tune, something I doubt you'll get (not being mean) a stock B16 can put down 500 HP. We have all seen it. Just google stock B16 500 Hp and there is a long story about it. But that guy had access to a lot of tuning that most people will never put into a motor.

 

You don't need low compression pistons either that's a misconception. If your trying to make 500 on pump gas sure but if you want a strong running motor high compression is going to make the engine more efficient and more power per pound of boost. That doesn't mean you should run 14:1 with boost but 10-11 compression will do great

 

Perfect. I was only trying to make 1,000hp on this stock motor but that's good to know it's good for 2,000hp.

 

Agreed. The 10-11 compression will make quicker spool times and it will be a more responsive motor out of boost. I thought I said low comp pistons at like 300+. That was just a ball park, I'm not the most knowledgable person around.

Not 2,000 HP. I said a ton, that's 2,000 lbs. I meant 2,000 ft/lbs of torque.

 

yeah, but don't you want it to be capable of moving 2,000lbs more than one foot? the car probably weighs more than that, so you'd probably want something closer to 3,000ft/lbs.

 

Do more research. People are posting incorrect things. If your goal is around 300 there's no need to open a perfectly good factory built honda motor. Just get a good tune. You're not close to needing sleeves.

 

Not even head studs?

 

if it were ME and only after 300 whp.

gates/toda timing belt
oem tentioner
new oem water pump
new oem oil pump
new oem headgasket
arp head studs

tune
tune
tune


call it a day plain and simple

 

stock headstuds should hold up to around 350hp then you'll need them

 

yes but my point of arp's was the fact i would change hg and arp's are almost same price as oem studs so why not

 

Agreed but I would run Golden Eagle studs

 

why the preferance idk anyone using them

 

Ok so Imma take what I got hondata s300, 1,000cc injectors, skunk 74mm intake, 74mm throttle body, maybe some rails if I got to, my 62mm turbo, ramhorn style manifold and get to work.

Now I wanna tune for 93 and e85, but I wanna be safe and I'm sure this setup will net me the 12 second 1/4 I desire.

What size wastegate and bov should I get? Also should I make plans to use my b16 head?

 

44mm would be best, as you're not going to be running high boost levels so you'll be bypassing a lot of exhaust gas around the turbine wheel, requiring a larger diameter wastegate

blow off valves are really personal preference, most quality units on the market today will work just fine

 

Yea, I just wanna do this once and be it. I might do a block guard and around head studs for the hell of it

 

block guards are worthless and they cause cooling/overheating issues

don't even bother with it

 

get arp head bolts if you plan to boost it, no matter how much psi you plan to run. CHEAP and safe insurance.

Just slap on your turbo kit, arp studs, and tune it. Call it a day. I made 293whp on a stock 150,000 mile b18b1, on 14 psi, 60 trim turbo, arp head studs.