is it safe for a turbo Honda to be running around 215-220 degrees or is that considered overheating???

 

thats running hot, my car doesnt get about 180/190 driving around, on a very hot day driving on the highway it will go between 200/205.

check your thermostat, id put a jackson racing 160temp and maybe wrap some exhaust stuff. possibly a bigger radiator.

 

i took my thermostat out because i was having problems with them not openeing...i tried three new thermostats and none of them were opening before it overheated so i took it out...

while i am driving the temperature stays pretty consistant, it is also consistant while i am stopped, the temperature rise occurs as i start to accelerate from a stop or really lay into the throttle while driving...

i have already changed my head gasket and head studs, a brand new water pump, no thermostat, heat wrapped my down pipe, installed a 2,000cfm radiator fan on my full race half style radiator (in a 89 crx), and put washers on my hood hinges trying to get more of the heat out...i am going to try to take the hood off and see if that makes a difference...

again the problem i am having is that after a while of driving the car on the street the temperature rises to around 210-215 degrees...it may get hotter but i turn the car off before i can find out...any other suggestions to help solve this problem would be greatly appreciated

 

another symptom that i find weird is that once the car gets to around 205-210 degrees it smokes a little bit and the timing belt gets real tight...then once the car cools off no more smoke and timing belt is where it should be again...once it cools off the car doesnt smoke at all and runs great!

 

Is the engine sleeved at all?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SovXietday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the engine sleeved at all? </TD></TR></TABLE>

no...stock block with a golden eagle block guard

 

must be a common problem in crx's. maybe look into something like this.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2055280

maybe a vented hood(if you don't mind looking like a ricer) ,water wetter, good quality coolant and distilled water..

 

well, just for kicks i decided to take the hood off of the car and drive it around to see what happened....car stayed around 180-185 at all times...

i guess the issue now is how to get the heat out of the engine bay and more air to the radiator at the same time...

i appreciate all of your help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CrxSiR-GNY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no...stock block with a golden eagle block guard</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lose the block guard.

 

THE BLOCK GUARD IS A TRICKY PART. YOU CANT JUST SLAM IN ANY BLOCK GUARD AND SLAP THE HEAD ON. YOU NEED TO INSTALL THE BLOCK GUARD AND HAVE THE BLOCK HONED OR MACHINED. THE BLOCK GUARD WILL SLIGHTLY DISTORT THE SLEEVES WHEN INSTALLED. HEAT EXPANSION AND CONTRACTION OF THE BLOCK GUARD COULD ALSO BE MOVING THE SLEEVES UNDER THE HEAD. YOU MAY HAVE PERMINANT DAMAGE. ALSO NEVER RUN A STREET CAR WITHOUT A T-STAT. NO MATTER WHAT!!

 

yeah i wouldnt run my car witout a t-stat thats a no no

 

my ecu reads around 190ish on average but my aftermarket water temp gauge reads around 215...really wierd. i have the sensor for it in the water outlet elbow on the head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BOOSTEDFERIO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THE BLOCK GUARD IS A TRICKY PART. YOU CANT JUST SLAM IN ANY BLOCK GUARD AND SLAP THE HEAD ON. YOU NEED TO INSTALL THE BLOCK GUARD AND HAVE THE BLOCK HONED OR MACHINED. THE BLOCK GUARD WILL SLIGHTLY DISTORT THE SLEEVES WHEN INSTALLED. HEAT EXPANSION AND CONTRACTION OF THE BLOCK GUARD COULD ALSO BE MOVING THE SLEEVES UNDER THE HEAD. YOU MAY HAVE PERMINANT DAMAGE. ALSO NEVER RUN A STREET CAR WITHOUT A T-STAT. NO MATTER WHAT!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

why is it so bad to run a street car without a thermostat? do the symtoms that my car is having sound like an issue with the block guard? When i drove the car with no hood on the car ran fine, no overheating, the car actually stayed between 175-185 degrees

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CrxSiR-GNY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why is it so bad to run a street car without a thermostat? do the symtoms that my car is having sound like an issue with the block guard? When i drove the car with no hood on the car ran fine, no overheating, the car actually stayed between 175-185 degrees</TD></TR></TABLE>

does anybody have an answer to why it is so bad to run a street car without a thermostat?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CrxSiR-GNY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

does anybody have an answer to why it is so bad to run a street car without a thermostat?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It will take your car longer to reach operating temp, but other than that, it won't cause any problems.

 

I believe the issue with not running a thermostat is fluid does not stay in the radiator long enough to maintain correct operating temps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maddog20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe the issue with not running a thermostat is fluid does not stay in the radiator long enough to maintain correct operating temps. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bingo

 

Running with no thermostat won't hurt anything other than your gas mileage, it will take forever (15-30 minutes) to warm up and run rich the whole time.
The fan should be coming on to cool off the radiator before the needle goes past the 3/4 mark on the gauge. Is that happening?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thewrai6th &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Running with no thermostat won't hurt anything other than your gas mileage, it will take forever (15-30 minutes) to warm up and run rich the whole time.
The fan should be coming on to cool off the radiator before the needle goes past the 3/4 mark on the gauge. Is that happening?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah my fan turns on at 170 degrees...right where it is supposed to...

i dont really care about how long it takes the car to warm up...if it doesnt cause any actual harm to the motor or the car why is it such a big "no no" to run with no thermostat in a street car...I understand that the water doesnt stay in the radiator long enough but with my engine running hot with the boost it warms up in 10 minutes and the temperature stays where it is supposed to be (with the hood off)...when the hood is when it has the problem...i found this out yesterday when i decided to take it off and see it letting all the heat out and the extra air would help...it seemed to work

 

Well if your car stays to cool....your ECU will be making corrections like you still warming up. Maybe thats why some people feel some power increase when removing the T-stat(timing added). But, that may not be a good thing on a boosted car. Thats why some EMS's give the option for a boost cut when the temp is too cold.

Do you have some sort of datalogging abilty that shows the amount of corrections?

 

I noticed you said Full-Race half style? Does Full-Race sell radiators?

 

You may need a better radiator and stronger fan.
There is no reason to not run a thermostat. It will be open anytime the car gets hot. It's is only closed when your car is colder than the set temp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thewrai6th &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You may need a better radiator and stronger fan.
There is no reason to not run a thermostat. It will be open anytime the car gets hot. It's is only closed when your car is colder than the set temp.</TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maddog20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I noticed you said Full-Race half style? Does Full-Race sell radiators?


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, they sell radiators.

 

Running a fan shroud ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trashcanrepairman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



Yes, they sell radiators. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I didnt know that. thank you


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thewrai6th &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You may need a better radiator and stronger fan.
There is no reason to not run a thermostat. It will be open anytime the car gets hot. It's is only closed when your car is colder than the set temp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This man is correct, look for a better fan with a shroud maybe even a block-off plate were your a/c used to be.

Just for ***** I would verify your timing is correct mechanical and distro. I had my cam timing be off and I temp issues just like your describing.