khmboostedeh2

just like the title says, how?

PrecisionH23a

http://www.hondata.com/tech.html

-tuning guide

sqwale

is there any other site for tuning like the basics? i dont even know where to start iv been searching for a while but still am confused about how to tune

EJ1 wilcox

There are some good tips on the Uberdata web site...

Also, there are a few good videos on Innovate's web site that give some basic tips. Check out pgmfi.org for a bunch more info...

I am going to tune my car myself as soon as I purchase a wideband...

From what I understand, you start with a basemap, then log or observe your air fuel ratios in different rpm ranges, then adjust accordingly... once you have your air fuel ratios locked down and smoothed out, you can adjust the timing while monitoring your exhaust temps...

11psiTurboSI

http://www.efi101.com

civicross

Very carefully.

B18C4-T

If you're asking this question the best advise I can give you is to find a GOOD tuner and set up an appointment. Make sure you have all the bugs worked out of your car and it's ready for the tune you want. I just drove to Dallas TX (12 hrs each way), spent a full day on the dyno, and wasted Tony1's time because my ignition system wasn't able to keep up with the power I wanted. All in all it cast me about $1500 to get my car tuned to about 1/2 of what I was looking for . My wife is upset. Larry

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C4-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're asking this question the best advise I can give you is to find a GOOD tuner and set up an appointment. Make sure you have all the bugs worked out of your car and it's ready for the tune you want. I just drove to Dallas TX (12 hrs each way), spent a full day on the dyno, and wasted Tony1's time because my ignition system wasn't able to keep up with the power I wanted. All in all it cast me about $1500 to get my car tuned to about 1/2 of what I was looking for . My wife is upset. Larry</TD></TR></TABLE>

LoL.

Always do a nice tune up before getting tuned. Also I recommend atleast taking your car to a tuner the first time, if you have no idea of what to do. You can atleast watch what he does and learn some useful info.

SOHC_MShue

if you want to learn then there is no need to go to a tuner. Just read read read...and then read more. You will soon get the hang of it

sqwale

thanx for the info

GruvyTune

if you have the money to invest in the materials, learn yourself. the education is invaluable for the long haul.

otherwise, if you are not looking to tune many cars, its best to take to someone who will street tune the car so it runs like a stock car.
dyno tuning is optional and only really needed for very high boost and even then, you'll be slipping your tires on the rollers.

1FSTHATCH

you gotta be persise in the tuning of the car cause this is the stabilization of the motor.. I would contact urbandata for a base map which for the most part should be pig rich..but the car will run..invest in a wideband if you havent yet, than slowing back fuel out one bar at a time.. than make some pulls..but only pull fuel out of one table so if it was a wrong adjustment you will know where you have to change and make corrections.. be careful, and best of luck to you..

If it seems to be complicated and you dont understand, i would recommend paying a shop..

Pickle

Squirtle

Still reading.

turbodohcsi

http://www.aempower.com, very good info and a lot of it.

BlueShadow

For the guys wanting to know about tuning, go to the Uberdata forums and do a search for the "Golden Sheet". It is a chart of what A/F ratio's or AFR's you want to get at the different RPM's and vacuum/boost levels. Download the latest version of Uberdata v1.7 and start messing around with the fuel and timing cells.

Even if you dont plan on using Uberdata, pretty much all standalones and free ECU programs are based off of the same tuning concept. You go through a spreadsheet looking chart looking at RPM's on the up and down or Y axis and the vacuum/boost on the left to right or X axis. Each RPM number and vacuum/boost number will intersect in what is referred to as a cell. Each standalone/freeware program have user adjustable cells, for timing and for fuel. When you have a datalogger and wideband setup in your car it "records" your AFR's at the different RPM levels and the vacuum/boost level at that RPM level. What you then do is take your actual AFR at a given RPM and vacuum/boost level and adjust it to match a template (the "Golden Sheet"). The Golden Sheet is a chart of the entire RPM and vacuum/boost table which shows you the optimum AFR's for the whole map.

All that might not make sense now, but if you DL Uberdata v1.7 and open the provided GSR map (also known as a .bin) and start tinkering with the cells and stuff it will all start to make sense. You can visit the Uberforums HERE and DL the latest release of Uberdata which is version 1.7.

BlueShadow

ok, I thought I'd take a few minutes to make up some pics to show you guys what you'd be looking at when you tune. I had to host the pics on imagestation though so they are small. If somebody can host up the full sized pics I can e-mail it to you and you can host it up. I will be using Uberdata, but that's on my laptop. I have Crome already installed on my PC and that's what I used to do this. They are close to the same thing so it is very easy for me to learn how to use Crome since I already know how to use Uberdata.

PIC 1 is of me just opening up a stock P30 .bin file. Right now I can only adjust the vacuum or naturally aspirated cells. What I am about to do in the menu is open up the boost tables and set the boost fuel and timing multipliers so I can adjust fuel and timing while in boost.



PIC 2 is the new map with vacuum and boost, notice there are more cells going to the right now? You can see the text I added. I boxed in blue the vacuum portion and in black you see the boost portion of the map. On the left side of the map are the different RPM levels. At any given point your engine will be in one of these cells when it is running. When you step on the gas, the RPM's and vacuum increases. When you let off the gas the RPM's drop and so does the vacuum. At the top you see the four smaller black/blue/black/blue squares. VTEC motors have 2 maps for ignition and 2 maps for fuel (4 total). One of those maps are for the low cam and the other is for the high cam.



PIC 3, the numbers are too small to see. But that purple box is the currently selected cell. I also picked that cell to show you the cell that represents your idle RPM. When your car is idling it is at 750 RPM's and at about 21 in/hg of vacuum. The cell currently displays 16.5 which stands for 16.5 degrees BTDC. That selected cell shows you the ignition value (for IGN tables) and fuel value if you are looking at the fuel tables.



PIC 4 is a pic of the fuel table...as you can see you can select a wide range of cells to increase or decrease the values. For Crome you can see where I circled the arrows that would increase or decrease the amount of fuel. You can se that the whole RPM range and the first 4 vacum ranges are selected, so if I increase the fuel it will do so for all the selected cells. Crome allows you to change the values several different ways. You can increase it by a percentage or by adding a number to the number(s)that are currently displayed.



Anyways that should give you guys a general idea of how you adjust fuel and timing values. Remember, when you first start tuning you will want to make a basemap first. Instructions on how to do that can be foundon the uberforums Newbies section. When you first start datalogging you will get your actual AFR's. And using the Golden Sheet below (courtesy of the John Cui's program CromePRO) you get your actual AFR's to match what is on the Golden Sheet. Use the Golden Sheet as a reference only...if you feel like you should be running a little rich then 12.0:1 in the boost cells then that is up to your. Use the numbers on the Golden Sheet at your own discretion. If you use those numbers then you cant hold me or anybody else liable if something was to go wrong.





Modified by BlueShadow at 5:45 AM 6/16/2005

CaptivaBlue

This is all something I need to learn as well...

SHystrdyGSRtdy

thanks blueshadow for taking time to splain it in laymen terms

kr

good info

EJ1 wilcox

Thanks for the added explanation... I have read over Keebler's write up a few times as well...

I can't wait to start tuning! I should be getting a wideband soon so I can see where I'm at and where I need to be...

Is there a way to tune without datalogging? Can you just rev to a certain RPM, see where your A/F ratios are, and adjust accordingly? Or do you really need to datalog to get a good tune?

BlueShadow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Is there a way to tune without datalogging? Can you just rev to a certain RPM, see where your A/F ratios are, and adjust accordingly? Or do you really need to datalog to get a good tune?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I suppose you could do it for partial throttle, but it will be very hard and time consuming. WOT tuning is proably out of the question though. For WOT tuning your AFR's, RPMs and boost will rise so fast that you wont be able to keep track of it. I dont see why you would want to tune without datalogging anyways. Some systems such as the Zeitronix come with their own datalogging software. All you had to do is solder in the controller wiring into your ECU or OBD conversion harness and you're set.

EJ1 wilcox

Thanks for the input...

I was going to get the AEM wideband because I can pick it up for $310 but now I'm considering the Zeitronix for datalogging purposes...

Okay, from my understanding, with the PLX, AEM, and Innovate units you either have to purchase an RPM converter and/or datalog through your ECU (Uberdata). I don't want to datalog through Uberdata because I would have to install a USB cable etc.

I would rather not spend the extra money for an RPM converter if I don't have to. With the Zeitronix you can datalog RPMs against A/F ratios without buying anything extra right?

With the Zeitronix can I install it into my car and use the Zeitronix software to datalog RPMs and A/F ratios?

I think I'm going to buy the Zeitronix wideband... it seems like a good choice for datalogging...

Sorry that was OT, I am a bit confused but trying to sort things out!

BlueShadow

Snail Tuning has a zt2 and he is using the Zeitronix software. He has a really good writeup on how to set it up. I think the way he did it he didn't use an RPM converter. He just wired it all to his OBD conversion harness. I already have my ECU setup for datalogging, but I'm undecided if I wanna use UD or the zt2 software for datalogging.


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1033455


EDIT: if they get the export lambda log feature into UD, then I think that would be a big step towards auto tuning. Right now because of the way the UD program is written export lambda is not possible. I think there are people in the UD forums that are working on a seperate MS Excel spreadsheet that helps you auto tune. I think it's sort of a manual auto tune, because you have to manually input number. If they could get that stuff working it would be a lot better to have your ECU set up for datalogging. That way you can take advantage of export lambda and autotune.

junkyard racer

I didnt read every single post on here, but im courious what kind of FM you are gonna run. there are lots of people in the CT area that can tune OBD0 and OBD1 cars. they are on the uberdata forums (obd1) alot go check them out and ask questions there. someone im sure will gladly help you out.

uberdata forum:
http://www.ecimulti.org/uberdata/

obd0 tuning in the ct area:
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...203.0

*not tryin to sound like a smart *** with this post*

dunkd

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