Ok, I installed the 3B last week. Didnt really have too much time to mess with the programmable rpm points since I put it in. Well, I got down to trying some different points tonight.
Well, this basically sucks!!! I cant set the overall rev limit---it doesnt go any higher than 6000 RPM. I tried everything---the static and the dynamic. Unfortunately I dont have the stage 4 so I cant see whats going on. I was able to change the launch control and also move the rev limit to a lower point. I didnt really bother with the shift lite RPM and full throttle shift RPM.
What I figure is that when my base map was burned, somehow it was accidentaly burned at 6000 instead of what the Hondata factory limit should be at 9000.

On top of this problem I have a little hesitation or hickup at about 3500 when Im on the highway. It does it in lower gears but more noticable in 5th. I was thinking that it was cause I was still running stock +1 or 2 on the fuel pressure. I just dropped it back down to about 39 w/vacuum and it seemed to help a little bit-but I havent had a chance to check it at 5th gear speeds. Also noticed it was eating gas--probably cause of the fuel pressure though.

Other than these 2 problems, everything is fine. LED stays steady on the control box. Starts right up--even faster than before the hondata, idle quality is perfect.

Any thoughts on this? Doug, if you see this please respond! By the way I bought the hondata through redline engineering in FL., but Hondata burned the map and drop shipped it directly to me--so basically my dealer had nothing to do with this.

This sucks only being able to rev to 6K. Even though its only a stock LS, those last 1000 rpm's are really needed!

 

I have the same problem like you in my 3b and among other things. I called up Hondata and they suggested me to reset it by holding the button while I turn on the ignition. That didn't work... So I only manage to set it by dynamic. That worked for a while but was inconsistant until the hondata stop working completely during the day time in Georgia's heat. Got fed up with it and sent it over nite to Hondata, with Doug saying he will swap it out. That was 1 1/2 weeks ago, so now my car is not driveable..... I wrote couple of emails both to the email address on Hondata web's site and address I gotten from here and gotten no response. I just don't know how effective is Hondata businesses in term of testing their units before selling it to customers or screening the dealers who sells the unit with knowledge of support and tuning. But there must be another alternative.


[Modified by karmannghia, 2:33 AM 4/15/2002]

 

why don't you call them? They are more then helpful.

 

I did that, come on man--im not that helpless. I dont think they have sunday hours, well I know they dont, they mention they are open mon-fri.
I did leave a message and I hope to hear from someone tomorrow.

But for now..........anyone else

 

ive read many of your posts and
from day one ive seen nothing but ups and downs...

your endeavours to boost...seem like a roller coaster ride from hell...

i hope it all works out in the end...goodluck!

 

I was planning to get a hondata as well, I emailed them too and had a couple of questions for them and didnt get any response from them either. I read some good things about hondata and some bad. But if there customer service is like this it makes me lean towards something else, like aem, but no one has any info bout this since not many people have it. I really wanted to get the hondata, but if their cust service is like this i dont think it worth it.

 

I am not saying that their customer service is bad. I havent even made them aware of my problems til tonight, when I left the message on their answering machine.
I love the whole proncipal of the hondata. I think its a great product and I am looking forward to it keeping my car running in a great state of tune.
I brought it up to the board here to see if anyone else may have had a similiar reaction with running their hondata on the base that was provided for them.

Remember!! I have not dyno tuned this yet, and I am very positive that as soon as I get on the dyno that everything should iron out.....

I mean, hell, what other kind of system will wire into the factory computer and idle 550's with the first time the key is turned after the install??

 

i haven't yet had a problem with my 2b, and have been running it for about a year.
the only trbl i ran into was when my interface box came loose and i was red lined at 4k!!! but i have an OLD one, theres no led on my box... my silver box.

 

wow... all these problems. i dont think its the customer service thats bad... its the whole process you go thru. ive read up posts from time to time on everyone gettin hondata and ive seen all the different problems. it seems like the only way is to datalog the problem or send the product back in to have them take a look at it. thats exactly why i changed my mind.

its come to the point where it isnt plug and play anymore. all these little glitches about hiccups and rev limit issues. i figured... if youre goin go to spend all that money... why worry about hiccups and other things like that?

just wondering.. did anyone figure out anything about the hiccup problem?


[Modified by dlplayboy, 9:43 PM 4/14/2002]

 

what would u guys buy instead hondata
i need something good but wich avc-r ?? aem ?? any others??

 

Hondata has the best customer service in the industry, bar none. I've never worked with anyone willing to go so far out of their way to help.

Sonny

 

uhmmm avc-r? that is a boost controller. AEM, ZDYNE, SPEEDPRO, HALTEC...to name a few. Hondata is considerably alittle more affordable.

 

but i see so many post with hondata problems
sould i still go with hondata? or something else

 

How about you keep stupid questions like this to your own post NEWB.
I would like for this to be kept as a tech feedback post!

Oh, go Motec--but first sell your parents house for the funds

 

We test all our systems work before they leave the shop.
93LSivic : 6000 rpm is the default full throttle shift. Try the rev limit with the clutch switch unplugged. If this does not work email me, doug@hondata.com with your car's approx specs and I will rewrite the chip. Better yet get Theo from Redline (your dealer) to do this. This is something that your dealer or tuner is supposed to do.

Secondly these maps are only approximate base maps for you to get your car to a dyno tuner, so that part and full throttle can be tuned correctly.

karmannghia : It should not take us this long to get this sorted out for you. If I have been the cause of this I apologise. Call me tomorrow morning 310 782 8278 about 10am PST. I have been a little busy recently preparing (try an average 4 hours sleep per night for the last week) the tunes library web page, which should be posted tomorrow.

Prelude Vtec 23 : We have just hired additional staff to help us catch up on the backlog of email. Have you tried phoning? We usually answer the phone (during office hours!)

ronin : The LED is inside your older box.

dlplayboy : The more people purchase our system, the more people you will get reporting problems. Simple maths. Problems do occur but we go out of our way to fix them. I think the hiccup problem has a lot to do with part throttle tuning - or lack of it. Most dyno operators tune only full throttle - which is about 1/6th of the fuel maps. If somone in LA can bring me a car displaying these problems, I will be able to datalog it.

We see a lot of intermittant problems caused by do it yourself installers and poor soldering. One ECU I looked at recently had a bare 3 inch wire inside the ECU to repair a broken connection.

http://www.hondata.com/feedback.html - This tells you that we try hard.

Doug

 

I understand, thanks for the reply, i'll give you guys a call.

 

Thanks Doug. I knew it wouldnt take you too long to reply!
I actually thought about the full throttle shift maybe getting in the way of the rev limit. I just didnt think to unplug the clutch switch. I will try that now!

 

Ok!! Good news! Thats what the problem was. Seems that I dont have the clutch switch screwed in far enough. When I would rev up to redline I guess my clutch pedal isnt all the way back--maybe the spring is a little worn or something. If I were to pull the clutch pedal back with my foot, it would rev right to 7200 where i set it--if I dont pull back on the pedal, then it redlines at 6000 where the full throttle shift point is programmed at.

Ok, thats it---just tighten the switch in a little more.

Thanks Doug!!

 

-To hondata haters, what do you expect of course when people install a standalone and have a problem they post a topic and try to get help, that is the main function of forums like this. You see a lot of hondata problem posts because alot of people on here are using hondata, not cause hondata has a lot of problems, think about it...
.ad.

 

no one was hatin on hondata. they were just venting mixed emotions on the problems at hand. others, like me, who want to get it... get mixed intentions because we do not want to deal with these problems as well. its a learning process... just as people post their problems.. other vent their issues. take a chill pill dude.

doug,
i figured that most of the inconsistencies involved the main issue of tuning. its too bad dealers charge so much to tune. that library is a good idea. it would really help if you had more applications for b18b DRAG3 setups. cuz then it would really be a plug and play kinda thing. then from there... any mods could be compensated for by an hour of tuning at the dyno.

 

Hondata Doug

Never Fails. So glad I didn't go with the AEM!

Tom


[Modified by blowncivichb, 3:57 PM 4/15/2002]