liam821

So ive been doing alot of reading about avgas (aviation gasoline) 100LL. Its 100 octane "low lead" although i hear it still has alot of lead in it. It has two grams [of lead] per gallon. It was made to replace avgas 100/130 which contains 4 grams per gallon.

You can find avgas 100LL at almost any airport for ~$2.50 a gallon.

Im thinking about mixing up a brew take 1 part avgas 100LL with 2 parts 91 octane (best we can get here in california). Im not sure how much octane the end result will be but it should only cost me about $2-3 more per tank. Id be happy to pay a few extra bucks to drive around on better gas. Id most likely buy 55 gallons at a time (a drum) and then mix in my garage.

Has anybody ever used anything like this before? I know it will kill a cat and your o2 sensor after time. But i dont have a cat and o2 sensors are cheap.

Ive also read about using Isopropyl Alcohol and Tertiary Butyl Alcohol. Isopropyl Alcohol is simply rubbing alcohol. From my reading, mixing 10% with 92 octane will give you almost 95 octane. Its a little bit more expensive.

Ive also heard about people using Xylene as a mix. But i hear that is really expensive.

Anybody have any thoughts about this? Id love to drive around on race gas all the time but at $5-6 a gallon its a little expensive for daily use.

thanks,
liam

tegasaurus

first the "inventor" of the poor man's hondata, now he wants to brew up gas in his basement... what next?

haha, actually im interested in this idea also, the extra octane would help these detonation filled 110 degree days here in az.

-ryan

kpt4321

Avation fuel is totally different from automotive fuel in terms of burn properties and octane rating method. As far as I know, it will not work in a car's motor.

The use of Xylene and Toulene, on the other hand, is quite the common practice. Toulene was used about 10 years ago in pure form as a race car fuel, and made close to 1000 hp at 75 psi from 1.5 liter motors (yes, you read that correctly). Xylene is similar in chemical makeup, and both are fairly widely avalible. They are, however, expensive, and need to be mixed with gas.

Be careful if you're going to experiment with any kind of alcohol, it will eat through all kinds of things that are important to your car running well. Things like the fuel pump, injectors, and all kidns of rubber seals, will hate you.

turb

so how many parts of toulene or xylene do you mix to a liter of gasoline? and how many octane does it boost with that mixture?

kpt4321

The most I personally would feel comfortable mixing would be in a 1:1 ratio, and even that I would not do all the time.

That will result in an octane *around* 104.

QCKGSR

[QUOTE=tegasaurus]first the "inventor" of the poor man's hondata, now he wants to brew up gas in his basement... what next?


hahahahah

RudeLude

i used to use avgas in my seadoo. i had the head milled and really high compression, and i had to use either avgas, or sunoco, and avgas was much cheaper. to my knowledge it never affected anything, my craft actually ran beter with it. knowing this, i would assume that it would be safe to use in cars also?
daniel

Mr. Softee

id just use toulene

liam821

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RudeLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used to use avgas in my seadoo. i had the head milled and really high compression, and i had to use either avgas, or sunoco, and avgas was much cheaper. to my knowledge it never affected anything, my craft actually ran beter with it. knowing this, i would assume that it would be safe to use in cars also?
daniel</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive also read it is safe to use in 4cyl engines. However i would mix it.

liam

liam821

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first the "inventor" of the poor man's hondata, now he wants to brew up gas in his basement... what next?

haha, actually im interested in this idea also, the extra octane would help these detonation filled 110 degree days here in az.

-ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

hehehe i know. My girlfriend is like "NO WAY are you mixing gas in the garage, we sleep right over that!". Our bedroom is right over the garage. hhehe

liam

liam821

Here is some posts ive found looking around on the internet on the subject. Sorry about the LONG post..good reading though.

liam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In article &lt;1991Oct3.161858.24389@cbnews.cb.att.com&gt; kaybee@cbnews.cb.att.com
(karen.a.beaudoin) writes:
+---------------
| My question is, what exactly is in this AVGAS that makes it different
| from RACE GAS/UNOCAL 76/etc.??
+---------------
Well, there are a couple of things. Some are of help and interest to
racing use, others are not.

Perhaps firstly, AVGAS can be fairly high octane. There are several
catagories of fuel, and they each have two octane numbers associated
with them. Those numbers reflect the effective octane at two different
test conditions that are to emulate take-off power settings and high
altitude cruise conditions.

The rating pairs are expressed as "80/87" for example, but the lower of
those two numbers works out to be similar to the posted pump octane in you
local gas station (the average of the "motor" and "research" methods).

The generally available blends work out to around 80, 100 and 140 octane
(and the 140 is getting hard to find). The fuel is identified with a
dye to help the pilot be sure he hasn't been serviced with fuel who's
octane is too low for his plane. Detonation is no good in a car, but in
a plane it can be fatal. That's why you see pilots draining samples of
fuel from each tank after service. The dyes are formulated so that if
they are mixed, they go clear. So, if the sample isn't the right color
(or has no color) you've been mis-fueled.

The color codes are: Red for 80 octane, blue for 100 octane and purple
for the 140 juice. There is also a green dye, used in the so-called
"low lead" version of 100 octane (usually labled 100LL on the truck).
There was some controversy in the aviation circles when the 100LL was
introduced. It was intended by the petroleum companies to replace both
the 100 and 80 octane fuels and simplify their distribution problems,
but it still has too much lead (4 times the 80 octane amount) for many
planes, which get lead fouling on their plugs.

The point of this is, 100LL is the most widely available avgas, and it
has LOTS of lead compared to mogas regular, since the EPA limited mogas
lead content to the minimum needed to lubracate the valves in older
cars. It (of course) has even more lead than unleaded mogas. :-)

Now, why does this matter? Because the effect of added lead is not
linear. That is, doubling the amount of lead does not double the octane
increase the first dose got you. Since unleaded mogas needs to be
constructed from fairly high octane components in the first place adding
a little lead to unleaded mogas can boost its octane quite a bit. If
you add some 100LL avgas to some 97 (say) unleaded mogas, you can get
octane numbers higher than either gas alone.

The higher octane allows you to run higher compression ratios without
detonation and the holed pistons that go with it.

As to the cost difference, it is mostly due to volumes and distribution.
There is a smaller market for Unocal racing fuel than there is for 100LL
avgas. It costs more to deal with it, moving it around uncontaminated
and the like. It's not particularly better otherwise as a mixer.

Another avgas difference is generally much lower Reid vapor pressure.
Since planes fly at altitudes cars never will see (we hope!) the fuel
has to be less volitile to avoid vapor lock. At the 24,000 feet my
Mooney can cruise, you are above more than half the atmosphere and
regular car gas could froth in the fuel lines to the injectors. This
means an avgas (or mix) fueled car may be harder to start, and the fuel
distribution in the manifold may be a bit poorer.

So, to summarize (if you've read this far): Try mixing about 1 part of
the green avgas to 5 parts premium pump mogas. Adjust the fuel mix
ratios or your compression ratio after examining your plugs (you DO
examine your plugs after a run, don't you?).</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Date: 12 Aug 92 09:13:05 U
&gt;From: "KEN MOSHER"
Subject: Gasoline and about last ***
To: kmosher@imd.sterling.com
Return-Receipt-To: Ken_Mosher@imd.sterling.com

With all the talk about O2 sensors, oxygenated fuels, and racing gas, I decided
to dig up the following data that I've gathered. I hope it is of general
interest to the list.


First, some data about the Sunoco CAM2 fuels from their literature:

SUNOCO "Standard"
Color......................Purple
Research Octane.........115
Motor Octane..............107
R+M/2 ......................111
Specific Gravity........0.725
Reid Vapor Pressure..... 8#
-- Distallation temp, degrees F --
Initial............90
10%............160
50%............220
Final...........360

SUNOCO "GT Unleaded"
Color......................Natural
Research Octane.........105
Motor Octane..............95
R+M/2 ......................100
Specific Gravity........0.760
Reid Vapor Pressure..... 8#
-- Distallation temp, degrees F --
Initial............90
10%............150
50%............210
Final...........230

SUNOCO "Supreme"
Color......................Blue
Research Octane.........116
Motor Octane..............109
R+M/2 ......................112
Specific Gravity........0.715
Reid Vapor Pressure..... 8#
-- Distallation temp, degrees F --
Initial............90
10%............155
50%............215
Final...........260

SUNOCO "Maximal"
Color......................Red
Research Octane.........118
Motor Octane..............115
R+M/2 ......................117
Specific Gravity........0.700
Reid Vapor Pressure..... 6#
-- Distallation temp, degrees F --
Initial............100
10%............150
50%............220
Final...........240

And from Rich Lassitter's article in the GS Xtra ... how to mix your own brew:

Formula #1 - Toulene
=============================
R+M/2.........114
Cost...........$2.50/gal

Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
--------------------------------
10%...........94.2 Octane
20%...........96.4 Octane
30%...........98.6 Octane

Notes: Common ingredient in Octane Boosters in a can. 12-16 ounces will only
raise octane 2-3 *points*, i.e. from 92 to 92.3. Often costs $3-5 for 12-16
ounces, when it can be purchased for less than $3/gal at chemical supply houses
or paint stores.

Formula #2 - Xylene
=============================
R+M/2.........117
Cost...........$2.75/gal

Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
--------------------------------
10%...........94.5 Octane
20%...........97.0 Octane
30%...........99.5 Octane

Notes: Similar to Toulene. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*,
i.e. from 92 to 92.3. Usually mixed with Toulene and advertised as *race
formula*.

Formula #3 - Methyl-tertiary-butyl-ether (MTBE)
=============================
R+M/2.........118
Cost...........$3.50/gal

Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
--------------------------------
10%...........94.6 Octane
20%...........97.2 Octane
30%...........99.8 Octane

Notes: Oxygenate. Very common in octane booster products. Has lower BTU
content than toulene or xylene, but oxygenate effect makes the gasoline burn
better and produce more energy.

Formula #4 - Methanol or Ethanol
=============================
R+M/2.........101
Cost...........$0.60 - $1.75/gal

Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
--------------------------------
10%...........94.3 Octane (Methanol)
10%...........94.7 Octane (Ethanol)
20%...........Not Recommended

Notes: Methanol is wood alcohol. Ethanol is grain alcohol and found in Gasohol
in 10% ratios. Both alcohols are mildly corrosive and will eat gas tank
linings, rubber and aluminum if used in excessive ratios. Main ingredient in
"Gas Dryers", combine with water.

Formula #5 - Isopropyl Alcohol and Tertiary Butyl Alcohol
=============================
R+M/2.........101
Cost...........$0.60-$1.50/gal

Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
--------------------------------
10%...........94.5 Octane
20%...........Not Recommended
30%...........Not Recommended

Notes: Similar to Methanol/Ethanol. Isopropyl Alcohol is simply rubbing
alcohol.

How to make your own octane booster (this is the basic formula of one of the
popular octane booster products). To make eight 16 ounce bottles (128 oz = 1
gal):

100 oz of toulene for octane boost
25 oz of mineral spirits (cleaning agent)
3 oz of transmission fluid (lubricating agent)

This product is advertised as "octane booster with cleaning agent *and*
lubricating agent!". Diesel fuel or kerosene can be substituted for mineral
spirits and light turbine oil can be substituted for transmission fluid. Color
can be added with petroleum dyes.


-- Ken Mosher
-- Buick Grand National: A *BOOST* of Buick Performance</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's an article from Popular Hot Rodding magazine, January 1998. The
article is titled "Petroleum Proof, High-Performance Gasolines" by Scott
Parkhurst. There also was a small chart in the aricle that showed
effectiveness of octane boosters.

Octane is a measurement of a fuel's resistance to ignition.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture will ignite at the proper time and burn
smoothly through the power stroke. The idea is that one powerful
combustion of the air/fuel mixture is better than several
randomly-ignited small flame fronts. When you can precisely control the
point at which the fuel will ignite, maximum performance of the engine
can be achieved, and power-robbing knock and ping will be eliminated.
Knock and ping are a result of abnormal ignition, or multiple flame
fronts colliding within the combustion chamber during the compression
stroke.

All reputable fuel manufacturers determine the octane rating of
their gasoline in the research lab using a special, dedicated single
cylinder engine. Comparing the gasoline to a series of standard
reference fuels in the test engine results in either a research octane
number (RON) or a motor octane number (MON) depending on a set of
operating conditions. The RON is determined with the test engine
operating at 600 rpm, at standard barometric pressure, and the intake
air temperature set at 125 degrees Fahrenheit. RON is primarily used to
address part-throttle knock and ping problems. The MON addresses wide
open throttle operation and is determined with the test engine spinning
at 900 rpm, also at standard barometric pressure, and the intake air
temperature pumped up to 300 degrees.

The best predictor of a fuel's performance in a street/strip
machine is the Anti-Knock index (AKI). This is simply the average of
the RON and MON numbers, or (RON + MON) / 2. Most all octane ratings
posted at the pumps are determined by this AKI formula, and are the
minimum values you could expect to see. The minimum octane requirement
of your engine is determined by several variables besides the
compression ratio. The engine and cylinder head configuration, air/fuel
mixture, timing, coolant temperature, atmospheric pressure, relative
humidity, and ambient air temperature will also affect the octane
required to make your mill produce maximum power.

The burn rate of a fuel is a measurement of the time required
for complete combustion of the air/fuel mixture. The notion that octane
ratings affect the burn rate of fuel is about 180-degrees from reality;
bum rate is a function of several variables, and the two are completely
independent, although there is generally a correlation between octane
ratings and bum rates.

To give you a good example of this, we contacted Jim Wurth from
Sunoco Race Fuels. He explains, "A perfect example is Sunoco Maximal,
which is our fastest burning fuel, and coincidentally one of Sunoco's
highest octane fuels at 116 (R+M) / 2. A lot of Pro Stock teams rely on
Maximal for those sub-seven second runs. When they are turning 9,000
rpm or more, the fuel has to burn pretty quickly to achieve complete
combustion."

Octane boosters offer little help in the quest for higher
octane. Most popular street-legal octane boosters claim increases in
octane ratings up to five points, and those boosters intended for
off-road use only claim up to seven points. That's a lot of octane to
hope for simply by pouring an additive in a tank. Sunoco told us that
before they launched their GT-100 Unleaded retail pilot program, they
wanted to be sure that a 100 (R+M) / 2 octane street legal fuel would be
of value, and that enthusiasts would not be able to get the same (or
better) results using an octane booster. Nine of the most popular
retail octane boosters were put through a series of tests to determine
where the consumer could get the most bang for the buck. The test
results were verified by an independent testing facility, using several
brands of regular unleaded and premium gasolines, just to make sure
everything was legit.

According to Mark Borosky, Vehicle Test Engineer for Sunoco, "Of
the nine octane boosters tested, none showed a significant increase, and
one actually lowered the octane number of the test gasolines." Testing
repeatedly showed a maximum increase in octane of 3.5 points by only two
of the six street legal octane boosters when the recommended treatment
rate was blended with lower base 87 octane gasoline. The best the
remaining four products could muster was less than a one point increase.
"While clearly no one would actually use an octane booster in a low base
octane fuel, we wanted to give the manufacturers the benefit of the
doubt relative to their claims of five-to-seven point increases,"
explained Borosky.

When tests were performed using 93 and 94 octane fuel, even the
two best products from the previous tests produced a disappointing 1.5
to 2 point maximum increase. The remaining four street-legal octane
boosters showed less than a .5 point increase. Those products
designated for offroad use only didn't fare any better than the
street-legal products. Subsequent tests where the dosage of octane
booster was doubled, tripled, and even quadrupled produced only minimal
improvements in octane, regardless of the base octane number of the test
gas. In fact, quadrupling the treatment rate of the most powerful
additive produced only a 3.5 point increase in octane when added to 93
premium, resulting in a cost of $3.25 a gallon.

An alternative path to octane euphoria is to blend gasolines of
different octane levels yourself. It's easier than you may think, safe,
and the results are predictable. The formula for mixing gasolines of
the same type is pretty straightforward. When you mix a 50/50 blend of
two unleaded fuels, simply average the two octane ratings to determine
what's in the tank If you mix 94 and 100, you get 97. The same
generally holds true for leaded gasolines, assuming the lead content is
nearly equal.

Blending a leaded fuel with unleaded, however, pushes the octane
up a bit more than the math would suggest, due to the effect of the
lead. Just a gram or two of lead blended into the unleaded fuel will
raise the octane number significantly. Commercial leaded racing fuels
contain anywhere from a trace to six grams of lead per gallon. If you
were to mix 50 percent 110 octane leaded fuel with 100 octane unleaded,
you would actually end up with an octane number around 106 to 107. Keep
in mind that even the smallest amount of lead or leaded gas line with
unleaded, could spell the end of your catalytic converter or oxygen
sensor. The same holds true for using octane boosters intended for
off-road use only. A word to the wise, check for any lead content in
all the additives you might mix with your unleaded gasoline. And check
with your state emissions regulations for street use.

We asked Sunoco's Wurth about using aviation fuel in an
automobile engine. He was emphatic when he said, "Don't do it. Even
though Sunoco is a major producer of aviation fuel, this fuel is
specifically blended for aircraft engines. Aircraft operate under very
different conditions than automobiles, and the fuel requirements are
quite different as well. Aircraft engines generally use very small
pistons and run with in a very narrow rpm range. There's no need for
transient throttle response in an airplane because after the pilot does
the initial engine run-up, the throttle is set in one position and the
rpm doesn't normally change until landing. Also, airplanes fly where
the air is cold and thin, and the atmospheric pressure is low. These
are not even close to the conditions your street machine will see on the
ground. Also, since most piston-driven aircraft cruise at 3,000 rpm or
so, the burn rate of aviation gas is much too slow for any high
performance automotive applications."

What is it that makes race gas so different? What's it made of?
Sunoco tells us their GT PLUS 104 octane unleaded race gas is only 15-20
percent traditional gasoline, and about 85 percent additives! Actually
there are about 120 different chemicals in GT PLUS. One reason it isn't
street legal is the high oxygen content. The EPA requires that the
oxygen content of a street legal fuel cannot exceed 2.9 percent. GT
PLUS is about 3.5 percent oxygen. This fuel is light in weight at only
6.14 lbs-per-gallon. The high oxygen content improves the octane, and
when the induction system is properly calibrated, this fuel will help
make additional horsepower. The high oxygen content has a supercharging
effect, since 3.5 percent oxygen is the equivalent to about 17 percent
more air. Different fuels can actually alter horsepower 5-to-10 percent
or more.

We wanted to to know more about the different types of race gas
Sunoco had, and didn't realize there were five different types of racing
fuel alone.

GT-100 Unleaded, is a clear fuel with a pump octane of 100, and
will handle compression ratios of up to 12:1, and is street legal in all
50 states.

GT PLUS, is also unleaded, and is rated at 104 octane. It is
suitable for compression ratios up to 14:1 and is colored light blue.
It will not harm oxygen sensors or knock sensors in computer controlled
engines. It is not street legal.

STANDARD, is a leaded fuel rated at 110 octane, is colored
purple, and is intended for drag racing, road racing, and race boats.

SUPREME, is also a leaded fuel and is dark blue. It was
developed to help resist vapor lock and meet the demands of sportsman,
modifieds, offshore powerboats, and endurance racing where engines
regularly run in excess of 7000 rpm.

MAXIMAL, we mentioned earlier, is colored red, has 116 octane,
and is leaded. It is intended for exceptionally high performance
applications like Pro Stock where extremely high cylinder pressures are
common. Its extremely fast burn rate is satisfactory where rpm exceeds
10,000.

Now that you're an expert on gasolines, you probably would like
to know where to buy and store the stuff. If you are fortunate enough
to live in the mid-Atlantic states, you can take advantage of Sunoco's
GT-100 Unleaded retail pilot program and get 100 octane race fuel at
pumps located at select Sunoco stations. The rest of us have to
purchase from local speed shops, at race tracks, or directly from Sunoco
distributors.

When you plan on buying fuel in quantity, say a 55-gallon drum,
you'll be happy to know that racing fuel has a shelf life of about a
year, if you store it properly. The container must conform to all
safety standards, and should be made from metal or polymer. Make sure
the container is opaque and solid in color. The white plastic jugs we
see at the track should be used for short-term storage only. They let
in sunlight, which will affect the fuel. The lead in leaded fuel and
other chemicals in unleaded fuel are photosensitive, and will dissipate
if they am exposed to the sun. Keep any container tightly sealed to
prevent evaporation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

M.A.R.C.

you da man liam!

MachAF

That guy had some wrong information about Avgas colors:

100LL is BLUE not GREEN.

Avgas 115/145 (PURPLE)
Avgas 100/130 (GREEN)
Avgas 100LL (BLUE)
Avgas 80/87 (RED)
Jet Fuel (Jet A, JP, JP8) (CLEAR)

100LL is very common and you'll find it at ANY airport that has fuel. I have never seen anything besides 100LL and Jet A at airports.

I wouldn't reccomend mixing Avgas in your garage. Avgas smells a lot worse than normal gas. Small little wiffs of it can get you buzzing.

boosted92

IMO, an easier thing to use is an alcohol/water injection kit. It has a small nozzle, similar to a nitrous nozzle, and it only starts to spray once you hit X amount of boost, or at WOT on a naturally aspirated car. It really works too, I have a snow performance dual nozzle kit with a 4-gallon cell in the trunk for the alcohol, going to be spraying it on my soon-to-be turbo mustang, I'm hoping to be able to run 22-23 PSI on 91 octane and a 70/30 mix of meth/water for the injection kit, on an 8:1 compression motor. Lots of turbo buick guys run 110 octane chips on 93 octane and alcohol with great success as well.

liam821

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MachAF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That guy had some wrong information about Avgas colors:

100LL is BLUE not GREEN.

Avgas 115/145 (PURPLE)
Avgas 100/130 (GREEN)
Avgas 100LL (BLUE)
Avgas 80/87 (RED)
Jet Fuel (Jet A, JP, JP8) (CLEAR)

100LL is very common and you'll find it at ANY airport that has fuel. I have never seen anything besides 100LL and Jet A at airports.

I wouldn't reccomend mixing Avgas in your garage. Avgas smells a lot worse than normal gas. Small little wiffs of it can get you buzzing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea i noticed that too...although i didnt want to change his post since i didnt write it. Ive never smelt it before...maybe in my backyard and not the garage!

liam821

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO, an easier thing to use is an alcohol/water injection kit. It has a small nozzle, similar to a nitrous nozzle, and it only starts to spray once you hit X amount of boost, or at WOT on a naturally aspirated car. It really works too, I have a snow performance dual nozzle kit with a 4-gallon cell in the trunk for the alcohol, going to be spraying it on my soon-to-be turbo mustang, I'm hoping to be able to run 22-23 PSI on 91 octane and a 70/30 mix of meth/water for the injection kit, on an 8:1 compression motor. Lots of turbo buick guys run 110
octane chips on 93 octane and alcohol with great success as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats a really good idea! Ill have to think about this setup too. Thanks for the idea!

liam

boosted92

check out http://www.turbobuick.com, there's literally thousands of turbo V6 guys there running alcohol kits, and if you want to buy a premade kit check out http://smcenterprises.com/ http://www.aquamist.co.uk/ or http://www.snowperformance.net/ they're all top notch kits.

liam821

I have an aquamist system..although it was setup for secondary injectors..but i bet i could modify that. hhrrrmmm ideas ideas ideas

liam

Drew Peacock

I use the 100LL Mobil race gas, it has .58 grams of lead per litre normal Avgas has 5.8 grams of lead per litre. I have dyno'd my car using the Mobil Race gas as its called here, and it stopped detonation I was able to raise the boost from 8psi to 10psi and made good power I was detonating before hand on 98 octane pump gas at 8psi.
Question I have is where can you buy an oxygen sensor that can take leaded fuel and will the car still run fine with it?

larraw

1 of all, sorry about my shitty english..... i am from brazil.....

i have a eg6 with a b16 a2...

i plan to turbo these motor and run about 1 bar.....( stock internals)
i will use alchool as fuel.....
my car hass a p30g00 ecu.. is edm maps, and i run daily with 75%gas and 25% (these is to all gas here in brazil)
alchool and goes fine...stock pump i has more than 10 years and still running....


so alchool here is a cheaper and safe exit to turbo cars....
here is easy to find VW 2.0 liters, running stock internal with 1.5 to 2 bar, and biuld motors with with 3 to 3.5 bar and no intercooler..... using alchool...
also is easy to find NA cars with 14 to 15 CR...

liam821

I wonder if i can find a bulk alchool suppler...mmm...Anybody have any idea of cost?

liam

larraw

i dint have these problem in brazil...
any station gas have alchool, it cost less then the half price of the gas....

about 0.30 dollars per liter...

and the gas is about 0.80 dollars per liter...

Blindstuff

You should come to venezuela, gas is 95 octane and costs $ 0.0421 per litre

xci_ed6

Just a note, my friends (DJ0820) dad works at the airport, and when they drain the tanks they can't recycle the gas, so he gets 100LL for free. They run it in their mowers, snowmobiles, and occaisonally their cars. It is blue, and it is cool to put it in glass jars and throw them in a fire.

-Dustin

saso

ok this no lie I was washing down my garage with my power washer when I ran out of fuel. Guess what I had to use.....c16, guess who had to buy a new power washer