high compression + turbo
I've got an LS with 11:1 pistons. I'll be going turbo in about 4 days. I've got everything I need except piping. I'm using the turbo and manifold from the DRAG GEN 3 kit. I'll be having Hondata and 750cc injectors installed the same day my piping is made. I've already had an STR block guard installed. I've pretty much covered my tracks for now. I can't find hardly anyone out there that's boosted with compression this high or higher. I'm not saying nobody has, I just can't find any stories about it. So hopefully one of the few that have done something like this will read this topic. Now for the question...
"How much boost do you think I'll be able to safely run, and in the same hand, how high would my limit be. I KNOW HIGH COMPRESSION AND BOOST ISN'T THE TRADITIONAL SETUP, AND THAT IT'S MORE DANGEROUS, SO I DON'T NEED ANYONE TELLING ME THAT THIS IS A DUMB IDEA. YOU WILL BE WASTING YOUR TIME REMINDING ME. Like I said, I'm asking this to the people that have done this before. What kind of fuel grade will I need to be running? And to those of you that have done a setup like this, what were your numbers looking like?"
"How much boost do you think I'll be able to safely run, and in the same hand, how high would my limit be. I KNOW HIGH COMPRESSION AND BOOST ISN'T THE TRADITIONAL SETUP, AND THAT IT'S MORE DANGEROUS, SO I DON'T NEED ANYONE TELLING ME THAT THIS IS A DUMB IDEA. YOU WILL BE WASTING YOUR TIME REMINDING ME. Like I said, I'm asking this to the people that have done this before. What kind of fuel grade will I need to be running? And to those of you that have done a setup like this, what were your numbers looking like?"
I'd say keep the boost low (depending on how built the engine is.) and have faith in your tuner.
I don't see anything wrong with high compression and boost as long as you have proper tuning.....
I don't see anything wrong with high compression and boost as long as you have proper tuning.....
Well it can be done, it's just not as safe as using lower compression. I only put in the warning in the last post, because i've had so many people say I'm stupid, or, your motor's gonna blow. you know, one of those really un-educated answers...
Any ways, I'm just kinda trying to find out what i'm getting into, and what kind of numbers i can be expecting. Also, i wanna know some of the things i should be looking out for.
I'd really like to hear some stories from people that have experience in this field. storied from people that have actually boosted this high compression or even higher. One of my best friends has 12:1 + turbo, and for 2 months now he hasn't had any problems other than eating oil like no other.
Just give me some stories people...
Any and all comments (unless negative) are appreciated and welcome!
Thanks!
Any ways, I'm just kinda trying to find out what i'm getting into, and what kind of numbers i can be expecting. Also, i wanna know some of the things i should be looking out for.
I'd really like to hear some stories from people that have experience in this field. storied from people that have actually boosted this high compression or even higher. One of my best friends has 12:1 + turbo, and for 2 months now he hasn't had any problems other than eating oil like no other.
Just give me some stories people...
Any and all comments (unless negative) are appreciated and welcome!
Thanks!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hulkhb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">high(er) c/r + boost is a blast. tune it right and you'll be good, (low boost)</TD></TR></TABLE>
20 bucks says it's not nearly as fun as a 9:1 motor and feeding it three times the boost.
I say keep it 8 psi or below and you should be safe on a good tune with premium pump gas.
20 bucks says it's not nearly as fun as a 9:1 motor and feeding it three times the boost.
I say keep it 8 psi or below and you should be safe on a good tune with premium pump gas.
its all personal prefference man really. I have seen both and personaly i like a big(er) turbo with little lag and still crazy top end.
I too wouldn't go over 8psi
I too wouldn't go over 8psi
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So is premium gonna be absolutely necessary, no questions asked? I mean I figured that's what I would go with, but is it absolutely necessary? Also, I've been researching oil and stuff, and it sounds like the better choice for turbo is gonna be Synthetic 15w-30. Anyone have any comments on this?
Any Horsepower guesses for my setup?
Any Horsepower guesses for my setup?
5-6 psi on sunoco 94. Keep max timing under 15-16 degrees on your 6 psi boost collums. Run it rich, under 11:1. You don't loose *that* much power, I run richer than that FWIW.
Every engine detonates a little bit. Higher compression motors are a lot more prone to detonating. Detonation is what ultimatley renders an engine useless in 90% of the cases. You're adding a turbo on top of the mix. For a street car that has to live 100K miles thats how I'd set it up. Also keep a few bucks on the side. A turbo motor is very sensitive to equipment failure (IE: fuel system malfunction). A high compression + turbo motor is even more sensitive.
EDIT:
Get the biggest wastegate setup you can fit. You need to bypass as much exhaust gasses as possible to keep the boost from creeping when trying to run low boost. Also a bigger AR turbine housing alleviates some of the "backpressure" of a more "stuffy" .48 AR housing or simillar. Backpressure is always bad on a turbo motor and causes reversion of the exhaust gasses. Excessive valve duration also causes reversion. Reversion makes a motor much more prone to detonation.
Every engine detonates a little bit. Higher compression motors are a lot more prone to detonating. Detonation is what ultimatley renders an engine useless in 90% of the cases. You're adding a turbo on top of the mix. For a street car that has to live 100K miles thats how I'd set it up. Also keep a few bucks on the side. A turbo motor is very sensitive to equipment failure (IE: fuel system malfunction). A high compression + turbo motor is even more sensitive.
EDIT:
Get the biggest wastegate setup you can fit. You need to bypass as much exhaust gasses as possible to keep the boost from creeping when trying to run low boost. Also a bigger AR turbine housing alleviates some of the "backpressure" of a more "stuffy" .48 AR housing or simillar. Backpressure is always bad on a turbo motor and causes reversion of the exhaust gasses. Excessive valve duration also causes reversion. Reversion makes a motor much more prone to detonation.
run your high compression.
Im running 10.5:1 compression on my setup.
i should be running like 8psi as my low boost and 13psi as high boost on the street. I figuer that it should be a good streeet setup.
Im running 10.5:1 compression on my setup.
i should be running like 8psi as my low boost and 13psi as high boost on the street. I figuer that it should be a good streeet setup.
Could somebody please explain to me what the point of two boost settings for the street are. You should tune your motor to run as much boost as you can without detonating. Whats the point of the higher boost setting. Is that the one you use for racing at the sake of your motors health.
If the point is to limit traction that is easilly accomplised by the right foot. I run 20 psi in the summer and 20 psi in the winter on ice.
If the point is to limit traction that is easilly accomplised by the right foot. I run 20 psi in the summer and 20 psi in the winter on ice.
Well if there's anyone in the DFW area that's rolling turbocharged with some high compression pistons, roll on down to Honda Cars of Mckinney and show me what you've got. I'd love to hear from some other boosted hondas in the DFW area...
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Whether it is the right way or the wrong way it doesn't matter, you can do high compression w/ boost on a honda engine. Tuning has to be perfect and room for error is very slim. There are already a few high compression hondas in the dfw that have made 400whp on pump gas. Allen from HondaHeavan did a lil over 400 @ about 13psi w/ his 10:1 gsr last year. Stoney @ vsv in carrollton had a 10.5:1 2.0L ls/vtec that was able to put out 400whp on pump gas @ 10psi. Bulldogg83 also from dfw is pushing 10.5:1 gsr pistons in his b16(we think hes got about 10:1 comp.) and is also making 400whp on pump gas @ 16psi. Be confident, high compression w/ boost can work well as long as it is tuned right.
Good to hear! Yeah actually Stoney from VSV is going to be the one that is gonna fab all my piping and then dyno tune my car, that is after the Hondata and 750cc injectors go on. I'm hella psyched! But good to know there are lots of people around here that are doing somewhat the same. At least I'll have a few people to look for if I have any problems. Thanks for the input guys!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIRep972 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whether it is the right way or the wrong way it doesn't matter, you can do high compression w/ boost on a honda engine. Tuning has to be perfect and room for error is very slim. There are already a few high compression hondas in the dfw that have made 400whp on pump gas. Allen from HondaHeavan did a lil over 400 @ about 13psi w/ his 10:1 gsr last year. Stoney @ vsv in carrollton had a 10.5:1 2.0L ls/vtec that was able to put out 400whp on pump gas @ 10psi. Bulldogg83 also from dfw is pushing 10.5:1 gsr pistons in his b16(we think hes got about 10:1 comp.) and is also making 400whp on pump gas @ 16psi. Be confident, high compression w/ boost can work well as long as it is tuned right.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow i didnt know somemany guys ran that high compression in the dallas area. im gald they are making 400whp on 10.5:1. at least i know what i can shoot for when i get my car done.
wow i didnt know somemany guys ran that high compression in the dallas area. im gald they are making 400whp on 10.5:1. at least i know what i can shoot for when i get my car done.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soon_2b_evil »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wow i didnt know somemany guys ran that high compression in the dallas area. im gald they are making 400whp on 10.5:1. at least i know what i can shoot for when i get my car done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeh, there are a couple more making even more on low compression..
wow i didnt know somemany guys ran that high compression in the dallas area. im gald they are making 400whp on 10.5:1. at least i know what i can shoot for when i get my car done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeh, there are a couple more making even more on low compression..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIRep972 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeh, there are a couple more making even more on low compression.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah well thats low compression. I like my 10.5:1 compression i think its neat-o and when im running someone and i beat them i just tell them its at 8psi and they call me a liaer.
yeh, there are a couple more making even more on low compression.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah well thats low compression. I like my 10.5:1 compression i think its neat-o and when im running someone and i beat them i just tell them its at 8psi and they call me a liaer.
488whp with 10.5:1 83mm GSR at 16psi on race gas before the turbo took a crap on us. When the new turbo gets here, going back to VSV to finish tuning in the 20-24psi range
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could somebody please explain to me what the point of two boost settings for the street are. You should tune your motor to run as much boost as you can without detonating. Whats the point of the higher boost setting. Is that the one you use for racing at the sake of your motors health.
If the point is to limit traction that is easilly accomplised by the right foot. I run 20 psi in the summer and 20 psi in the winter on ice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Look at the positive side of things. When you rebuild a motor over and over you get really good at it.
If the point is to limit traction that is easilly accomplised by the right foot. I run 20 psi in the summer and 20 psi in the winter on ice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Look at the positive side of things. When you rebuild a motor over and over you get really good at it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Look at the positive side of things. When you rebuild a motor over and over you get really good at it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ha ha, but look at it from my angle. Unlike everybody else here I have a mitsubishi. To get the motor out I've gotta move a LOT of stuff out of the way first. I'd just rather keep what I have alive.
Now when I rebult my sisters civic, heck that was easy. I threw the car up on ramps, pulled the oil pan and head and did it in the car. Bought OEM honda bearings of the exact same color for the rods and they speced out perfectly. Thanks for making it so easy honda
.
Look at the positive side of things. When you rebuild a motor over and over you get really good at it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ha ha, but look at it from my angle. Unlike everybody else here I have a mitsubishi. To get the motor out I've gotta move a LOT of stuff out of the way first. I'd just rather keep what I have alive.
Now when I rebult my sisters civic, heck that was easy. I threw the car up on ramps, pulled the oil pan and head and did it in the car. Bought OEM honda bearings of the exact same color for the rods and they speced out perfectly. Thanks for making it so easy honda
.
you may want to look at propane injection and/or water(w/ or w/o methanol) injection.
they both have a good effect on that kind of setup, allowing you to advance more your timing OR putting more boost at the same timing, anyway more power
might want to look there http://www.h2oinjection.com/
they both have a good effect on that kind of setup, allowing you to advance more your timing OR putting more boost at the same timing, anyway more power
might want to look there http://www.h2oinjection.com/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JSMC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you may want to look at propane injection and/or water(w/ or w/o methanol) injection.
they both have a good effect on that kind of setup, allowing you to advance more your timing OR putting more boost at the same timing, anyway more power
might want to look there http://www.h2oinjection.com/</TD></TR></TABLE>
But why should you have to baind-aide your motor? I used to run water injection when I didn't have the fueling system to do what I wanted. Yes, i got 1-2mph gain in my quarter mile but it was such a hassle. Filling up the water all the time. Tuning the car with the water on. The warning systems I had to design to alert me when the water wasn't working. The complexity of the water plumbing and wiring. Don't get me wrong, water does work, but its not amazing. Provided me with maybe 15-20 additional hp.
they both have a good effect on that kind of setup, allowing you to advance more your timing OR putting more boost at the same timing, anyway more power
might want to look there http://www.h2oinjection.com/</TD></TR></TABLE>
But why should you have to baind-aide your motor? I used to run water injection when I didn't have the fueling system to do what I wanted. Yes, i got 1-2mph gain in my quarter mile but it was such a hassle. Filling up the water all the time. Tuning the car with the water on. The warning systems I had to design to alert me when the water wasn't working. The complexity of the water plumbing and wiring. Don't get me wrong, water does work, but its not amazing. Provided me with maybe 15-20 additional hp.



