ek_si808

Here's my build thread and review on the GO-AUTOWORKS street X kit.

Car:
2000 civic EX coupe.
Car is daily driven on 92PUMP gas with AC and PS!

Motor:
block: b18c1
-JE/srp pistons 11:3.1 compression ratio(81.5mm)
-eagle H-beam rods with arp rod bolts
-crank was balanced/polished
-gsr oil pan
-gsr oil pump
-ARP head bolts*
-oem head gasket*
-spec 3 clutch
-resurfaced/balanced gsr flywheel
-2000 gsr crank pulley

head: p72 gsr*
-skunk2 pro 1 camshafts
-skunk2 cam gears
-ID 1000cc
-portflow titanium dual valve springs n retainers*
-head was hot tanked and pressure tested for leaks*
-skunk2 intake manifold
-skunk2 vtec solenoid cover*
-obd2 gsr throttle body
-ngk spark plugs and wires

Turbo kit:
GO-AUTOWORKS STREET X KIT..

Aem boost gauge/controller
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Tuned on hondata s300

At this point in time we ran into problems... The kit doesnt come with a flange for the down pipe. Guessing because most people just straight weld it to their piping. No manifold gasket. And 1 clamp was already broken to begin with. Couple other things that I don't recall....

Then after 2 week we finally got to dyno. I don't have te dyno graph but I was only making 199.89HP on 5lbs. Of boost on the dyno jet with no VTEC engagement because when it hit VTEC it fell on the dyno then picked up.. Luckily someone who came into the shop needed the pro1 cams I had for his all motor set-up and he had the cams I needed, ITR cams!

I took the car home with the 199HP setting and drove it around for 3weeks. Car had potential for such little power. Took the car back into the shop to finally do the cam swap.

Ran into more problems... My greedy timing belt had skipped on the dyno... So I bought a new OEM timing belt and tensioner. Luckily the motor was still healthy putting 230 on the compression test.

After hours of tuning we finally got some numbers.

Car made 276HP and 189tq on 10lbs of boost!

And the problems didn't stop there! We couldn't understand why when VTEC engaged, did it fall flat... But when engaged it kicks really hard.. Also drove the car for less then 3 days and the manifold inlet gasket blew. How? Well the kit came with open ended nuts and screws. The vibration loosened the nuts causing the gasket to warp. Called Greg and he said he'll give me a replacement gasket just pay for shipping.. I ended up not getting it because the shop had thicker gaskets I could run.

Here's the pics of the engine bay with the kit!



All in all Greg from GO-AUTOWORKS provided great customer service with great pricing since I ordered a lot of parts from him! There were some fall backs on some things but everything came together.

The street X kit is a really great kit. The Borg Warner S200 turbo spools really quick! I would recommend this kit to anyone whose thinking about going through Greg for his kit who are looking to make decent numbers!

Future changeout consists of changing the head gasket to a INLINE PRO 3m gasket and maybe run meth...

thanks for reading and chime in if you got something to say! Lol

OneBadTurboCRV

Sounds more like poor installation/user error. If the tuner had no clue why stuff was happening - that isn't a good sign. You can't exactly review something when you obviously have no clue what you are doing...

ek_si808

So poor installation of open ended nuts are installation error? That's the only problem I went through with the kit. That doesn't sound right.. And we didn't even use the clamp, it was broken when inspected..

He's a well known tuner on the Island. He just hasn't ran into such a problem. It may be the cause of the cams being retarded... He could understand but was unsure since my motor also did that with the pro1... Or could e that I need to change my cam gears...

Thanks for the opinion tho!

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

Obviously tuning failure, that set up should have been pumping out 400 whp with an hour or two of tuning. If it was falling on its face at vtec engagement and the tuner had a hard time fixing that, then he must not tune very many hondas.

Why are you only running 10 psi of boost? There is no need for a thicker head gasket, just a better tuner.

ek_si808

Cuz at 12psi it started to knock. No he has done many fast cars on the island.. Mines was just... Different because he didn't do the N/A part of it... So he did a build that was handed to him since I changed tuners..

lovehondas

Where are you from by the way, you keep referring that you live on a island. Nice setup by the way.

ek_si808

Hawaii

ek_si808

Thanks btw.

B16B Four Door

What island are you on bu? And what shop did you go to? I live on the big island and there aren't many shops with a dyno but there are plenty of people I know that could street tune and get better numbers then that...

K7-1Ktrevor

did the tuner try setting vtec lower then what its at on the graph? also it looks like it could use some timing up top.

LightningTeg

That should be up over 300whp easy with that setup. Graph also looks real choppy with all that smoothing too. What plugs are you running?

DDTECH

Cams aren't ideal either..

What are the gears set at?

civickiller

i agree with ALL MOTOR that cams arent ideal. i think the itr cams would be better
lower vtec to stock 5250
hours of tuning, you guys dont street tune before dyno?

hp numbers a little low as to show my 160cr, b16 cammed, stock lsvtec 266whp 160tq 8psi not hitting max hp, just put my numbers up just to show that your motor should be making way more power

Meighty7

Nice setup man and nice looking bay... your numbers seem low though for what you are running bro, might wanna check out a different tuner just my opinion.

ek_si808

From Oahu. I went to sonics.....

ek_si808

The tuner tried everything possible to place vtec. High and low it would fall. This is where he got it do it wouldn't drop.

I'm running ngk part#4554.... Forgot what type...

I have ITR cams.. Are they not ideal?

ek_si808

Thanks man.

civickiller

list says pro1's

is it pro1's or itr in the motor?

lsneo

Later on it says he changed them to itr

LightningTeg

Those are 8 Range plugs. Those are probably a bit cold. Most people run 7's until the 400 range. You'd probably pick up a good amount of power going to 7's and the car would run smoother.

But I would check the plugs immediately after doing a pull to confirm that.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

Agreed on the plugs, run a 7 heat range, gap them at about 25 thousandths, and I like to index them so the opening is facing the exhaust valves.


If its knocking at 12 psi, you can just pull out more timing and still run higher boost to make more power, there is a certain point where pulling to much timing to increase boost becomes counter productive, but I doubt you were at that point knocking on 12 psi.

Another thing you should look into because of your high static c/r is if E85 is available in your area. If you switch to E85 you will be able to run more boost without knock, and you already have the pump and injectors to support E85.

soy-sauce

Wow, my friends b18 similar build but with 10:1.1 and ls head made 463whp @ 22psi, granted were in the lower 48 with plenty of dynos and tuning available. Oh and cornjuice...

cheapturbo

funny that every post I see of yours is trying to sell someone on cams...
you are so helpful, yet only seem to know the "fix" if you can sell it to them lol

------------------------

he has problems with the ignition timing, just by looking at the choppy powercurve. seems like the tuner needs to focus on the maps and clean them up.. probly needs to check the timing sync before starting aswell

OP, can you post up screen captures of your "tune"?

that would allow people to help you, without the confusion of trying to sell you on some parts that aren't going to fix your problem or you don't need.

ITR cams are more than enough for the powerlevels you are looking to achieve.

DDTECH

Never once do i push products or anything on people.. I let my customers, and my results speak for themselves.. dont compare me to other companies who shove products down peoples throat.

99% of the time, Cam gears are set wrong or the centerlines aren't even close, people need to look a little deeper into why a camshaft is so important rather then just throwing in some all motor cams thinking you're making the most efficient power. I've been on this forum since it started, and I've given out thousands of dollars worth of help over the phone, internet, txt and also by helping people learn about tuning. What works and what doesn't.. Most people wont even go that far, you're obviously getting the wrong picture and need to search a little bit more before you think you "know me".

The Cam's are a fine bases for starting, but they aren't optimal.. I've said that a number of times.

civickiller

we dont have pump e85, only imported drums which i think is the worst idea for our state by not producing it here

eksi808
what are your afr's?
what is the timing retard/psi set at?