help t25 zc not boosting
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help t25 zc not boosting
I just put my t25 on my zc today and got to drive around. I have a built zc engine zdyne ecu, a dsm 2g bov and starion IC. I can hear the bov. I can also see the boost gauge go from 20inHg at idle to 0-1psi at wide open throttle. I don't have any exhust hooked up right now, not even a dp. I believe that i have all of my vacuum lines hooked up right. What are some common mistakes? What are some good ways to check and see if maybe i have a leak in my piping.
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Re: help t25 zc not boosting (VTgringo)
I need some sort of reply. I know there are some people that know about rookie mistakes...spill anything. i need some help
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Re: (FAUCON)
I don't have pics now.......but i can take some tomorow and post them. I reused the exh gasket and i also have some pretty shady junkyard rubber hoses on the compressed side of the turbo.
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Re: (VTgringo)
ok, well first. hook up your exhaust. then you can hear the turbo spool. where do you have your boost gauge ran to? which vacuum line? where do you have the vacuum lines ran to coming off of the turbo housing and the wastegate actuator?
if you can hear the turbo spooling really loud but no boost showing on the gauge, that means there is a leak at a pipe. what kind of rubber pipe connectors did you use? i know my greddy ones are some special stuff thats real tough and cant tear. but i was using one rubber plumbing connector that was thick rubber...... when i tightened the clamp down real tight after blowning a pipe off... the clamp ripped a inch long slice through the rubber, couldnt see it cuz it was where the pipe connects to the turbo and on the block side... but when boost came out, it shot straight out that hole and i heard the turbo over boosting real bad.
hook up the exhaust so you can hear the turbo. or, while the car is off, hook up a hose cap to the pipe where the air filter goes.... put a compressor on it and pump it up like a tire.. until it reads 5-10psi..... you'll hear the air leaking out somewhere wherever there is a leak, cuz that puts all of the pressure into your pipes...might be easier with a friend helping you to listen and feel for air rushing while you are keeping the low pressure in it. good luck
if you can hear the turbo spooling really loud but no boost showing on the gauge, that means there is a leak at a pipe. what kind of rubber pipe connectors did you use? i know my greddy ones are some special stuff thats real tough and cant tear. but i was using one rubber plumbing connector that was thick rubber...... when i tightened the clamp down real tight after blowning a pipe off... the clamp ripped a inch long slice through the rubber, couldnt see it cuz it was where the pipe connects to the turbo and on the block side... but when boost came out, it shot straight out that hole and i heard the turbo over boosting real bad.
hook up the exhaust so you can hear the turbo. or, while the car is off, hook up a hose cap to the pipe where the air filter goes.... put a compressor on it and pump it up like a tire.. until it reads 5-10psi..... you'll hear the air leaking out somewhere wherever there is a leak, cuz that puts all of the pressure into your pipes...might be easier with a friend helping you to listen and feel for air rushing while you are keeping the low pressure in it. good luck
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Re: help t25 zc not boosting (VTgringo)
I'd find another vac line source for your gauge. You said you can hear your bov so 'soemthing' is happening...
1. put the boost gauge line somewhere else
2. more info pls
1. put the boost gauge line somewhere else
2. more info pls
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Re: (SOHC Beast)
ok here is some information
1. vacuum line on bov is hooked up between the map sensor and the manifold.
2. vacuum line for boost gauge is hooked up to the manifold/throttlebody line
3. the t25 just had two nipples. i connected the one on the wastegate to the one on the compressor side of the turbo.
thanks for the suggestions......i can't wait to get boosted
1. vacuum line on bov is hooked up between the map sensor and the manifold.
2. vacuum line for boost gauge is hooked up to the manifold/throttlebody line
3. the t25 just had two nipples. i connected the one on the wastegate to the one on the compressor side of the turbo.
thanks for the suggestions......i can't wait to get boosted
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Re: (sporkcrx)
i would move the vacum source for the bov somewhere else. Maybe its just me but I had problems when I had my bov ran off the map vacum , but I think it was because of the check valves. is your check engine light on, any codes.....map.....anything. Is your wastegate vacum coming of the compressor or intake manifold. Just try changing stuff up and seeing what it does, trail and error.
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Re: (Jdm_Fast_Orange)
for charge piping, either redo all of the piping all over (ie: take it off and put it all back together) or use a mixture of soap and water on the connections to look for leaks. it'll bubble up if there's air leaking. good luck
#12
You need to put on your down pipe and exhaust.
My down pipe came loose from my exhaust at it was a straight dump, turbo spinnig like crazy, it can be bad for your turbo with out that.
I would put on your dp and exhaust then see what happens.
My down pipe came loose from my exhaust at it was a straight dump, turbo spinnig like crazy, it can be bad for your turbo with out that.
I would put on your dp and exhaust then see what happens.
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Re: (VTgringo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTgringo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok here is some information
1. vacuum line on bov is hooked up between the map sensor and the manifold.
2. vacuum line for boost gauge is hooked up to the manifold/throttlebody line
3. the t25 just had two nipples. i connected the one on the wastegate to the one on the compressor side of the turbo.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok.... on my setup.... i have the wastegate actuator nipple ran to my manual boost controller, then the hose coming off of the boost controller is T'd in with the top nipple of my BOV. (greddy type-s) . the line on the top nipple of the BOV goes across and is T'd into the vacuum line for the FPR. I also have my boost gauge tapped into that same vacuum. boost gauge going to anything hooked up to the charcoal canister wont read correctly. i have the bottom nipple on my BOV hooked up to the compressor housing. in my experience with the same turbo... if you hook up your wastegate actuator to the compressor housing... you'll lose boost tope end, like the gauge will start going back down. but, if you dont have a boost controller, or a greddy BOV.... then leave it where you have it. it should still boost. and you can T in your boost gauge with that line going from the compressor to the wastegate. it will read how much boost the turbo is spooling, but not necessarily how much is getting into your engine. I.E. if you have a leak somewhere.
i would change the vacuum going to the MAP line. leave the rest alone for now. put your exhaust stuff back toegther... get a big pipe cap (solid peice of rubber for plumbing that caps off a hole. cut a tiny hold in the middle, buy a valve stem, put it through that hole. use a clamp to clamp the rubber around the valve stem so it doesnt leak, use a clamp to clamp the cap onto the air intake pipe. engine off, thorottle closed.... put a little pressure in it and check for the air leaking. i have no doubts you have a bad leak somewhere...youll be able to hear it blowing out. or you may have a dead turbo?
1. vacuum line on bov is hooked up between the map sensor and the manifold.
2. vacuum line for boost gauge is hooked up to the manifold/throttlebody line
3. the t25 just had two nipples. i connected the one on the wastegate to the one on the compressor side of the turbo.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok.... on my setup.... i have the wastegate actuator nipple ran to my manual boost controller, then the hose coming off of the boost controller is T'd in with the top nipple of my BOV. (greddy type-s) . the line on the top nipple of the BOV goes across and is T'd into the vacuum line for the FPR. I also have my boost gauge tapped into that same vacuum. boost gauge going to anything hooked up to the charcoal canister wont read correctly. i have the bottom nipple on my BOV hooked up to the compressor housing. in my experience with the same turbo... if you hook up your wastegate actuator to the compressor housing... you'll lose boost tope end, like the gauge will start going back down. but, if you dont have a boost controller, or a greddy BOV.... then leave it where you have it. it should still boost. and you can T in your boost gauge with that line going from the compressor to the wastegate. it will read how much boost the turbo is spooling, but not necessarily how much is getting into your engine. I.E. if you have a leak somewhere.
i would change the vacuum going to the MAP line. leave the rest alone for now. put your exhaust stuff back toegther... get a big pipe cap (solid peice of rubber for plumbing that caps off a hole. cut a tiny hold in the middle, buy a valve stem, put it through that hole. use a clamp to clamp the rubber around the valve stem so it doesnt leak, use a clamp to clamp the cap onto the air intake pipe. engine off, thorottle closed.... put a little pressure in it and check for the air leaking. i have no doubts you have a bad leak somewhere...youll be able to hear it blowing out. or you may have a dead turbo?
#16
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Re: (sporkcrx)
I'll try and get some in tomorrow.......i still need to tune my ecu, its a zdyne. does anyone have any suggestions on what i am tuning for. I want to just smooth some things out and all i have to go by is an a/f gauge.
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Re: (VTgringo)
well i wouldnt go by the a/f gauge... especially an autometer one. unless you have a wideband 02.... your not getting an accurate enough reading to try and tune it yourself. i would say go to a local tuner than can use a wide band and let you make some dyno runs! but im not familiar with the zdyne or how it works? good luck.... go through the rest of your fittings and make sure everything is tight everywhere else. i had a tiny leak at my bov flange.... never knew it, when i would shift it would have a very short down time before it pulled hard again and hit full boost ( when racing through gears) . fixed that leak and it made it hit full boost about 300 rpm sooner.
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