Heres the info.. Its a stock gsr with turbo runing 9lbs.. I recently took out the head because it was making a ticking noise from the head. I did a compression test and it was 180 for 1,2 and 140 for 3, 4th piston. Heres some pictures.. Let me know what you guys think.. I'm lost on what to change. The motor smokes only during boost. with no boost is was fine. It was losing power in lowend but felt like n/a during boost. it would pull but only after 5k. any info is apprecaited.. thanks in advance.

Heres a video of how the motor sounded before It was pulled
http://s69.photobucket.com/alb...g.flv

cyc4

cylc3

cycr2

cyclinder1

All the valves look like this


Valves4

Valves3

Valves2

Valves1



Modified by ek_b16 at 8:54 AM 11/26/2007


Modified by ek_b16 at 8:55 AM 11/26/2007

 

wtf, you have bad rings in 3 and 4 how is that hard to figure out? hence the low compression on those two and the smoking under boost.

worse case scenario you'll need new pistons rings and an overbore.

best case scenario you just need new rings.

either way i'd get new pistons/rings and overbore if i was you.

 

any other opinons?? I'm thinking its the rings or valve seals...

 

vlave seals wont effect compression that much.
ur rings are beat

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93supercoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vlave seals wont effect compression that much.
ur rings are beat</TD></TR></TABLE>

When the piston comes up, both valves close, and this builds compression. If your valve doesn't seat properly, then all your compression is lost through the valve because it is stuck open a little bit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

When the piston comes up, both valves close, and this builds compression. If your valve doesn't seat properly, then all your compression is lost through the valve because it is stuck open a little bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

true but usually the valve guide seals go, the valve shoudent have any problem seating, thats not really a common problem at least in my experience...

either way a leak down test should help clear the air.

 

Leak down test is the best way to find out.

Also, drop a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder with bad compression and re-do the comp. test. If the number goes up, it's most likely the rings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

either way a leak down test should help clear the air.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The head is already off the block.. Its too late for a leak down test now. I need to know exactly if possible from experience where you would put your money at because i'm on a low budget and dont wanna replace parts that dont need replace.

 

Well, since the head is off, check the valve seats and make sure they're all good. Like previously said, they probably are.

So it's most likely the rings. I'd get new ones and properly gap them.

Just goes to show you that the proper testing can eliminate alot of part swapping.

 

WEll do.. I'm bringing the head in to get checked... If all comes out good, I'm changing the pistons and rings.. Any other advice is greatly apprecaited

 

easiest way to check the head is to put it on its side, pour water in the exhuast ports and see if it leaks out through the valves, then do the same with the intake ports, good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">easiest way to check the head is to put it on its side, pour water in the exhuast ports and see if it leaks out through the valves, then do the same with the intake ports, good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

R you serious or playing man?? Would that rust the head??

 

I added a link to a video of the motor when it was still in the car.. Please watch and give me your input.. thanks again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When the piston comes up, both valves close, and this builds compression. If your valve doesn't seat properly, then all your compression is lost through the valve because it is stuck open a little bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You guys are thinking about 2 different things, but using the same name. The valve area has a valve seal (seals the shaft in the port) and valve seat (seals the cylinder around the valve).


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek_b16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

R you serious or playing man?? Would that rust the head??</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, your head is aluminum, and your valves already have enough oily crap on them to prevent any rust from forming over the course of the 10 seconds you'll have water in them.


If you heard a tick from the head, it could have been something as simple as the valves requiring adjustment. If your valves aren't opening the full amount, or too much, compression valves go out of wack from the norm. You can check the clearances now anyways to be sure, I just hope you didn't pull the cams out yet because of some other little noise

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek_b16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

R you serious or playing man?? Would that rust the head??</TD></TR></TABLE>

R you serious man? the head is aluminum rust=ironoxide

 

The problem you are having could also be the ringlands are shot.Pop the pistons out and check ring gaps and piston ringland condition

 

Alright guys.. Thanks for everyones advice. I really apprecaited it.. Anyways, I took the head to the shop and they did a vaccum test on each runner on both exhaust and intake. Turns out the head is fine.. Its come down to the rings.. I'm gonna go ahead and just build the block.. Thanks again for everyones help

 

So what exactly was the problem with the block?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek_b16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright guys.. Thanks for everyones advice. I really apprecaited it.. Anyways, I took the head to the shop and they did a vaccum test on each runner on both exhaust and intake. Turns out the head is fine.. Its come down to the rings.. I'm gonna go ahead and just build the block.. Thanks again for everyones help </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats great news you must have been holding your breath for awhile.

 

valve seals;

or

Headgasket;


possibly smoking under boost cause the turbo is going..... check for in and out play, and getting over 1mm of up and down the seals can go at any time.

oil buildup in the charge pipes?

Second: The tune looks a little off my friend; Exhaust valves on a good runner normally are white.... This is from my Boosted D15B; running a conservatively rich tune, but normal AFR while cruising in town:

 

another note, a vaccum test will not verify the valve guide seals completely; the vaccum could cause the seal to show fine because it is being drawn towards the valve; and once the head heats up; the seal expands and it leaks.

if u have the head off; get those seals replaced; NO QUESTIONS ASKED; this is 100% golden honest advice.

 

I dont think its the turbo.. I just had it rebuild from blasstperformance about 500 miles ago.. I'm pretty sure its the rings.. I'm debating to go N/a or stay turbo?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek_b16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I'm debating to go N/a or stay turbo? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i think the same thing everyday and then i realize na will cost twice as much be twice as loud and be half as fast

but honestly my car is not my daily, if it was, it probably stay NA, do you have a second car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i think the same thing everyday and then i realize na will cost twice as much be twice as loud and be half as fast

but honestly my car is not my daily, if it was, it probably stay NA, do you have a second car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its my daily driver... I'm on my second motor so dont wanna spend any more money but I guess you gotta pay to play.. I do have a ef that I could drive but it wont pass emissons.. I'm stumped on what to do..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek_b16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its my daily driver... I'm on my second motor so dont wanna spend any more money but I guess you gotta pay to play.. I do have a ef that I could drive but it wont pass emissons.. I'm stumped on what to do.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

why wont it pass emissions? its usually not too complicated on a honda, unless its burning a ton of oil, in my experience a good tune up, check the timing, replace the cat and they pass, if its a honda with a cat built into the manifold i just add a second cat underneath near where the header connects to the exhaust and it always passes