Im trying to figure out which Rods to pick for my build. Car will possibly be in the 750-800 whp range . Setup Is a ls vtec . I have eagle rods but yeah not trusting those at this level. I know the manley turbo tuff is a good choice. What others wouldn't be a bad choice? I was looking at the BMe aluminum rod also.

And 1 more question. Should I use arp main studs (which I have) or just use oem? Does it have to be align bored with arp's? Thanks for the help. Appreciate it.

 

Pauter X beams would also be an option for you.

 

bme rods are a solid choice. given that their rods are produced from forged billets and not a piece of plate aluminum means they are very strong. their basic rod material is rated for 800hp and 10,000rpm but you have to remember they are basing that off of a v8 with huge bores and heavy pistons so in a 4cyl app the basic rod should support a lot more.

you just need to be sure you follow their rules to a t... 10psi of oil pressure for every 1,000rpm of engine operation, specific engine oil viscosity and type requirements (cant go above a certain rpm until the oil reaches temperature), as well as no moly lube when assembling the rods and you have to have very specific clearances that are much different than steel rods.

I'm looking at running bme rods as well and am going to be calling them this week for some advice, I'll post back and tell you what they said.

and also aluminum rods are very streetable, no one really knows where the myth got started but bme has street motors with over 100,000 miles on the original bme rods. you have to remember that most street driving is low load, very much lower than a drag car or circuit car sees during operation and as long as you follow bmes requirements for installing and operating the rods you shouldn't have an issue.

the nice part is they can incorporate forced pin oiling into the rod so the pin will receive constant oiling which helps to reduce friction at the pin and also takes heat out of the pin and piston similar to what an oil squirter does which helps a lot.

 

The ARP mains are up to you. it never hurts to have extra clamping force on the mains but some are making lots of power with stock bolts.

yes with ARP mains you have to line hone the journals. personally if I were going through the extra steps to run ARP mains I would go on ahead and get ERLs billet 5 point crank girdle to tie all of the mains together and eliminate the possibility of any bottom end distortion, especially if you plan on running high rpm

 

Yeah i was checking those out as well.

 

Sounds iinteresting. Get back to me when you find out more info on those rods. Ill probably end up with those or turbo tuff. There right around the same cost as well.every other rod that descent the price is about 100 dollars more.

 

Yeah i hear you. I think I'm just gonna run new oems. And just sell the arps.

 

For 800whp, I'd keep it safe and just use them. a small align hone on a good crank is worth it for such a high investment. but that's just me.

 

Yeah im still looking around in old threads to see what most prefer in there builds.

 

Its not the threads you have to compare, its just a matter of covering all the bases when it comes to making over 800whp. No one making these kinds of builds are going to simply record whether or not they used OEM over ARP and explain why.. If anything, they won't say anything because using the ARP mains is a pretty standard practice... so standard that it may not even be mentioned.

Hell, I use ARP mains on my NA builds that plan to rev high. the block is already at the machine shop with the crank, might as well get it ALL done.

 

I haven'teven priced the align hone yet. I'll call the shop tomorrow. But first i need to get my hands on a ls crank. Just found out my ls has gsr rods and crank.

 

Where are you located? I might have a minty fresh spare ls crank in storage.

 

I live in az. Wanna trade cranks? U can have my gsr if you have a good ls crank.

 

Is anybody using the brian crower pro series rods in high hp applications?