Norlael

basically I'm trying to remember the name of this turbo that I researched about a year ago. It's a gt25/28 frame turbo with journal bearings rated at 350 whp. going on a stock internals gsr. think its was .54 wheel. was a person selling it in the HT sponsor market but cant find it. been searching for about 2 days now any help appreciated. thanks.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Sounds like the standard journal bearing GT28 5 bolt ford-style housing.. that's rated at 350 to the crank. You can find that at several locations.. did you need a cartridge number?

Norlael

yea the cartridge number would help alot, and since the turbo oracle is here, what turbo would you recommend?

stock block/head studs
750 fic injectors
255lph walbro
350 goal whp
pump 93
want high response for street drivability, was looking to spend around 600 most of my research has lead me to precision turbos, but i keep seeing they're bad, that's wy im leaning garret.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Stock block what? B-series? K-series?, D-series? makes a difference.

Bump your $600 limit up to get a real turbo either way. $600 doesn't really cut it even for a T3 super 60.

Purpose of the car?

Your cartridge number is 431876-5126

Does it look like this?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

we need more info on the turbo like pictures of the housings, wheels with the housings removed, and the CHRA. as well as any part numbers on the CHRA tag, if there's one there at all.

without this info we can't tell you what it is

any standard gt28 won't support 350whp. it's rated for crank horsepower and 350hp or roughly 35lb/min won't get you to 350whp. you'll do well to see 280-300whp with the turbo at its absolute operational limit. add in the small turbine wheel and you'll soon find out the turbine wheel is what limits the turbo

Also if it's the turbo me and theshodan think it is then it will have great midrange power but expect to have no top end, as boost will start to fall off in the higher rpm range and thus stopping power production. this is due to the fact you're at the limits of both the turbine and compressor wheels.

it will also require a decent boost level to make 280-300hp. expect 15-18psi at minimum you'll end up at more like 20+psi.

Depending on how good your tuner is, what fuel you use, and the condition of the motor wil all be important factors to consider. you're going to be stressing the stock internals a lot at those pressure ratios on such a small turbo. don't be surprised if you break a ringland, especially if you have low octane shitty gas.

Also we need a complete parts list. what you posted doesn't give us the whole picture and you sure as hell need more parts than that for a turbo setup.

if your budget for a turbo is only 600 then what's the budget for the entire build? you need to factor in the cost of tuning as well. if you aren't planning on spending 3,000-5,000 dollars on the whole setup then you're royally screwed

Norlael

yea my total budget is for 3k, got alot of stuff already on top of me being a welder so fabrication isnt and issue. this is going on a b series, just want a bang for the buck fun street car. all of the engine management and what not should all be in line, i've built turbo cars before, about 10 years ago, just that turbos have changed alot since then.

if a full parts lists helps then:

93 pump octane/e-85 running dual maps.
stock b series b18c1
stock head gasket
type r cam
arp head studs
aftermarket rings and bearings ACL (not race ones)
775 fic injectors
walbro 255
neptune ecu and PWM boost solenoid
precision 20psi wastegate
treadstone DIY topmount mani
3" down and cat back
innovative wideband

and yea shodan, that was the turbo I was looking for orginally, but I guess it doesnt flow well enuff then for about 300-350 whp? oh and I just went back and looked at the pictures, that turbo is for internal wastegate, need external.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No. that's a 5 bolt FORD STYLE, not the standard GT 5 bolt. that fits an external gate as well. the hole is simply covered with the downpipe flange.

I'd also get rid of that topmount if you're trying to get a responsive "fun" setup. Even that exhaust manifold will take away the "fun" of a smaller turbo setup because of its design was made for higher exhaust VOLUME, not energy.

If you have the fabrication abilities, I'd look to a tubular log manifold or equal length shorty manifold type instead of a topmount or Kooks "Ramhorn" instead.

I'd also use a slightly smaller spring for your precision wastegate, as for the power levels and responsiveness that you're looking for, you'd be overboost for what you need. Unlike 4G63s and 3S-GTEs that like a lot of high boost to get to that level, you'll need less than half that pressure to do what you're asking for due to the cylinder head's volumetric efficiency. Or even better yet, get rid of the Precision altogether and get Turbosmart or TiAL, if at all possible.

Staying Garrett is the right choice, at least, but you'll need to increase your budget slightly. I'd also look at water cooling for a street setup, since you're "stop & go"..

Stay small, stay 4 bolt.

Norlael

ok sounds good on the ramhorn, wanted top mount for bling factor, lol.

from what you're telling me and what I'm seeing online is that the garrett disco potato with t3 .48 exhaust and external gate.

here's a link to it with the specs:lhttp://www.full-race.com/store/turbo...0rs-turbo.html

my question is now I suppose, should I stay with the .48 or move up to the .63 exhaust?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Stop this "bling factor" stuff, my friend. no one will understand seeing a small T04B turbocharger on a BIG top mount manifold. It actually looks...well, embarrassing. especially if trying to stay responsive on a 38lbs/min turbocharger.

What you just listed is the Disco Potato in which they switched out the standard internal gate 5 bolt for a T31 4 bolt turbine housing. that turbo is at MAXIMUM about 350whp (so you'd be over 23-26psi of boost pressure to get that level) and that's with the larger .63A/R.

Please remember, you'll be required to get a water line kit (about $125) or so, as well as a .030" restrictor and GT return flanges (which runs about $60) or so.

As wantboost stated:

He wasn't kidding. You'll get about 320whp after over 20psi and that's it. In order to be more efficient in utilizing that powerband on a b18c1, you need at least about 48lbs/min or so and can be done with journal or ball-bearing cartridge.

No one is saying you need anything too big, but at the same time, too small, and yes, you'll get the torqueband you're looking for, but it will not take the top end power you need after about 6000rpms. Even on a "bling factor" topmount manifold. That turbo wasn't constructed that way. If you were a b16 looking to do some road racing on a short course, sure, the Disco would work best, but for what you're trying? with a topmount manifold? Not a good idea at all.

Get your head out of the topmount, (get something more manageable and practical) and you'll need something between 48lbs/min - 50lbs/min for the B18C1 to be effective between 10-15psi of boost pressure.

Norlael

yea im going the ramhorn route for sure, maybe even thinking about cast, from what ive read the cast holds in more heat, and helps the turbo spool faster.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

nope, I know ALMOST as much about turbos as theshodan does lol.

a cast manifold will limit turbo selection due to block clearance and a ramhorn is overkill. stick with a miniram and call it a day. it's the best manifold choice for your power goals and purpose. outflows cast or log manifolds and has shorter runners than a ramhorn

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No.. It has more heat because it contains more Iron, and not an alloy. But not enough to change characteristics. But people have to have their "ramhorn bling" even though it diminishes their purpose so, hey... what can ya do?