help me choose my bearings
01-21-2006, 04:51 PM
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help me choose my bearings
hi i need some help trying to find the correct bearing size for my block
the letters stamped on my block are =CBCCC
the numbers stamped on my crank are ...
this is a jdm itr block and a jdm itr crank .. it seem really confiusing since in some parts of the crank it has a letter mark not a number like for example that X .. mean 5 on numbers I think
THANKS IN ADBANCE
Modified by EGSR at 6:14 PM 1/21/2006
the letters stamped on my block are =CBCCC
the numbers stamped on my crank are ...
this is a jdm itr block and a jdm itr crank .. it seem really confiusing since in some parts of the crank it has a letter mark not a number like for example that X .. mean 5 on numbers I think
THANKS IN ADBANCE
Modified by EGSR at 6:14 PM 1/21/2006
01-21-2006, 06:57 PM
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Re: help me choose my bearings (EGSR)
if i were u i would take the crank in to an engine building shop have them mic' it to see if it needs to be ground down. then go to camp1320.com and buy some. here this link go straight to the bearings http://camp1320.com/products_go2.cfm?id=16
01-22-2006, 11:03 AM
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Will the machine shop tell you what size to get? Then I guess call them and tell them what you need, or are they all the same?
From what I have read and what I have been told, your best bet is to go factory. Honda has spent a lot of time making sure the clearances are perfect.
From what I have read and what I have been told, your best bet is to go factory. Honda has spent a lot of time making sure the clearances are perfect.
01-22-2006, 11:30 AM
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Re: (CBURKE)
so far my colors are (from crank pulley to flywheel )
c3=brown
b4=brown
c3 or 4 = black or brown <---- not sure bc it said 3 and 4 on the crank
c3=brown
c3= brown
c3=brown
b4=brown
c3 or 4 = black or brown <---- not sure bc it said 3 and 4 on the crank
c3=brown
c3= brown
01-22-2006, 11:52 AM
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Re: (EGSR)
yes the shop will tell u what size to get. as far as going OEM ya thats cool if u want to go through the BS of getting the right ones. tons of people use ACL i did on my old motor and on my new motor i am as well never had a prob with them.
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01-22-2006, 05:24 PM
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Re: (EGSR)
why cant anyone answer this simple question?!
the crank numbers are there, the block numbers are there, please help the guy with calculating his bearing colors.
why do you respond with crap like "use ACL bearings..."
if he wanted to know if he should use OEM or acl bearings, he would have asked.
jees- it just pissed me off how nobody cant get a stright answer. then when someone tries to research things, they get bullshit information.
the crank numbers are there, the block numbers are there, please help the guy with calculating his bearing colors.
why do you respond with crap like "use ACL bearings..."
if he wanted to know if he should use OEM or acl bearings, he would have asked.
jees- it just pissed me off how nobody cant get a stright answer. then when someone tries to research things, they get bullshit information.
01-22-2006, 08:01 PM
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Re: (EGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so far my colors are (from crank pulley to flywheel )
c3=brown
b4=brown
c3 or 4 = black or brown <---- not sure bc it said 3 and 4 on the crank
c3=brown
c3= brown </TD></TR></TABLE>
use factory honda bearings... but it's a preference thing. alot of people use acl with success but i personally like oem, in the end its up to you.
you have the colors right and as far as it reading 3/4 for the third journal, use the number that's in the same location as the others. Dont go by the number that's raised but by the one that's etched... hope that's easy to understand.
just adding... the reason it has letters/numbers on the block is for the rod and main bearings. the letters are to determine the correct rod bearings, each rod will have a number on it which you use with its corresponding letter on the crank. the numbers on the crank are for determining main bearings using the letters on the block.
hope this made sense... good luck.
Modified by 93preludes at 11:15 PM 1/22/2006
c3=brown
b4=brown
c3 or 4 = black or brown <---- not sure bc it said 3 and 4 on the crank
c3=brown
c3= brown </TD></TR></TABLE>
use factory honda bearings... but it's a preference thing. alot of people use acl with success but i personally like oem, in the end its up to you.
you have the colors right and as far as it reading 3/4 for the third journal, use the number that's in the same location as the others. Dont go by the number that's raised but by the one that's etched... hope that's easy to understand.
just adding... the reason it has letters/numbers on the block is for the rod and main bearings. the letters are to determine the correct rod bearings, each rod will have a number on it which you use with its corresponding letter on the crank. the numbers on the crank are for determining main bearings using the letters on the block.
hope this made sense... good luck.
Modified by 93preludes at 11:15 PM 1/22/2006
01-24-2006, 06:05 PM
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Re: (93preludes)
yea it does but what about if I'am using eagles ? how can I identify them ... what would u do in my case ? i think I'am gonna use same main bearing coolor but new ones ; .. now what about for the rods ? use acls
01-24-2006, 06:56 PM
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Re: (EGSR)
Here's a worksheet I put together for finding your bearings.
You can't just take the codes off the crank and block, you need to also take proper measurements. If you just use the codes, this means you are assuming there is zero wear on your crank.
The proper way to determine your desired bearing colors is to measure the crank main journals, and main tunnels in the block, I've made the rest easy, you just plug the numbers into my worksheet and look to see which colors match up with your target clearances. Do the same with the rods, you measure the crank rod journals, and the rod big ends and plug those into my rod chart. You can have your machine shop take the measurements and write them down for you.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1494711
You can't just take the codes off the crank and block, you need to also take proper measurements. If you just use the codes, this means you are assuming there is zero wear on your crank.
The proper way to determine your desired bearing colors is to measure the crank main journals, and main tunnels in the block, I've made the rest easy, you just plug the numbers into my worksheet and look to see which colors match up with your target clearances. Do the same with the rods, you measure the crank rod journals, and the rod big ends and plug those into my rod chart. You can have your machine shop take the measurements and write them down for you.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1494711
01-25-2006, 03:21 AM
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Re: (EGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was trying to figure it out how that charts work ........but I'am starting to understand now </TD></TR></TABLE>
you have to download the file, and open it up in Excel, then you can input your measurements in the purple cells, once you do that all the values change accordingly.
you have to download the file, and open it up in Excel, then you can input your measurements in the purple cells, once you do that all the values change accordingly.
01-25-2006, 04:58 AM
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Re: (Mr. Helsinki)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Helsinki »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't just take the codes off the crank and block, you need to also take proper measurements. If you just use the codes, this means you are assuming there is zero wear on your crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I partially agree with this statement but I personally think you can properly select your bearing codes using the codes on the block and crank. I also think this guys experience will be the same... Unless your cranks wear is more than "normal" you should still be within spec using the colors indicated through the crank/block codes.
measuring the journals and main bores is the most precise way to do it but you can properly select bearing colors based on the codes assuming you have a good crank. This of course means you plastiguage and verify that you're clearances are within spec but going by the codes will not put you that far off. It may cost you 10-20$ for another bearing or two but you would not have to buy an entire new set of bearings or anything like that.
if you dont have ID/OD mic's then you can go by the codes and use plastiguage... another way to do it would be to measure clearances using used bearings and the bearing chart.
good luck & good discussion
Modified by 93preludes at 8:58 AM 1/25/2006
I partially agree with this statement but I personally think you can properly select your bearing codes using the codes on the block and crank. I also think this guys experience will be the same... Unless your cranks wear is more than "normal" you should still be within spec using the colors indicated through the crank/block codes.
measuring the journals and main bores is the most precise way to do it but you can properly select bearing colors based on the codes assuming you have a good crank. This of course means you plastiguage and verify that you're clearances are within spec but going by the codes will not put you that far off. It may cost you 10-20$ for another bearing or two but you would not have to buy an entire new set of bearings or anything like that.
if you dont have ID/OD mic's then you can go by the codes and use plastiguage... another way to do it would be to measure clearances using used bearings and the bearing chart.
good luck & good discussionModified by 93preludes at 8:58 AM 1/25/2006
01-25-2006, 04:12 PM
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Re: (Mr. Helsinki)
well well well today i measure #1 crank journal ( the first one from the t belt side)
i use a plastigauge that i bough at napa ... this plasticgauge measure clerance in between 0004 and 0009 .. this was the only one they had ... dont know if that would make a difference since the std clearance written in the manual said between 0009 and 0017 inch ... and 0020 being out of service limits .. I did the usual ... place a strip of plastigauge on the crank journal .. put the cap on and torque to 56 lb .... then unbolt it and my measurements were less thans 0004 more likely 0.0003 . what does this means ? is it too tight or too loose ? I try 2 times and the numbers still the same
i use a plastigauge that i bough at napa ... this plasticgauge measure clerance in between 0004 and 0009 .. this was the only one they had ... dont know if that would make a difference since the std clearance written in the manual said between 0009 and 0017 inch ... and 0020 being out of service limits .. I did the usual ... place a strip of plastigauge on the crank journal .. put the cap on and torque to 56 lb .... then unbolt it and my measurements were less thans 0004 more likely 0.0003 . what does this means ? is it too tight or too loose ? I try 2 times and the numbers still the same
01-25-2006, 04:33 PM
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Re: (mattcivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if u want to go through the BS of getting the right ones. </TD></TR></TABLE>
why is it BS? it takes mmm bout 30 sec. to pic them out of the chart. ACL's are good if your crank required machining. if your crank had excessive wear its usually visible and would need to be cut. go with oem if you can.
why is it BS? it takes mmm bout 30 sec. to pic them out of the chart. ACL's are good if your crank required machining. if your crank had excessive wear its usually visible and would need to be cut. go with oem if you can.
01-25-2006, 04:50 PM
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Re: (Mr. Helsinki)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Helsinki »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can't just take the codes off the crank and block, you need to also take proper measurements. If you just use the codes, this means you are assuming there is zero wear on your crank.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your crank is worn to the point that you could measure it is ruined anyways. Cranks should never hit anything to make them wear. They always ride on a flm of oil, if not then you spun the bearing. Maybe you could polish it, but I'd replace it. I rebuilt a 195,000 mile d15 because the oil control ring was ruined. When I put it back together I just ordered the correct sized bearings via the marks on the rods and crank. When I plasticguaged it came out perfectly in spec.
I did the same with my turbo eclipse. Except that mitsubishi will scrap a crank out of spec instead of mixing and matching bearings to make it work. I simply bought new bearings and put her back together without measuring the crank. Once again it plasticguaged fine. 191,000 miles as of today on that motor.
You can't just take the codes off the crank and block, you need to also take proper measurements. If you just use the codes, this means you are assuming there is zero wear on your crank.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your crank is worn to the point that you could measure it is ruined anyways. Cranks should never hit anything to make them wear. They always ride on a flm of oil, if not then you spun the bearing. Maybe you could polish it, but I'd replace it. I rebuilt a 195,000 mile d15 because the oil control ring was ruined. When I put it back together I just ordered the correct sized bearings via the marks on the rods and crank. When I plasticguaged it came out perfectly in spec.
I did the same with my turbo eclipse. Except that mitsubishi will scrap a crank out of spec instead of mixing and matching bearings to make it work. I simply bought new bearings and put her back together without measuring the crank. Once again it plasticguaged fine. 191,000 miles as of today on that motor.
01-25-2006, 05:22 PM
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Re: (Muckman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What if you swap cranks? Then you cant use the stampings at all. So stop being a lazy engine builder and do it the right way - measure!</TD></TR></TABLE>
wtf? use the codes on the new crank... just to be clear, using the block/crank marking is NOT the "lazy" way to build engines.
wtf? use the codes on the new crank... just to be clear, using the block/crank marking is NOT the "lazy" way to build engines.
01-25-2006, 05:28 PM
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Re: (Muckman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What if you swap cranks? Then you cant use the stampings at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
explain to me why you can't if you swap a crank?
explain to me why you can't if you swap a crank?
01-25-2006, 05:30 PM
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Re: (danl)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If your crank is worn to the point that you could measure it is ruined anyways. Cranks should never hit anything to make them wear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your crank is worn to the point that you could measure it is ruined anyways. Cranks should never hit anything to make them wear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
01-25-2006, 05:51 PM
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Re: (86si)
crank is in perfect conditions it has about 50k miles now my question is why did my clerance measured like 0003 something ? I tight them up to 56 lb of torque what would that means ? bearing too tick or tin ?
ps do u guys lik emy new avatar >
ps do u guys lik emy new avatar >