Help - Fuel System ?'s
Currently installed is the DRAG III Kit with the inline pump and Vortech 12:1 FMU. I want to upgrade from stock injectors to high flow rate ones and a intank pump, I already have the pump (Walbro 255) but I need to know what size injectors and what about a fuel pressure regulator (which one) and what about the 12:1 FMU what needs to be done with that?
I already currently have a AEM Fuel Rail and S-AFC (LS B18b) also I have a MSD-BTM ignition with boost retard. 310cc injectors and 8:1 disk for the FMU huh? anything else needed?
what you could do... is sell the 310s and the fmu... buy dsm 450cc injectors +resistor box, get the injectors cleaned... and have extra money for a few weeks of gas. i think a lot of people prefer the vafc hack over the fmu+inline setup. (i would probably do the vafc but that requires a lot of tuning on your part and i also dont have the money.)
Can you go into detail about the "AFC Hack" and does it have to use a V-AFC or is a S-AFC ok since I am non-VTEC. I have heard of this "HACK" but don't know anything about it. I have thought about DSM injectors but didn't know what it took to use them...I am not worried about price just what is the best!
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well u can get dsm injectors for like $50 and get them cleaned by RC Engineering for $100 or less? i dont know the exact price. and yes, you can use a SAFC or a VAFC. basically all you do is trim the fuel down at certain rpms so your car can idle perfectly with them. your not supposed to use a check valve either. it looks something like this:
1-4k= -40%
4.5k= -38%
5k= -36%
5.5-7k= -35%
thats all i really know... maybe someone who actually uses this method can help you out more.
1-4k= -40%
4.5k= -38%
5k= -36%
5.5-7k= -35%
thats all i really know... maybe someone who actually uses this method can help you out more.
http://www.thedropshop.tv/vafc.htm
I am pretty sure you can use it with the Safc also as long as you can adjust as much as the Vafc does, I think it is like +-50%, so if you could do that with the SAFC it should work. I am gonna try this too, but I need to get $$$ for a SAFC/VAFC.
I am pretty sure you can use it with the Safc also as long as you can adjust as much as the Vafc does, I think it is like +-50%, so if you could do that with the SAFC it should work. I am gonna try this too, but I need to get $$$ for a SAFC/VAFC.
What check valve ar you refering to? The MAP sensor check valve(s)? This has been replace with a "missing link". I need more info on the "hack" thing
Who has done the AFC-Hack and is it worth it...would it be easier and more efficient to purchase a Hondata or Haltech instead of relying on a piggyback?
I hate to do all this work for what could be done very simply...cost isn't an issue at this point, doing it the CORRECT way is the only issue!
I hate to do all this work for what could be done very simply...cost isn't an issue at this point, doing it the CORRECT way is the only issue!
I was usuing the AFC-mod for a while on my D16.
Very simple, 440-450 injectors, AFC and intank pump, that's it. No FMU's, no inlines, no Missing Links.
Just set the fuel trim back to like -40% throughout the rpm range and let the ECU automatically adjust the fuel according to the amount of air it see's via the MAP sensor. Technicaly, the MAP will see the boost obviously, but since you're trimming the signal so much (-40%), by the time it reaches the ECU, it's seeing a much smaller value of air thus thinking all is normal and allowing the ECU to make it's own changes. Of course this is NOT a standalone, and I did alot of "hit-or-miss" style tweaking. I survived only by checking my plugs and compression like a freak, so if you're not that **** about your motor, you might want to consider another more reliable route of fuel managment.
Very simple, 440-450 injectors, AFC and intank pump, that's it. No FMU's, no inlines, no Missing Links.
Just set the fuel trim back to like -40% throughout the rpm range and let the ECU automatically adjust the fuel according to the amount of air it see's via the MAP sensor. Technicaly, the MAP will see the boost obviously, but since you're trimming the signal so much (-40%), by the time it reaches the ECU, it's seeing a much smaller value of air thus thinking all is normal and allowing the ECU to make it's own changes. Of course this is NOT a standalone, and I did alot of "hit-or-miss" style tweaking. I survived only by checking my plugs and compression like a freak, so if you're not that **** about your motor, you might want to consider another more reliable route of fuel managment.
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spoon95eg
Forced Induction
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Dec 19, 2005 06:15 PM





