:( Help with code 13 - Barometric Pressure.
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
:( Help with code 13 - Barometric Pressure.
Hey,
I searched and found people with this code, but not really the cause/resolution....
I have an Emanage and greddy turbo kit (98 ITR). Not sure why this code would start coming up just after getting it installed/tuned.
I cleared the code, ran the car a couple of times, boosted around the block and it didn't come back.
Then, I was in 4th gear, 2500 RPM, WOT, 0.05 bar boost, and it came back on.
Any thoughts? My emanage MAP clamp voltage is 2.9 volts. Is the code related to the MAP voltage or is this more likely a wiring problem? Where do I start?
-Chris
I searched and found people with this code, but not really the cause/resolution....
I have an Emanage and greddy turbo kit (98 ITR). Not sure why this code would start coming up just after getting it installed/tuned.
I cleared the code, ran the car a couple of times, boosted around the block and it didn't come back.
Then, I was in 4th gear, 2500 RPM, WOT, 0.05 bar boost, and it came back on.
Any thoughts? My emanage MAP clamp voltage is 2.9 volts. Is the code related to the MAP voltage or is this more likely a wiring problem? Where do I start?
-Chris
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: :( Help with code 13 - Barometric Pressure. (ccfries)
Hmm. Googled honda tech (can't search for 13 on h-t, only 2 characters).
\From just a few days ago...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=940863
But no real answer, or why it would be related to putting on the turbo.
Found this too, maybe the voltage clamp should be 2.75 volts instead of 2.9 in the E-Manage??
http://www.geocities.com/chipm....html
Code 13 - Atmosphric Pressure Sensor
The PA sensor should read close to the MAP sensor of 2.75v, this may very small amounts due to current weather conditions and elevation. Due to it's location, it is probably easier to check the voltage at the ECU. This sensor vary seldom, or never at all should fail. Flooding may have damaged it, at one time or another.
\From just a few days ago...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=940863
But no real answer, or why it would be related to putting on the turbo.
Found this too, maybe the voltage clamp should be 2.75 volts instead of 2.9 in the E-Manage??
http://www.geocities.com/chipm....html
Code 13 - Atmosphric Pressure Sensor
The PA sensor should read close to the MAP sensor of 2.75v, this may very small amounts due to current weather conditions and elevation. Due to it's location, it is probably easier to check the voltage at the ECU. This sensor vary seldom, or never at all should fail. Flooding may have damaged it, at one time or another.
#4
Re: :( Help with code 13 - Barometric Pressure. (ccfries)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=940863
there's a link to my thread..
I can't seem to get the CEL off. Let me know if you do though.
there's a link to my thread..
I can't seem to get the CEL off. Let me know if you do though.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: :( Help with code 13 - Barometric Pressure. (ccfries)
I found that link (see earlier in the thread)
Actually I'm about 90% sure it's because the MAP voltage doesn't match the barometric pressure sensor as soon as the ignition is turned on.
The computer expects ~1 atmosphere at the MAP if the car isn't running (ignition on, not started). This should be equal to the barometric pressure since there's no flow in the system.
My e-manage is pulling the MAP voltage lower because of the correction for larger injectors. The computer probably doesn't like that. AFC hack is likely doing the exact same thing, so at ignition-on, car-off, the MAP voltage is less than 1 atmosphere (roughly).
Oh well, I've got bigger problems to deal with. There may be some way to make an adjustment at 0 RPM or near that to get the MAP closer to the barometric pressure gauge.
With AFC hack you're likely screwed too. Maybe a resistor across the barometric pressure gauge to drop that voltage to match the MAP would work! Ha.
-Chris
Actually I'm about 90% sure it's because the MAP voltage doesn't match the barometric pressure sensor as soon as the ignition is turned on.
The computer expects ~1 atmosphere at the MAP if the car isn't running (ignition on, not started). This should be equal to the barometric pressure since there's no flow in the system.
My e-manage is pulling the MAP voltage lower because of the correction for larger injectors. The computer probably doesn't like that. AFC hack is likely doing the exact same thing, so at ignition-on, car-off, the MAP voltage is less than 1 atmosphere (roughly).
Oh well, I've got bigger problems to deal with. There may be some way to make an adjustment at 0 RPM or near that to get the MAP closer to the barometric pressure gauge.
With AFC hack you're likely screwed too. Maybe a resistor across the barometric pressure gauge to drop that voltage to match the MAP would work! Ha.
-Chris
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: :( Help with code 13 - Barometric Pressure. (ILLICON3000)
Yeah, I'm pretty sure that's it.
Ha, I fixed it! It's an E-Manage only fix. Sorry I can't help you much.
Here's the equation one would need to duplicate this:
Take your EManage correction factor (Injector Change).
old / new = correction... in my case:
240cc / 355cc = .677
This is roughly how much air the E-Manage is going to pull out with an adjustment of 0. It's going to drop it to 67.7% of it's former air pressure to get the ECU to get back to the right injector duty cucle.
Now, take 1/correction to get how much air you need to add to get back to stock.
1/.677 = 1.48. You need 1.48x as much air pressure at idle to get it back to stock pressure. This is 48% more air.
Therefore the airflow adjustment should be 48% (I rounded to 50%). I made the correction at 0% and 3% throttle, at 0 RPM, and made the next increment of 100 RPM to be 0% (my normal setting).
Check the graphs out below. You can see before I start, the input and output of the Greddy MAP voltage is 2.83 volts. When I start it, and the RPM goes about 100 RPM, the voltages separate to be where they belong for the oversized injectors (.95 input, .75 output voltage).
Ha, I fixed it! It's an E-Manage only fix. Sorry I can't help you much.
Here's the equation one would need to duplicate this:
Take your EManage correction factor (Injector Change).
old / new = correction... in my case:
240cc / 355cc = .677
This is roughly how much air the E-Manage is going to pull out with an adjustment of 0. It's going to drop it to 67.7% of it's former air pressure to get the ECU to get back to the right injector duty cucle.
Now, take 1/correction to get how much air you need to add to get back to stock.
1/.677 = 1.48. You need 1.48x as much air pressure at idle to get it back to stock pressure. This is 48% more air.
Therefore the airflow adjustment should be 48% (I rounded to 50%). I made the correction at 0% and 3% throttle, at 0 RPM, and made the next increment of 100 RPM to be 0% (my normal setting).
Check the graphs out below. You can see before I start, the input and output of the Greddy MAP voltage is 2.83 volts. When I start it, and the RPM goes about 100 RPM, the voltages separate to be where they belong for the oversized injectors (.95 input, .75 output voltage).
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#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: (ILLICON3000)
Yah dude you're screwed This is from the E-Manage programmer software.
Go Hondata or Uberdata. I wouldn't do E-Manage again.
-Chris
Go Hondata or Uberdata. I wouldn't do E-Manage again.
-Chris
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