riceball777

my car is smoking only when boosting
motor is a fully built 2.0 lsvtec brand new only about 400-500 miles on the motor. fully tuned. everything is brand new. the turbo was used so i thought it was causing my smoking so i got it rebuilt and it still smoking and burring oil!!!

compression is perfect 180psi on all 4 cilinders. leakdown is also perfect. only leasks about 3-4% in all 4 cilinders. oil feed for the turbo is -3an line with a .06 restrictor. oil return is a -10an with no kinks what so ever mounted on the very top on the pan. i also run the endyny catch can with valve cover vents

help!!!!!
i dont understand what can causing it to smoke when compression and leakdown is perfect, and i run the correct size restrictor on the oil feed and the oil return is perfect and the car was tuned by church!!

what can be causing the problem plz help!!!!!!



a pic to bring more replys and views


Modified by riceball777 at 5:05 AM 8/19/2006

tegedrex

What color is the smoke?

riceball777

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegedrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What color is the smoke?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its grayish/white. its buring oil not coolent. i can wipe the oil off the muffler tip

i mean it cant be the rings, or the valve seals because the leaking down and comression is perfect. the turbo is not geting over oiled because i have the correct .06 restrictor and the oil return is perfect. and the turbo was rebuilt and has like 5 miles on it

it just doesent make sense to me and i dont understande what else it could be

If You Slip You Die

bump for a homie

riceball777

cananyone else help me

no answers?
any ideas?

riceball777

bunp
anyone else ?

Tactic$

Just because you have a restrictor doesn't mean **** can't go wrong.

I'd start with the charge pipe, and work from there.

Lonnieboosted

I think that is whats called blow by. Only 400-500 miles and already fully tuned? Isnt that a little too soon.

riceball777

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tactic$ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just because you have a restrictor doesn't mean **** can't go wrong.

I'd start with the charge pipe, and work from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what are you talking about
if your asking about oil in the charge pipes the answer is no there is no oil in any of the charge pipes at all.

riceball777

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lonnieboosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that is whats called blow by. Only 400-500 miles and already fully tuned? Isnt that a little too soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no its not too early. the motor was broken in and tuned on the dyno which is the correct way to do it. i have enough vents to vent the crankcase's blow by. i'm running the endyne catch can with the 2 block fittings and a -12an vent on the valve cover to the catch can. open automosphere style with no pvc.

Lonnieboosted

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by riceball777 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no its not too early. the motor was broken in and tuned on the dyno which is the correct way to do it. i have enough vents to vent the crankcase's blow by. i'm running the endyne catch can with the 2 block fittings and a -12an vent on the valve cover to the catch can. open automosphere style with no pvc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So let me get this straight. You should take a motor with 0 miles and boost the **** out of it on the dyno, and thats the correct way to do it? Well I guess I did something wrong on my build then.

riceball777

rings will seat with in the first 20 mins
and yes that is the correct way and optimal way to break in a motor
you need to do your research

and no you dont boost the **** out of it with 0 miles. you run it on the dyno and very the rpm to get the rings to seat and get the air fuel on par then you can start boosting and fully tuning

it is dangerious and wrong to drive around even at low rpms on a base map with out a good tune

Lonnieboosted

Well after having done 4 turbocharged motors withing the past 5-6 years, and breaking them in on stock ecu for 1000 miles I have never had a problem, my last one was done in 2004 and still going very strong to this day with no issues ( no smoking).

NJslvrtypes

Lets not go into details on breaking in engines but I think you need to read this article carefully.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397

Your engine was broken in 100% correct, riceball777. I made the mistake of not tuning a motor on the dyno the first time, as you can see by my sig. Evans Tuning will be doing this one.

Bump this up, compression and leakdown normal, and oil on the muffler tip. I'm curious about this one. What did Church have to say?

Lonnieboosted

Its not a debate about breaking in an engine. So the thread that someone made is the end it all. Anyway for getting your car fixed.

IRONlung201

If your compression is good and theres no oil in your charge pipes or downpipe, Id say continue to drive it for awhile. I know you say its broken in already, and for the most part I agree with you, but my friends car did the ssame thing, and it went away eventually after a little more breakin, around the 800-1000 mile mark.

You could always get your hands on a leak down tester to check things out a little better.

good luck
edit: good luck with that manifold too

0BoostedJeff

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lonnieboosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So let me get this straight. You should take a motor with 0 miles and boost the **** out of it on the dyno, and thats the correct way to do it? Well I guess I did something wrong on my build then.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I broke mine in on the dyno, and had 25pounds of boost through the motor within the first 5 miles

mine is holding up, 6,000 hard miles later

o'malley_808

Are you still consuming oil though? I went through something similar where my turbo was blown/burning oil then i rebuilt it, and there was so much unburnt oil in my exhaust system that it still smoked for at least a week afterwards until all the oil dried up in the exhaust. Other than tht, are your catch cans filling up quickly?

riceball777

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IRONlung201 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your compression is good and theres no oil in your charge pipes or downpipe, Id say continue to drive it for awhile. I know you say its broken in already, and for the most part I agree with you, but my friends car did the ssame thing, and it went away eventually after a little more breakin, around the 800-1000 mile mark.

You could always get your hands on a leak down tester to check things out a little better.

good luck
edit: good luck with that manifold too </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have a leak down tester and the leak down is good. all 4 cilinders only leak 3-4%. thats a sparks racing maniolfd not a ssac one and it is braced to the block.

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If You Slip You Die

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