Hey guys couldn't find much with the search function for my specific question most seem interested in drag/max HP. My build is for being on the cheaper side of things while still maintaining reliability please feel free to leave constructive advice tips tricks etc if you like.

Anything that doesn't have a price will be updated when motor comes home

Car: 1990 civic hatch STD d15b2 dual point 4sp man.

Engine: 94 d16z6 (usdm) $100 (block had spun bearings on crank got a new free crank) head had a lot of metal in screen. It looked good visually.

Shot peen rods
Stock valve train
Hastings rings
King bearings
Honed
Hot tank
Rebuilt from ground with new gaskets
Y8 intake
2g DSM turbo left in stock configuration
450 dsm injectors
Tial blow off
FMIC
Exeedy clutch
Chrome or hondata?
Rywire obd1 harness
AEM wide band
Gauges and misc hoses


Now for those of you who have done this, is it possible to have ac and the ac actually work?

For the injectors I'm getting a lot of mixed input do I need a DSM resistor box modified for Honda -or- a Honda modified to multipoint? Links to other posts appreciated

My goal is 220whp but whatever I can get when tuned will be fine with me the goal of this build is to introduce myself to my first turbo car without blowing it up after 6 months due to **** parts i want this engine to last years with proper maintenance it will NOT be taken to the track and will never see redline (not the way I drive).

Anyone on here have a set up like mine? With somewhat the same goals?? Anything I'm missing?? Oh will be tuned by VIP in portland unless I can find someone else

 

It's possible to have A/C, but the heat off the turbo will usually kill your compressor in short order. For the fuel system, you need both. You need MPFI, and you need larger injectors.

There's no such thing as cheap and reliable. If you want to boost it, be ready to put in some money for it to last.

 

Cheap, fast, reliable - you can only pick 2 of the 3.

 

And when you're boosting, you're already picking fast, so it's either cheap, or it's reliable. There's no having both.

 

I stayed away from eBay if that's what your implying

 

Yes. That is the implication, but staying away from "eBay-branded" nonsense is just the beginning. you need to make sure that all of your items fit together as needed. So, don't skip steps and parts to stay "budget", or you'll blow that budget right out of the water at first start up.

 

I certainly didn't build it for 500hp but if I even get 220 out of it I'll be happy that and I'm going for a very conservative tune with reliability being the main concern over high HP numbers. Speaking of do you guys re-tune depending on season or just keep a spare ecu with another tune on it?

 

your tuner should be capable of setting up the car so that no real adjustment is needed seasonally. That's what a boost controller is for.

No one using equipment of reputable quality physically "switches out" anything for differing seasons.