So long story short I loaned my car to someone to drive to work and they blew the headgasket, overheated my block and made the threads break from the block. So we retapped the block with the new size for the helicoils. We installed the helicoils and when we screwed the ARP studs into them, the coils didnt hold the studs at all. As soon as we started tqing down on the nuts, the studs just came right up out of the block. Finally getting frusterated with it we installed bolts, which seemed to hold. That lasted about a day, before the headgasket is either damaged again, or the head is loose, because the motor is back to boiling the coolant if you give it any gas at all.

 

Helicoils work great on smaller stuff, but for head bolts forget it a new block is a must. For example I had to helicoil one of my cam cap threads, worked great no issues.

 

TIME CERT

/thread

 

yea except the local machine shop owner has a car with oversized headstuds that runs helicoils on 600WHP on his SR20

 

Probably has to do with the oversized studs. Ask him to do the same to your block

 

nah that would cost a fkload. Also I cannot take the motor out of the car. And I just looked up the time cert thing, and its the same exact **** as helicoils... Drill, tap, insert..

 

Not really, here(from time-serts site):

What are the specific advantages of TIME-SERT over Helicoil or coil style inserts?


TIME-SERT® is a thin wall, solid bushing, self locking insert with positive placement.

TIME-SERT® inserts are a thin wall solid bushing insert. This guarantees easy installation and allows for full load use of tapped hole, ensuring protection against stress and vibration.
TIME-SERT® inserts are "timed" internal to external which gives a very thin wall thickness which means TIME-SERTs can be installed in areas of limited space and clearance.
TIME-SERT® being a solid bushing insert gives it added strength, easily withstands high temperatures without damage or deforming. TIME-SERT® inserts have no prongs or tangs to break off or deal with down in the hole, which can be a problem in deep holes.

TIME-SERT® inserts are self-locking having an actual locking feature which will prevent them from coming out when a bolt is removed. On installation the bottom few internal threads of the insert are cold rolled to expand into the mating external threads of the base material locking the insert in place.

TIME-SERT® inserts have a flange, which will give them a positive placement on installation for “accurate specific depths”. This ensures that the insert does not wind down into the threaded hole.
Thin wall, self locking , solid bushing insert with positive placement .

Customers have asked if they may also use Loctite® adhesives for additional strength. Yes you may due to the solid wall design. There is no danger of loctite passing thru the threads of the insert and locking up the bolt as in coil types. Time-Sert inserts are used in Aluminum, cast iron, steels and even some hard plastics. MADE IN THE USA

 

Time-setts are best but helicoils will work. I have two in my current gsr block and hold great. Have to do a really good job with the jbstallation

 

In a last resort, you can fill the hole with aluminium and make the thread again.

 

How do you plan on getting the electrode 3.5" or more down in a .500 hole?

Or are you speaking of the ghetto way and just welding the top of the hole, tapping that and running a "custom" shortened stud/bolt???

 

IDK, cant u melt aluminium to get it liquid? Nevermind I think my idea sucked anyways.... LOL

 

lol well idk because all the holes are tapped an there are helicoils in there. And I had a helicoil in my previous block and it never had an issue.

 

I know Northstar engines had issues with their heads stripping if any type of service needed to be done. GM says to use heli-coils to fix the issue..

maybe whoever did it fuct the whole thing up?

 

Me and my father did it lol

 

Helicoils require precise drilling especially for such a deep thread on the block.

Many guys just use a hand drill, but afterwards, the new tapped thread is probably too loose to accept the new helicoil properly, and then pull out afterwards.

Many cases too, is that when the old threads are stripped, the surrounding aluminum is also severely fatigued/stressed. The next size up on the Helicoil drill size may not be enough to remove all the stressed material. So by cutting a new thread and inserting a Helicoil into fatigued/stressed aluminum, it will easily pull out the threads again.

So for stripped headbolts, transmission bell housing to block threads, engine mount threads, etc.. It's better to use a Timesert or similar thread insert.

 

What Tony the tiger said. Also, Timesert sells a kit for stripped helicoils. This is the kit you buy when you've tried to repair your block with helicoils and failed.

 

Timesert, jimster. I would assume with all the money you're making from selling CS hacks / cheats you would be able to fix this with ease..

Snap-on and matco both sell timecert kits too... I suggest since you've already damanged , go a bit bigger, i believe ARP makes a bigger bolt, you'd need to check.

 

yea but business isnt so great these days, and ive got a fkload of bills. so i havent had much, if any disposable income.

Also we didnt drill the hole. we just directly tapped it up 1 size.
And the old threads didnt strip. They just straight up separated from the block.