GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

Does ARP make them for hondas? Between my precision turbo and clunky heavy *** ramhorn manifold, the studs break within 2 or 3 hard pulls on the street one by one. Getting sick of the exhaust manifold leaks, any suggestions? This is for a b16 btw.

Redline130

ARP does make a stronger, longer stainless steel stud that will fit Honda threads. Summit and Titan Motorsports sells them.

01DC4

iTrader: (3)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-400-8012/

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

thanx, so that's the correct thread pitch and all? any idea how strong they are? my manifold weighs a good 30lbs and the turbo is about 16lbs plus my wastegate and dumptube.

effin

iTrader: (1)

they make weewee

Redline130

That's the one. It will hold the weight.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

hum... interesting.

I've never heard of people having to upgrade exhaust manifold head studs due to weight or flex of motor...

added to my 500whp WTB build list

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

i dunno i am running the innovative race solid mounts, traction bar etc. my motor doesn't shift a bit, but between all the vibrations and tire spinning i'm sure something takes a beating somewhere and it seems to be the only thing that's giving me problems right now.

the setup...

K7-1Ktrevor

sometimes you have to upgrade the studs due to a really thick manifold flange. its def not a bad idea and the arp hardware is really nice but def not cheap.

Redline130

Would you rather pay $100 for a set of ARP studs, or $2500 or more for a new manifold and/or turbocharger?

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

good point:D it's sum custom made ramhorn I got from a friend, it's made out of schedule 40 though so it pretty damn thick and heavy. I was looking at the ARP stud kit and I dunno how I am gonna tighten down those 12 point nuts. I can only fit a open ended wrench around the manifold as we speak and even that's a PITA.

Redline130

It can be a little tough, but if you have a 10mm Gear-Wrench, that will help alot.

K7-1Ktrevor

its more like would you rather pay $100 on upgraded arp studs or $35 a hole to the machine shop to fix each broken stud in your head. if you keep an eye on your motor at all its not like the turbo manifold and turbo are going to disappear...

Redline130

Like you mentioned above, sometimes there are manifolds that have thick flanges which reduce the amount of threads available to secure the manifold.

If you want to cheap out on something that I would consider insurance, that's totally up to you. I would rather have the peace of mind knowing that my turbo and manifold are nice and secure, especially going down the track at 100+mph. To each their own.

K7-1Ktrevor

sounds like you like to spend alot on your cars. never once did I say it was a bad idea or dumb to do, its just pricey. my stock exhaust manifold studs work just fine for what I have but I had a buddy who had to go with longer studs and we just went down to the cascade nut and bolt store and paid $12 for what we needed, holds up his top mount and 62/62 just fine

Tony the Tiger

Do you hit the 2-step a lot? I know I used to shear a lot of studs when I went nuts on the 2-step on a few occasions.

Those ARP manifold studs are friggin expensive...

I solved the problem by going with bigger 10mm studs. The few times the stud broke, the four outer studs were seized inside the cyl head, so I had to drill them out. At the same time, I drilled it out to a 10mm stud size and tapped it for a 10mm x 1.25 thread. I had to enlarge the holes for the manifold, and that was it. 4x 10mm studs prevented all studs from ever breaking again.

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

no, don't use the 2-step much at all. i may try going to a local hardware store and see if they sell the same type of studs except Grade 8. cause the ARP kit only comes with 8 studs and I need 9 studs. I doubt they would just throw in a extra stud.

Redline130

They do sell them in packs of 10. But bottomline, do whatever fits your budget.

a1320addict

iTrader: (1)

You're going to be hard-pressed to fit the studs with a ramhorn, the ARP kit is great, we use them all the time, but without seeing the clearance you have from runner to flange, I'd say you're best off bracing the turbo and manifold by the flange at the collector.

Lewy. Dee Ayy

iTrader: (1)

Why not just use bolts?

rat city rex

12mm not 10...lol

Op, do you have a flex section inline or is it solid pipe?

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

I will get some pics up Monday of the clearance from the runner to flange, i'm very hard pressed for room now.

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

i guess your asking about the downpipe? no flex section at all.

K7-1Ktrevor

how do you like those neo gens? thinking about ordering a set.

Redline130

The ARP's use a 10mm 12 point nut.