Wanting to go ahead and upgrade to ARP head studs before boosting the stock motor, what all is involved with this? I searched and saw Schister66 say this...

Is this an alright way of doing it? I know this guy knows his stuff.

 

I wouldn't say its wrong. I would just remove the cams all together to not have them in my way. Also would pull 1 bolt at a time and install 1 ARP stud at a time. The only thing that gets me just a little would be doing the step sequence. It would be weird to me to remove 1 bolt and then replace/tighten it down to a higher torque value assuming you're torquing the ARP's to 75/80ft lbs vs the stock bolt 60. Overall im sure it would not cause an issue.

 

Why wouldn't you replace them all and torque them to head bolt specs, and then once they are all in go back over the correct sequence and do it to the proper head stud specs?

 

If you remove all the bolts you are uncompressing the headgasket / killing the seal thus having a high risk of it not sealing well again if at all. Torque for the ARP's is higher than oem bolts.

 

No, I was saying replace 1 at a time @ head stud torque (same as OE bolts)...Then once they were all installed, go back over them and then torque them to the proper head stud torque.

 

Because ARPs are not meant to be torqued like that.This way is a recipe for disaster to your HG.

Follow Schister's method, or do a full-on HG replacement.

 

I agree with dragon honestly. Pull the head, install new a headgasket and do ARP’s during this time.

 

Idk about three hrs but it is not that hard to do and doesnt require many tools. If your head has been milled the hardest part would be getting it to line up at tdc again after tensioning the belt.

Set the motor to tdc
Take a white marker and mark a dot on the belt and cams. Itll be easier for you to make sure its all back in its place.

when you take the original head bolts off loosen them in steps. 1/4 turn on each stud 2 times 90 degrees total then go ahead and loosen them all the way.

If you are replacing the head gasket remember to drain the block so you dont get coolant in your cylinders. Theres a fitting behind the exhaust header.

I use a fepro head gasket and havent had issues at 300whp about 4 track days 15 min sessions on track, not drag racing.

 

I don't want to take the head off to install the studs though. I just want the studs for that little extra insurance on the stock motor. If I was going to pull the head off I would go ahead and go LSV but I don't want that yet.

 

Then the best course of action to take, without risking a blown headgasket and/or further engine damage, os to wait until you're ready to swap the gasket and/or head to install the ARPs...

 

Then go for it. Worst case you start leaking coolant into a cylinder. Then youll get double the experience changing out a head gasket

 

Yea, after further researching it I won't be going this route. Car never overheated or even got hot so I think I'll pop the head off, clean the surfaces, put in the studs with a new gasket and put it back on.