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problem w/ arp head studs

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Old Sep 21, 2004 | 08:19 PM
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tuan...'s Avatar
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Default problem w/ arp head studs

okay, im having a few problems with my arp head bolt install.. first off i hand tightened down teh headbolts like the instructions tell me, but not all of them are even so i used an allen wrench to even them out.

PROBLEM #1: my head will not go over the studs because my intake manifold hits my firewall since it is such a tight fit, bascially due to the fact that i had to slide the head over the studs and the studs are a bit high. (how come there is an allen key on top of the stud, if im suppose to only hand tighten it????)

ok anyways, so i decide to take the studs out and line up the dowel pins with my head. so after its aligned, i put the studs threw the head like i would with regular oem head bolts (is this ok?) now i cant really hand tighten them that well because it goes out of my finger reach before it gets tight. tell me what u guys think i should do. im sure i could use the allen key to tighten them all evenly, but im not sure how far i should go down. btw, does it even matter how far the stud is in the block?

PS: UMM for the moly lube.. do i put that on the bottom threads or on the threads where the nut goes??
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Old Sep 21, 2004 | 08:40 PM
  #2  
PrecisionH23a's Avatar
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Default Re: problem w/ arp head studs (v0gueSilver_Dc2)

1) Moly lube both the bottom and top threads.
2) Install all head stud bolts with the head off except the back middle (intake side) and outside 2 of the intake side. I believe I am correct, it may be a different one you need to remove, but you got the idea. I torque all of my headstuds to 12ft-lbs by the way by double nutting them then torquing. That means put a 12mm wrench on your stud, install an upside down nut then a topside up nut, tighten till they dont turn, and torque to 12ftlbs. Remove the nuts, and do it for the rest.

12) Install the head WITH the dowel pins in it. Make sure you already lubed the top threads by the way before the head goes on. Install the washers, finger tight a few bolts on the head. Then with your allen head key install the remaining studs good and tight. If you have an adapter to use an allen key for your torque rench, go for it... but if not just make sure its really snug.

36) Install all the bolts and in a criss cross pattern working the middle out, 3 step torque them to 30,58, and 79ftlbs.

420) sm0te w33d 3v3ryd@y
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Old Sep 21, 2004 | 08:56 PM
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i had already installed the head w/o any studs in it, and jus the dowel pins lining it up, is this ok?? then i put the all the studs in afterwards. if i had thought about taking a few out then that woulda helped..

damn i didnt think to moly lube the top of them, and now i barely have any moly lube left dammit. when i torque those studs down (before the actualy torqueing sequence) do i bottom them out in the block?
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 04:32 AM
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Default


,
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 07:30 AM
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Default Re: (v0gueSilver_Dc2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v0gueSilver_Dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(before the actualy torqueing sequence) do i bottom them out in the block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

tighten til its snug then start torque sequence
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 09:33 AM
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yeah taht waht i usually do, just snug them down with the allen wernch first.

oh and the moly on the threads is very important, if you ran out, you better go grab urself another tube and lube upt he threads, washers and nuts,
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