I'm taking my head off to inspect my valves, I figure if I have the head off it would be pretty stupid to not replace the head gasket. I'm going to be running around 9 PSI when I get the car back up. Here's my questions and concerns:

1. Aftermarket Head Gasket necessary or Stock Replacement (Part #?)

2. Does it matter if when you're scraping the old gasket off that it falls down in the water jacket of the block? How do you prevent this from happening, when you're using gasket remover does it matter if that gets in the water jacket or oil holes?

 

use oem headgasket and put masking tape over the holes

 

Genius

3. Replace head studs with ARPs? How much do ARPs run?

 

yes, replace with ARP's they run ~$120

Definitely stock replacement, add some copper spray to it as well.

 

Could anyone give me some more info on this copper spray, do you spray it on the gasket, any certain brand to buy?

 

A Bseries head gasket is a MLS gasket, if put on dry there will be no gasket material to scrape fo rthe most part. If copper spray was used, then some laquer thinner or similar solvent will help loosen up the copper spray and it can be wiped clean.
Use an OEM headgasket for best results and 3-4 thin even coats of copper spray on each side of the gasket. The copper spray I use is made by Permatex and can be bought at AutoZone, NAPA, etc.
The torque to yeild head bolts will need replacement anyways for best results. Might as well go for ARP headstuds. New oem head bolts are around $70 but the ARP's are only alittle more at $120. A good investment.

 

Two questions:

What is the benefit of using ARP head studs? Are they reusable?

I just took off my valve cover, do you have to take the cams out on a B series head gasket change? I've been a D guy up until early this year.

 

Yes ARP studs are reuseable, plus they distribute fastener tension more evenly across the cylinder head to cylinder block interface. This means better gasket sealing.

Yes the camshafts have to be reomved to get to the head bolts on a Bseries head. You do not have to remove the rocker shafts and arms however. When putting in the ARP studs just be careful not to drop a APR nut down one of the oil drain back galleries in the head (it goes strait to the oil pan)