hard break in method.
ok maybe this should be in the Tech section but i wanted to know how many people in the F1 section has done the Hard Break in Method?
the only one i know is BodykitsNW that has done it.
he drove it in the parking lot and then str8 to the dyno with 20miles on his fresh built motor and laid down high 300hp close to 400hp.
the only one i know is BodykitsNW that has done it.
he drove it in the parking lot and then str8 to the dyno with 20miles on his fresh built motor and laid down high 300hp close to 400hp.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
first, let the motor heat cycle 8 times, retorque the head, then go to dyno..2 dyno passes 1/3rd throttle, 2 passes 1/2 throttle, 2 passes 3/4 throttle, then go to town
first, let the motor heat cycle 8 times, retorque the head, then go to dyno..2 dyno passes 1/3rd throttle, 2 passes 1/2 throttle, 2 passes 3/4 throttle, then go to town
The key to break in I believe adding load, wether you do easy or hard break in, you 'll want to add load as it goes up the RPM and let off the throttle and let the engine speed slow down on its own instead of downshifting or hitting the brakes.
For example,
Start at 2nd gear, drive it until 6000-7000 rpm ish, then let off the throttle, let the engine speed slow down naturally.., and do it again, this way, you're adding laod to the car and let the rings settles faster.
stan
For example,
Start at 2nd gear, drive it until 6000-7000 rpm ish, then let off the throttle, let the engine speed slow down naturally.., and do it again, this way, you're adding laod to the car and let the rings settles faster.
stan
I know everyone lies about their break in.
"yeah I did 750 miles of constant variation" blah blah...
I did a nice RPM fluctuation for about 100 miles, changed the oil, and went to the track. Three years later and about 40k miles, the car still runs 12's N/A, using all Honda parts.
"yeah I did 750 miles of constant variation" blah blah...
I did a nice RPM fluctuation for about 100 miles, changed the oil, and went to the track. Three years later and about 40k miles, the car still runs 12's N/A, using all Honda parts.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIXTYdashONE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
first, let the motor heat cycle 8 times, retorque the head, then go to dyno..2 dyno passes 1/3rd throttle, 2 passes 1/2 throttle, 2 passes 3/4 throttle, then go to town</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great site!
first, let the motor heat cycle 8 times, retorque the head, then go to dyno..2 dyno passes 1/3rd throttle, 2 passes 1/2 throttle, 2 passes 3/4 throttle, then go to town</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great site!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nd_styles »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Great site!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great site!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegracinGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How high in the RPM's are you guys going when you do these second gear pulls?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read the link posted above. "MotoMan" details the breakin method step by step. It's really easy and it really works.
Good luck.
Read the link posted above. "MotoMan" details the breakin method step by step. It's really easy and it really works.
Good luck.
ive never tried the hardbreakin process. but the soft one seems to work as well, its what i did. i just drove my car to 3-3.5k for 1000 miles. as for oil, i changed it after the initial start up, and after 250 miles, then again at 500, then again at 1000, usuing the cheaper oil. then put synthetic in at 1000.
im getting 180 across the board on a 9.1 CR motor.
im getting 180 across the board on a 9.1 CR motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The key to break in I believe adding load, wether you do easy or hard break in, you 'll want to add load as it goes up the RPM and let off the throttle and let the engine speed slow down on its own instead of downshifting or hitting the brakes.
For example,
Start at 2nd gear, drive it until 6000-7000 rpm ish, then let off the throttle, let the engine speed slow down naturally.., and do it again, this way, you're adding laod to the car and let the rings settles faster.
stan</TD></TR></TABLE>
but what happens if your car hasnt tuned yet ?? wouldnt the engine blow up right away , specially revving it to 6-7k ?
thanks
For example,
Start at 2nd gear, drive it until 6000-7000 rpm ish, then let off the throttle, let the engine speed slow down naturally.., and do it again, this way, you're adding laod to the car and let the rings settles faster.
stan</TD></TR></TABLE>
but what happens if your car hasnt tuned yet ?? wouldnt the engine blow up right away , specially revving it to 6-7k ?
thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is how i did it. i used non detergent 30w iol for break in (got the oil at napa).
after less then 25 miles on it, i had 152 psi +/- 2 across all 4 cylinders. (9.0-1 c/r on a sohc @ 6500 ft up) now when i drive it around town i vary the throttle and will continue to do so for another 200 miles.
its all about putting a load on the rings so they seal right.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is how i did it. i used non detergent 30w iol for break in (got the oil at napa).
after less then 25 miles on it, i had 152 psi +/- 2 across all 4 cylinders. (9.0-1 c/r on a sohc @ 6500 ft up) now when i drive it around town i vary the throttle and will continue to do so for another 200 miles.
its all about putting a load on the rings so they seal right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FredoSP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no cause if there is no load on the engine I can be in 2nd gear @ 8000 rpm and still be in VAC, not boost. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats interesting
thats interesting
its funny, im a firm believer in the theory of this break in method....
but i just got done putting my motor back together and it sure is hard to commit myself to go out and jump on it with 25 miles on it..
Imma give it a couple hundred miles to make sure everything is cool and then go to town.
I just wanna give the motor some time to get used to itself
but i just got done putting my motor back together and it sure is hard to commit myself to go out and jump on it with 25 miles on it..
Imma give it a couple hundred miles to make sure everything is cool and then go to town.
I just wanna give the motor some time to get used to itself
hey guys, maybe my comments were ambiguous, I wanted to state the point that even if you rev high you still need load, b.c like i said I can be in 2nd gear @ 8k and still be in VAC.
Maybe Ben can add some good points. I remember him saying this at the EFI101 class.
Maybe Ben can add some good points. I remember him saying this at the EFI101 class.
To follow up to what Fred is sayin, just look at it like this..
Revving to 8k in 2nd gear going UPHILL will put alot more load on a car rather then going downhill at 8k in 2nd gear. On a dynojet, there is no load...on a dynopack, there is load capabilities.
Revving to 8k in 2nd gear going UPHILL will put alot more load on a car rather then going downhill at 8k in 2nd gear. On a dynojet, there is no load...on a dynopack, there is load capabilities.
or you can date a heffer like sixtydashone did, take her out on your car and that adds up more load and your rings will seated twice as fast..
lol
stan
lolstan







