<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Several people have run the 1/2 size radiator w/o any trouble. Yours is the first complaint I have heard...</TD></TR></TABLE>

There are probably other things that can help cool it down like a vented hood and maybe a body kit. I just have a stock bumper and a cf hood but only an intercooler in the air path and it wasn't enough. Why do you think they'er full-sized from the factory? Being thicker doesn't help, there is just not enough coolant in it, and not enough air hitting it.

Try a stress and endurance test between the two and you'll see that I'm right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tuned_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will run too hot, trust me, I've tried it. Using a $350 Fluidyne radiator and a 14" Spal fan, Spoon thermostat, and water wetter It would consistently run over 230F after full boost and wouldn't cool down. I went back to stock with 2 fans and saw 200F at the most. 230F is close to dangerous.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pusher or puller fan?

 

puller

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tuned_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It will run too hot, trust me, I've tried it. Using a $350 Fluidyne radiator and a 14" Spal fan, Spoon thermostat, and water wetter It would consistently run over 230F after full boost and wouldn't cool down. I went back to stock with 2 fans and saw 200F at the most. 230F is close to dangerous.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is the first issue I have seen as well. I have done probably 3 set-ups with 1/2 sized in the prelude chassis with no problem. That last one I did was making 484whp and we dogged the **** out of that car with zero coolant problems.

 

a puller fan has been known to be more effective than a pusher fan


is jay (sillysohc) the only person with a turbo manifold for h2b setups?

 

What extra cooling did they have to compensate? My car was running perfectly normal with the stock radiator, and just switching it out caused it to run 20-30F hotter. I wouldn't way it was ok based on the gauge in the dash, there is about a 40F range where it stays in the middle.

 

you sure the system was 100% free of air bubbles?

 

Opened the bleeder valve when hot, it should have had no air bubbles.

Are you using the civic radiator? If so what were your coolant temps after driving about an hour hitting full boost a few times?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tuned_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If your planning on making that a street car you can't run a civic radiator. An h22 needs a full size radiator to stay cool enough.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i have had my turbo h22 in a civic for three years now and i have a c&R half sived radiator and i have never had an overheating issue??? i think that you might have a airbubble somewhere. just my 2 cents

 

Mine didn't overheat either it just ran really hot. It stabilized at about 230F. Maybe there was a stubborn air bubble stuck in there, I'll have to try it again. Maybe a civic has less air blockage than a prelude since it's designed for that radiator.

 

Even one little bubble can make the car run hot, you honestly have to sit there for like an hour before the air is all out.

 

ttt