Got the S2000 back from the shop...
I am posting this for a friend. It was boosted last summer but we just got it back from the shop after adding a inline pro rear diff kit, inline pro headgasket, headstuds, and some additional touch ups. The car made 370rwhp on 12psi last summer on a bad tune. It will be going to the tuner by the end of march. hoping to get 500-550 on a street tune. I think Joe Demaree will be doing the tuning. Anyways here is the specs and a few pics. Will post video's after tuning.
Stock bottom end
inline pro headgasket
headstuds
Full race manifold/ DP
Gt35r
Aem EMS
1000cc injectors
255lhp
Inline pro rear diff kit
Random Catch Can
Upgraded clutch(dont remember brand)





The owner is planing on running a few local events and race wars series at GLD in wisc.
Stock bottom end
inline pro headgasket
headstuds
Full race manifold/ DP
Gt35r
Aem EMS
1000cc injectors
255lhp
Inline pro rear diff kit
Random Catch Can
Upgraded clutch(dont remember brand)





The owner is planing on running a few local events and race wars series at GLD in wisc.
Be careful with the IP headgasket and whatever headstuds you used.
Lots of s2ki.com guys are having blown headgasket issues because they are retorquing them after heat cycles.
Lots of s2ki.com guys are having blown headgasket issues because they are retorquing them after heat cycles.
should be fun
I wish people would do like i did and source a souple spare lines and make the AC lines go around the turbo set up insted of just tuggin on em and pulling them out the way
also be very careful with that rearend, we got one fo the first ones out and it was shipped with the wrong bolts and after about 200 miles it only had 2 left in it, the rearend almost fell out, literally.
it has since been fixed, but its a precaution to all who use them
I wish people would do like i did and source a souple spare lines and make the AC lines go around the turbo set up insted of just tuggin on em and pulling them out the way
also be very careful with that rearend, we got one fo the first ones out and it was shipped with the wrong bolts and after about 200 miles it only had 2 left in it, the rearend almost fell out, literally.
it has since been fixed, but its a precaution to all who use them
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Also if that is a B&M fuel pressure gauge, get rid of it! I went through 3 of them in my boosted set up, until I was educated that they are not shock resistant and break very easily.
Look into a Marshall Liquid Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge, I swapped out to this gauge, and has worked Perfect Ever Since!
Look into a Marshall Liquid Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge, I swapped out to this gauge, and has worked Perfect Ever Since!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look into a new bov. that ones eventually gonna start leaking on u</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2....
I had one on my first setup. Not only was it a little annoying, but at times it surged a little....something to look out for
x2....
I had one on my first setup. Not only was it a little annoying, but at times it surged a little....something to look out for
ya i know the bov sucks and is really annoying. We were having problems with leaks last year, so i sure it wil be swapped out. last year the car went 12.5 on bald *** street tires and a slipping clutch 12psi. It also was cutting out above 7500rpm. Should be fun being able to launch it with slicks on
. How much boost were you able to get on stock internals with the headgasket? We were hoping to get mid 20's for boost. It will be geting a roll bar in the next couple weeks. Anyone have pics of their roll bars in s2k's? if not i can post on it elsewhere...
I think that shiny box you speak of is the resistor box located by the left strut tower.
. How much boost were you able to get on stock internals with the headgasket? We were hoping to get mid 20's for boost. It will be geting a roll bar in the next couple weeks. Anyone have pics of their roll bars in s2k's? if not i can post on it elsewhere...I think that shiny box you speak of is the resistor box located by the left strut tower.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidwestAutoWorks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Be careful with the IP headgasket and whatever headstuds you used.
Lots of s2ki.com guys are having blown headgasket issues because they are retorquing them after heat cycles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are saying re-torquing the headstuds to spec causes a blown headgasket? Why?
Lots of s2ki.com guys are having blown headgasket issues because they are retorquing them after heat cycles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are saying re-torquing the headstuds to spec causes a blown headgasket? Why?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidwestAutoWorks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im sorry, that should have said "arent" retorquing them</TD></TR></TABLE>
i will post a video later today of it running 12.5's...nothing special....capable of alot faster. Ya i remember you guys coming up to earlville. Good times.
the full race manifold is sick but it would be a better fit with a smaller turbo. its really tight. I would have opted for a top mount.
Ill have my friend look around for the dyno graph. It was originally tuned at sound performance in chicago. We were not happy with their tuning abilities even though they claim he is the best aem tuner in the country.
the full race manifold is sick but it would be a better fit with a smaller turbo. its really tight. I would have opted for a top mount.
Ill have my friend look around for the dyno graph. It was originally tuned at sound performance in chicago. We were not happy with their tuning abilities even though they claim he is the best aem tuner in the country.
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