<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Too_Smooth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might want to look at the exhaust wheel in your turbo just to make sure none of the blades got chipped.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just curious becuase i have heard that before. How would the blades get chipped? Like if the pieces of piston came out of the valve chambers into the manifold and into the turbo?
Honestly IMHO those pieces decinigrate. I dont think they chipped off as much as melted.
I know when mine did that they looked chipped, then i looked alot closer and they melted away. I was looking for the chunks too. lol

 

Yeah you're totally correct. I suggested he check it since it's out of the car already.

 

Well its not Wiesco pistons that failed it's just **** happens.

I have being running the Vafc Hack since last July, being driving that **** like a $2 ***** and having fun and keeping it safe(Most important). I check the compression of my motor like every other month and it has always givin me between 190-195psi.

The last compression test I did still gave me the same #'s that was like a little over a month ago. And the car acted funny for like 3 weeks before the dyno. I would still rock the Wiesco pistons but gonna do the Mahle this time due to the killer deal I got.

Even with the broken pistons I still got 275whp at 13psi. Maybe thats why the numbers were kind of low.

You know something, I swapped out a different set of spark plugs a month ago and the car did not like them. Some Iridium Uberpower ones. I always used the NGK BCPR7ES-11, gapped to 0.032". That could be the cause, it ain't the Vafc-HACK so please........cause it's being almost a year already with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That could be the cause, it ain't the Vafc-HACK so please........cause it's being almost a year already with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

13psi + AFC hack = Ridiculous timing under full boost/WOT.

You don't think that did it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTC_CiViC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

13psi + AFC hack = Ridiculous timing under full boost/WOT.

You don't think that did it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

uh no sir....the car has always being boosting 9psi with the hack. Did you not forget that the Hack cannot read that much boost.

13psi with the OBD1 conversion and no Vafc Hack anymore. Now I am running Crome.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

uh no sir....the car has always being boosting 9psi with the hack. Did you not forget that the Hack cannot read that much boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The hack can't read any boost, you're just turning down the signal from the MAP to the ECU telling it you're still within OEM limits, which is some 25 or 26* up top on on a B16 map IIRC.

Again, you don't think 25-26* @ 13psi could possibly have caused at least occasional detonation?

 

Any piston will look like that when you detonate it or run it too lean. On the other hand, the piston can have spikes on the top of it and it wont melt if your tune up is correct. Quit blaming the manufacturer and look to your tuner and engine management.

 

When I say the Hack I mean the stock Map when used in conjuction to the Hack itself. Once the stock ECU reads pass the 10.5-11psi it throws out the check engine light. That is what I mean.

But I never said that I disagreed about the detonation. And you kept implying that I was running 13psi when this happened. In the beginning of the post, I mention that the car acted weird like 3 weeks earlier prior to the tunning. When it was running with the Hack at 9psi. The tune was great I mean it still put out some awesome #'s with 2 broken pistons.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any piston will look like that when you detonate it or run it too lean. On the other hand, the piston can have spikes on the top of it and it wont melt if your tune up is correct. Quit blaming the manufacturer and look to your tuner and engine management.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And where in the world do you see me knocking any manufacturer??
I said I would get another set of Wiseco's again but got a killer deal on the Mahle's. By no means were any of my comments negative towards anything or anyone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I say the Hack I mean the stock Map when used in conjuction to the Hack itself. Once the stock ECU reads pass the 10.5-11psi it throws out the check engine light. That is what I mean.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not quite. The MAP sensor can physically read up to 11psi, but the ECU will only recognize just over 1psi before it assumes a sensor failure and goes limp/CEL. That's why you have to pull enough fuel trim out of the injectors on the AFC, all you're doing is reducing the voltage the MAP signal wire is reporting to the ECU while keeping it as close to what the ECU thinks is atmosphereic.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But I never said that I disagreed about the detonation. And you kept implying that I was running 13psi when this happened. In the beginning of the post, I mention that the car acted weird like 3 weeks earlier prior to the tunning. When it was running with the Hack at 9psi. The tune was great I mean it still put out some awesome #'s with 2 broken pistons. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's the nature of the AFC hack to make great numbers by running timiming that would otherwise be run N/A, but under boost.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your friends must not know us because we've(not my car) made over 600whp on wisecos.

art</TD></TR></TABLE>


600whp can be made on wisecos, but make sure you upgrade the wrist pin.. i can't stress this enough.. forging is good on these pistons, but the wrist pin suxs cause they are made in taiwan....

 

screw the hack.... works like cr@p... get hondata or aem.. stop being cheap... that's why people come in here and cry cry cry..... do it right the first time!!!! been there done all that!!!! hack =

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecpower &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


600whp can be made on wisecos, but make sure you upgrade the wrist pin.. i can't stress this enough.. forging is good on these pistons, but the wrist pin suxs cause they are made in taiwan.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hahahhaaaa, you do reliazed 90% of the car parts today are made in China, Taiwan and those Asian countries right??

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecpower &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">screw the hack.... works like cr@p... get hondata or aem.. stop being cheap... that's why people come in here and cry cry cry..... do it right the first time!!!! been there done all that!!!! hack = </TD></TR></TABLE>

Even if you do it right the first time, **** will still happen. Like back in the days when VTC_CiViC had his Gs-R on boost with the Hondata. **** happened and it died. It all depends on your luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even if you do it right the first time, **** will still happen. Like back in the days when VTC_CiViC had his Gs-R on boost with the Hondata. **** happened and it died. It all depends on your luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but that was through no fault of the tuning. Going AFC hack on a built motor is just senseless.

Things happen, but running the hack on that motor is asking for problems to happen.

 

If it's signs of detonation, the rod bearings must see some major wear, piston deformation or full/partial melted plugs. But, honestly think the intake valve cut area on those particular custom made Wiseco pistons it's too thin & melted away. Piston designs influence alot in the flame propagation & heat transfer. Heat energy likes to travel toward the sharpest/thinest area of any metal, specially aluminum..

 

I'd be pissed...at my tuner if I pulled slugs out of my block and they were obliterated around the sides like that.

Seriously, man, that's nooooo good timing.

 

Well I am not upset at anyone.

My plugs was fine and is still fine, bearings are like new no stress anywhere that I have found.

I got new pistons anyways, this time the intake valve area is not cut like the Wiesco. Lets see if that helps.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1243826
That thread got locked cause I wanted to show people what the Mahle pistons looked like.

 

I had the my engine blow up three times in one year so don't feel bad

 

Same **** happened to my srp's They have the same design so I am also looking for something without the cut outs.

And for the melting off of these peices I don't think that is what happens. They may get reheated and melt the exposed broken edge. I say this cuz I had a bad sputter one time getting on the highway then it dropped to 3 cylinders. Pulled the plugs and one of my gaps was closed so I assume one of these chunks hit the spark plug on its way out. So I would look over your turbo really good.

 

those cutouts are too close to cylinder walls, too thin leave no room for accidents. I currently have je dished 81mm which is a better design. but I just order a set of wiseco 81.5mm and I hope its not like those.