It's almost time to throw the ls/vtec together and while pricing headstuds I found some GE's for about $20 less than I can find ARP's. I noticed that most of the people here use ARP's though so I was wondering if I should spend a little bit extra for the ARP's or if the GE's are just as good?

 

you might want to take a look at AEBs. I'm not sure if they have the LS ones yet though. The design seems to be superioir to the ARP...(thicker and has the dimple on the bottom). I believe GE has the same design. BTW, how much was the GEs that you found and where?

 

How can it be thicker if the thread diameter/pitch has to match the block?

 

My ARP's have a dimple on the bottom as well. No matter what headstuds you use just use assembly lube and torque to the proper specs and you will be alright

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can it be thicker if the thread diameter/pitch has to match the block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ya know, I don't know but there are two huge posts on ARP vs. AEBs and some people mentioned that they are 'thicker' side by side. SO who knows. Maybe the part with no thread?


I found this anyways GE vs. AEBs.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1030335

 

There is a reason that the ARP's taper in in the middle. It has absolutely nothing to do with how strong they are.

It has to do with the thermal expansion of the aluminum cylinder head.

 

Some people say they have to retorque the head studs with the ARPs. That problem doesn't seem to exist with the AEB studs.

 

You shouldn't have to with any studs. But its easy to check, and could be worth it to you to make sure.

 

Personally, I would hate to have to remove my cams just to get to the head studs...and then redoing everything. But that's just me.

 

yes the LS guys and D series guys are lucky. no need to remove anything but the valve cover. us VETC guys have to remove so much then set the cam timnig again. ugh. when I did this to check ym ARP's after break in. they were still tight too. god damn waste of time hahaha. My next set is AEBS for my b18C

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicross &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a reason that the ARP's taper in in the middle. It has absolutely nothing to do with how strong they are.

It has to do with the thermal expansion of the aluminum cylinder head.</TD></TR></TABLE>That is not why they are tapered in the center.
By tapering the stud, it evens out the stress/stretch over the entire length of the stud. Without doing that, the stud would be weaker in the threaded areas.
Just because a stud is thicker does not necessiarily mean it works better or is stronger. Works the same way with rod bolts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is not why they are tapered in the center.
By tapering the stud, it evens out the stress/stretch over the entire length of the stud. Without doing that, the stud would be weaker in the threaded areas.
Just because a stud is thicker does not necessiarily mean it works better or is stronger. Works the same way with rod bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how can you argue this guy?

Thicker sounds stronger to me... I went with AEBS but haven't had a chance to run my car yet...

 

The key word here is "sounds".

 

ARP all the way been using them for 5 yrs now, never a prob.
I don't know about the rest of em,cause i stick to what works for me.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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ALL PRICES ARE NEGOTIABLE SO DONT HESITATE TO ASK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Modified by aggressivemotorsports at 7:07 PM 1/20/2005

Call for Prices 201-296-0003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tchleung &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes the LS guys and D series guys are lucky. no need to remove anything but the valve cover. us VETC guys have to remove so much then set the cam timnig again. ugh. when I did this to check ym ARP's after break in. they were still tight too. god damn waste of time hahaha. My next set is AEBS for my b18C</TD></TR></TABLE>

What? 'Us LS guys' have to remove the cams as well as you Vtak'ers to retorque. I think it's that way with all DOHC.

I'm going to be doing my stud setup tonight. I plan on getting it together by tomorrow morning, doing a few laps around I-285, then heading back home to yank out the cams and recheck the torque.

But to the poster's question...I know the GE studs have dog points and have a nice surface finish on them. My ARP's do not have a the dog points. I was going to use some 3/16 SS ***** in the holes below the studs, but decided against it.


Modified by DaX at 12:20 PM 1/28/2005

 

oh really? haha sry I thought LS motors didn't have to remove cams. Now taht I think about it, I can see why haha

 

The studs will never need to be retorqued but I have a Sohc so I can if a want lol

 

that is my favorite part about d series engines.

ARP's for me. never had a problem.

 

ARP here also, never had a problem either

Chris

 

all the replies are talking about arps. does any one have any experience with the GE head studs

 

Our head studs, although new to the public, have been proven in application everywhere. They were used in the Skunk2 motors, Ed Bergenholtz's Mazda 6, and the same manufacturer as the studs found in the Saturn car of Lisa Kubo and the GM racing cars of Nelson Hoyos and Marty Ladwig, as well as Ron Lummus and many, many others. We wanted to be sure these studs were better than anything on the market before we released them to the public. Look for more applications to come soon.
Currently, we offer the following:
K20
K24
B16A
B18C
LS/Vtec ( B18A/B or B20 block with B16, B17 or B18C head )
GM Ecotec
Ford Duratec
Mazda 2.3L I4

We will be offering D15, D16Z and Y, H22, H23, F22, F23, Subaru EJ20/22/25
as well as main studs for all the above applications will be offered soon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoldenEagleMfg.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Our head studs, although new to the public, have been proven in application everywhere. They were used in the Skunk2 motors, Ed Bergenholtz's Mazda 6, and the same manufacturer as the studs found in the Saturn car of Lisa Kubo and the GM racing cars of Nelson Hoyos and Marty Ladwig, as well as Ron Lummus and many, many others. We wanted to be sure these studs were better than anything on the market before we released them to the public. Look for more applications to come soon.
Currently, we offer the following:
K20
K24
B16A
B18C
LS/Vtec ( B18A/B or B20 block with B16, B17 or B18C head )
GM Ecotec
Ford Duratec
Mazda 2.3L I4

We will be offering D15, D16Z and Y, H22, H23, F22, F23, Subaru EJ20/22/25
as well as main studs for all the above applications will be offered soon
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I kinda wanted to go GE but you guys don't make a flat out LS application.

 

You best be doin sum F20C's also

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You best be doin sum F20C's also </TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't worry Earl, they are on the way

 

Could you post a little more info on how these are manufactured? specifically, the method used to "cut" the threads. Thanks