Like it said, I am going boost... Begining after x mas I will start purchasing turbo parts... My delema is engine management. I know i need to be able to tune ignition and fuel, so i was looking at hondata. However, I saw only obd1 hondata systems, and I need to stay obd2 to pass NJ emissions. I have a 2000 civic cpe w/ a b16sir2 converted to obd2. Im using the 99-00 si ecu, which is the p2t I believe. So basically what I am asking is anyone w/ obd2, and in my case turbo em1 owners who would have a similar set up, what did you do for engine management??

BTW funds are limited!! However I want my engine tuned right, no ghetto afc and msd ignition module set-ups, I want a real engine management system.

Thanks for any input

 

bump, i know some is boostin obd2

 

My recommendation for OBD-II is AEM EMS. You said you dont want to spend a lot of money but it's one of the best OBD-II standalones out.

 

convert to obd1 with jumper harness...and run crome, neptune, hondata, uberdata lots of cheap mangement out there...

i personally used crome, hondata and aem ems...soon to go neptune...my ems kept blowing my ignitor...plus aem ems is sorta pricey

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Risa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plus aem ems is sorta pricey</TD></TR></TABLE>

So are ITR's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Risa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">convert to obd1 with jumper harness...and run crome, neptune, hondata, uberdata lots of cheap mangement out there...

i personally used crome, hondata and aem ems...soon to go neptune...my ems kept blowing my ignitor...plus aem ems is sorta pricey</TD></TR></TABLE>

AEM ems is mad expensive, n i dont have that kind of money, the problem with converting to obd1 is then i cant pass inspection... There are NO other ems for obd2 that dont cost like 1500 bux??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

AEM ems is mad expensive, n i dont have that kind of money, the problem with converting to obd1 is then i cant pass inspection... There are NO other ems for obd2 that dont cost like 1500 bux??</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can find a used AEM EMS for $900.00 - $1,100.00. I got my 30-1040 for $1,025.00 shipped brand new from a good seller.

 

Thats still alot... I guess u get what u pay for, any other obd2 ems out there??

 

You would still fail emissions with an AEM EMS, because it won't communicate with the OBD2 test

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madhive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You would still fail emissions with an AEM EMS, because it won't communicate with the OBD2 test </TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine AEM EMS did the same exact thing when I took my car in for emissions/inspection. Luckily i was working at a Mercedes Benz dealership and I had one of the techs do the emissions test for me and we tried 4 or 5 times to get a connection with EMS. Finaly after the computer said it could not "establish" a connection with the ECU. The guy doing the test just hit enter and it skipped everything and passed all the other steps. Kinda weird.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MONTCO Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Mine AEM EMS did the same exact thing when I took my car in for emissions/inspection. Luckily i was working at a Mercedes Benz dealership and I had one of the techs do the emissions test for me and we tried 4 or 5 times to get a connection with EMS. Finaly after the computer said it could not "establish" a connection with the ECU. The guy doing the test just hit enter and it skipped everything and passed all the other steps. Kinda weird.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Somebody was looking out for you Lucky son of a bit**.

j/k

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madhive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Somebody was looking out for you Lucky son of a bit**.

j/k </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL. Tell me about it!!!!

 

u are SOL if u want to pass emissions/inspection

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gssr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u are SOL if u want to pass emissions/inspection</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup.

 

what if i get one of these carb legal turbo kits?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if i get one of these carb legal turbo kits?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You could always do that.

The only other alternative I can think of (but is a shitty one at that) is a piggyback unit like the Emanage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Das Schmoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You could always do that.

The only other alternative I can think of (but is a shitty one at that) is a piggyback unit like the Emanage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Greddy e manage is obd2 compatable??

 

emanage will work, as will unichip.

I run AEM EMS (my car's obd2 also) and when it's inspection time I just install stock injectors, MAP, & ECU, pull the wastegate spring out, drive around a day or two (light on the throttle), and then go take the test.

Then swap everything back and you're good for another year.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Greddy e manage is obd2 compatable??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but I wouldn't recommend it. I had horrible experiences with it, so I just sold it and went with a chipped OBD1 ecu.

Between the tons of wiring and 2 hour installation, the constant check engine lights, boggy running, and OBD2 learning around it, it is more of a hassle than helpful.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">emanage will work, as will unichip.

I run AEM EMS (my car's obd2 also) and when it's inspection time I just install stock injectors, MAP, & ECU, pull the wastegate spring out, drive around a day or two (light on the throttle), and then go take the test.

Then swap everything back and you're good for another year.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I did.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0x64 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So are ITR's </TD></TR></TABLE>

true dat itr's are pricey too

 

ok, thanks for the help, i think i will use a conversion harness to obd1, use hondata, and at inspection time swap the injectors, put back the obd2 ecu, n hope i pass.

 

I bought a little OBD2 scanner so I could check and see when ready codes got set, then just drive around real easy until they get set and take it right to the inspection place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, thanks for the help, i think i will use a conversion harness to obd1, use hondata, and at inspection time swap the injectors, put back the obd2 ecu, n hope i pass.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok I was wondering about this my self. Heres the process i'd be thinking of. Have all your obdII items (manifold, sparkplugs, injectors, fuel pump, ecu...) in some kind of container. write some notes about anything that was difficult or something important about the installation that you might (will) forget. If you have to deal with a visual inspection, then you will have to take EVERYTHING turbo related and go back to stock. If you dont (here in IL they check the gas cap and plug in) then i was thinking wouldnt you change every thing back to stock EXCEPT keep the turbo on, un hook part of the charge piping. Filter it like if you had short ram and keep filters on both sides of the charge pipes (so not to get dirt / garbage in the system) so the turbo is still spinning but not forcing the air into your engine. I dunno if thats a good idea but i was thinking abou it.

 

I wouldn't unload the compressor side of the turbo, it can overspin. I just stayed out of the throttle and drove around real easy for a bit and it was fine. No visual inspection in NC though.