Funny starting
Ok here is some background info, brand new d16z6 vitara eagle build, t3/t4 57 trim, .62 ar. ecu chipped with chip kit from xenocron.
I start the car, starts right away.
Let it warm up, it doesnt seem to get any worse, but then it starts to get a surging idle. i let it do that for a sec, and then i shut it off.
i try to restart it, and it just cranks and cranks, but never catches.
the surging idle might be the iacv or the fast idle valve too, but i have no clue why it wont restart
it has a solid cel, and i cant pull a code. but im not sure if it is on when i start it or if it comes on later, i dont remeber
I NEED HELP, PLZ LOL!
I start the car, starts right away.
Let it warm up, it doesnt seem to get any worse, but then it starts to get a surging idle. i let it do that for a sec, and then i shut it off.
i try to restart it, and it just cranks and cranks, but never catches.
the surging idle might be the iacv or the fast idle valve too, but i have no clue why it wont restart
it has a solid cel, and i cant pull a code. but im not sure if it is on when i start it or if it comes on later, i dont remeber
I NEED HELP, PLZ LOL!
when i set the jumper, and turn the key to the on position, the cel light stays on solid, no flashing, although after a lil pause the srs light will flash, but that is a constant flash, i dont know why it would do that.
I am running a stock z6 manifold and TB, although the TB is from an automatic, but it should still be the same right? it just has an extra spot for a cable. I dont have the book infront of me, but what is the thing under the intake manifold that has coolant flowing through it, isnt that the fast idle valve? if i had an air bubble in the system it could cause that to surge right?
yesterday after i shut it off, and it wouldnt restart, i pulled the plugs out, and they were covered in fuel, i think that might be because i was cranking it over with out it starting. so not starting could either be too much fuel, or no/bad spark. im gonna check that out today, i didnt get much time after i posted yesterday, cause i promised to hang out with some friends. so i guess i will just start after work today.
Any help is greatly apreciated.
I am running a stock z6 manifold and TB, although the TB is from an automatic, but it should still be the same right? it just has an extra spot for a cable. I dont have the book infront of me, but what is the thing under the intake manifold that has coolant flowing through it, isnt that the fast idle valve? if i had an air bubble in the system it could cause that to surge right?
yesterday after i shut it off, and it wouldnt restart, i pulled the plugs out, and they were covered in fuel, i think that might be because i was cranking it over with out it starting. so not starting could either be too much fuel, or no/bad spark. im gonna check that out today, i didnt get much time after i posted yesterday, cause i promised to hang out with some friends. so i guess i will just start after work today.
Any help is greatly apreciated.
Well when it doesnt start, it still has spark, i just checked that. I was also thinking, could it be a bad temp sensor that cause it both the surging and no starting? i was thinking maby it was telling the engine was still cold, and it dumps so much fuel in that it floods it?
anyone have any ideas at all? ANYthing is apreciated.
anyone have any ideas at all? ANYthing is apreciated.
For sake of simplicity, I HOPE it's an ECT sensor. Mine had similar issues, and would often have starting as well. It'd eventually, after purging a bit and cooling down, start quite rough with me having to press accelerator a bit until it finally caught itself.
Do your surges go up to 1000 or 1500'ish? If so, we share similar symptoms, and you may want to try ECT replacement. It was just a $25 part (after tax) for me at O'Reilly, and just required a 19 mm wrench and some shop towels (it will drip coolant) to install.
Let me know how things turn out if you decide your issue is similar enough and go to replace ECT.
Do your surges go up to 1000 or 1500'ish? If so, we share similar symptoms, and you may want to try ECT replacement. It was just a $25 part (after tax) for me at O'Reilly, and just required a 19 mm wrench and some shop towels (it will drip coolant) to install.
Let me know how things turn out if you decide your issue is similar enough and go to replace ECT.
yeah, i replaced the etc sensor yesterday, and no dice, it behaves just as before.
I also tried cutting the jumper and tried starting it up, started right away, and didn't seem to surge at all, although i didn't want to run it too long like that, cause it was running pretty lean.
The CEL was gone as well, so that tells me i F'ed up somewhere when i chipped it right?
even if it was a bad basemap (very unlikely), it couldn't cause a solid CEL with no codes right?
i looked over my soldering job, and didnt see any problems. although it is hard to tell cause the flux left over on the board gets in the way, and when i tried to wipe it off, it just stuck to the paper towel.
i dont think i could have fried the chip, because the rom chip had a socket to put it in, although the other chip was soldered directly to the board, i was very careful not to let it heat up, by soldering one pin at a time and then letting it cool. If i don't find anything wrong, i may just have to send out to be checked out professionally.
I also tried cutting the jumper and tried starting it up, started right away, and didn't seem to surge at all, although i didn't want to run it too long like that, cause it was running pretty lean.
The CEL was gone as well, so that tells me i F'ed up somewhere when i chipped it right?
even if it was a bad basemap (very unlikely), it couldn't cause a solid CEL with no codes right?
i looked over my soldering job, and didnt see any problems. although it is hard to tell cause the flux left over on the board gets in the way, and when i tried to wipe it off, it just stuck to the paper towel.
i dont think i could have fried the chip, because the rom chip had a socket to put it in, although the other chip was soldered directly to the board, i was very careful not to let it heat up, by soldering one pin at a time and then letting it cool. If i don't find anything wrong, i may just have to send out to be checked out professionally.
I don't suppose you have any method of checking engine statistics, like temperatures and such to see if anything else could be dead? (I use a ScanGauge II.)
Best of luck whatever the outcome.
Best of luck whatever the outcome.
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So i went over my chipping job, and i found two cold solder joints, so i reheated all of the joints, and then plugged it in yesterday, it starts and runs like a dream lol. high idles at 2000, and then slowly creeps down to about 850 or so. I runs fine, took it for a lil spin as well, thanks for all your help!
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