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I just finished my d16z6 with JE 8.5:1 pistons and eagle rods. I'm running it open deck and the engine turned smoothly on the engine stand. So far i've changes every part of the cooling system except the water pump. I've changed the radiator, the thermostat, I took it out and it ran cooler for a little. I've even changed the HeadGasket and milled the head hoping it would fix the problem. It's running an SFP turbo mani with a t3/t4 .48/.60, everyhting's ceramic coated. The Radiator has two fans on it too. Without two it would overheat at idle. Now it overheats when you ride it a little hard around the neighberhood. For sure if i take it on the highway it'll overheat. Anything i haven't tried ??

 

are your fans wired right? sucking air into the engine bay ?

 

Air bubble? Full fluid?

 

Well first thing I would try is if you can go out at night with your hood off

I tried that when I had some overheating problems and my car ran 190* no problems

It turned out my fan was wired incorrect and blowing into the rad instead of sucking into the engine bay

In your case, obviously its the waterpump

Why in the hell would you take off the head and have it milled and not change the $46 water pump then?

 

The engine was just rebuilt and all the components in the bottom end were replaced. If it doesn't leak, and it's brand new....
The fan switch is jumped so the fans run when i turn on the ignition, and there's two of them, and yea they're blowin in the right direction. The engine has an open deck too. No air bubbles either. I'll try driven it around with the hood off, that sounds like a good idea.

 

your coolant reservoir is full are u sure u are not overheating because of hg?

 

having the same problem here with a customer car that was turboed.

heres the history of the cursed car:

day 1:turbo installed on a D15b with a mildly shaved head and regrinds with 370cc inj and uberdata on 6psi= overheated and warped the head / cracked ring lands

day 2:milled head new lower comp. pistons, new rings, honed block new gasket
= overheat blew HG

day 3:got new head checked block for warp new gasket, replaced cam w/ stock, stock cam gear new rad. new fan= overheat and blew HG

day 4:got a y8 block checked head for warp(non), new HG New head bolts (stock)
new thermo, new sensor thermo. direct wired fan new hoses.= over heat

day 5:frustrated and tired ran the car with temp. up to the max made some crazy pulls temp. gauge was on red all the time but no steam at the reserve and no water spilage. decided that the gauge was fucked up. got a separate gauge for H2o temp.

day 6:tuned uber to run 10psi. AFR was on the 12.3 to 12.6 range.=blew HG

day 7:milled head and new HG. temp gauges reads up to 85'c when driven hard but still getting the occacional steaming from time to time

day 8:water pump gave out= over heat

up to now still overheating on occasions

Car is running now but temp goes up to 3/4 of the gauge and looses some coolant even on daily driving with A/C. fan is wired direct and running the right direction

 

So what you're sayin is I should sell all the parts and go Kseries before I waste any more time . Gotcha

 

I bet your them is stuck shut.......... have you checked?

 

He said its new, personally, I pulled mine when i was overheating, it prolongs the overheating and voids out the thermo from being a problem

Deifnetely take it out on the highway with no hood at night though, or even prop the back of your hood up 1/2" with washers like I still run, get the hot air out of that bay

 

yea that seems like my best bet, I dont have the thermostat installed either(sealed up the housing with honda bond and i let it cure 24hrs before I refilled it).

 

Well to me honestly you definetely have a warpage problem and are blowing headgaskets

The ride on the highway wont work if thats the case

You probably never had your deck check for straightness right? If its still overheating that would be my next choice

 

pull your thermostat out, and see if it fixes it.

 

Ok man do these steps first.

1st. when u installed the right way with the air relief valve on the top.
2nd Verify the fans are working well. let the car run and take a pice of paper in the front of the rad and see if it gets sucked into the rad
3rd. Start the car let it get warm and then fill the overflow to the max or min mark go for a drive and see if it goes up.

The d series are know for head lifting and so forth.

Ive went threw this whole nightmare before.

Problem is when the head lifts it puts air in the coolant system and cause a air buble and ur cooling effect gets fucked.

Another thing how much antifreeze do u have in there

 

I bled the cooling system everytime i had to drain the coolant, i always keep it 50/50. I dont doubt your expertise but i doubt the head is lifting at 20% throttle with 1lb of boost. theres no smoke or noise from the resovoir. I haven't payed attention to where the level is tho. I'll check it next time i go for a spin.

The deck is flat, i checked it before and after i had the block bored and honed. The head was just milled so it's flat. Not to mention that if that were the issue it would probably be smoking all sorts of colors.

 

I had the same problem with my turbo d16 and it was due to the head lifting so i changed the head gasket and put some arp head studs in... that fixed the problem..

 

Yea I have those installed..