fuel pump for crx?
04-11-2003, 06:19 AM
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Re: fuel pump for crx? (babyboib16)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by babyboib16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the walbro fuel pump bolt right in to my 89 crx? or do i have to do some mods and take the fuel cell off to get to it? also how well did it work in your car cause i want to get the albro 255lph-Hp part # gss341(400-965)?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It ought to plug right in, have fun dropping the tank.....I've got a Gss342 on the way, but thats cause my stock HF pump crapped out on me and I converted the wiring harness intank to accept the newer style fuel pumps. That's the only difference as far as I can tell tho.
Groupbuycenter.com has Walbro's for $105 overnight shipped.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It ought to plug right in, have fun dropping the tank.....I've got a Gss342 on the way, but thats cause my stock HF pump crapped out on me and I converted the wiring harness intank to accept the newer style fuel pumps. That's the only difference as far as I can tell tho.
Groupbuycenter.com has Walbro's for $105 overnight shipped.
04-11-2003, 08:09 AM
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Re: fuel pump for crx? (Speed PHreak)
Here is a write-up I did for installing the Walbro in my CRX. Enjoy!!
Walbro 255lt/hr pump install notes
Here are some notes or tips I had when installing the Walbro 255lt/hr pump on my 88 CRX Si.
Dropping the tank:
1. Drain the gas. Don’t smoke or use a gas/kerosene heater. Duh!
2. You will need to buy two new J-bolts from Honda. The originals will not be reusable. Get the nuts from a hardware store, Honda wants $1 each.
3. The hoses may be fragile so be prepared to run and get replacements. I had to cut only one and it was a standard fuel line size.
4. The pain: the tank connects to the hardline via a flexible line that mounts to the frame rail. This will be rusted to hell. Be sure to hold the bracket while turning the fitting. The bracket will collapse easily. If you decide to cut the flexible hose, it isn’t cheap and is a dealer only part. I ended up cutting it, replacing it with AN6 hose and a Solex fitting at the tank. I used a compression fitting on the hardline after I sanded all the powder coating off the line. It sealed to 100 psi no problem.
Pump install:
1. Remove the pump assembly from the tank. On the bench remove wiring and the old pump. Now, you can wire it the same way, but be aware that the stock pump never draws more than 5 amps and is wired for that. The 255 pump can easily draw 15A, so I recommend you do not wire it using the existing wire. Instead drill a hole in the top of the assembly and pull the wires out the top. Seal the hole with gas tank sealer putty.
2. The pump will rest between the new rubber base provided with the pump and the hose above it. Do not zip-tie the pump to the support frame, unless you like a lot of buzzing noise. Let it be supported by the hose and base. It won’t go anywhere.
3. Connect the sock and make sure it is on good. Use the old pump and sock to make sure the depth is right. Mine required no bending of the bracket to reach the same depth.
4. Put assembly back into tank.
Wiring:
1. OK, so the new pump is going to draw some serious amps. You will need to wire a bigger gauge to the pump and use a relay or you will smoke your main relay.
2. Extend the pump-on hot wire from the harness that used to go to the pump and the two wires from the pump. Leave the ground connected to the top of the pump assembly.
3. Drill a hole in the body so you can work in the back of the hatch. I drilled just to the driver’s side of the two screw mounts for the vertical divider.
4. Run the pump hot and the pump-on hot through the hole (with a bushing or other anti-chafing method). Attach a ring terminal to the pump ground and bolt to the frame after sanding the terminal junction.
5. Mount a 30A relay close to the hole. I found there is a gap between the compartment and the vertical divider that a relay will fit in fine.
6. Put the pump hot on one side of the contacts and the pump-on hot on one side of the coil. Ground the other side of the coil with a nearby bolt.
7. Run a fused hot from the battery to the other side of the contact. Use a nice 10Ga. Wire and a 30A fuse. The fuse should be within 7 inches of the battery and sealed from the environment.
Too much fuel pressure:
1. Check your base fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected from the FPR. If it is 35-38 then apply the vacuum line and verify it goes down to about 28 psi. If this does not happen you must drill a bypass in the fpr. I also recommend a B&M fuel pressure riser for full adjustability.
2. Start by drilling a 0.035” hole in the FPR ala TOO’s method http://www.theoldone.com/ And repeat step 1. If it is still too high, then drill it to 0.040” and repeat and so on and so forth. I ended up with a 0.046875” hole and I can adjust my pressure via a B&M riser ($55 from most places).
Final notes:
1. I don’t notice the Walbro at all. The buzz is very quiet and when I have a full in
Walbro 255lt/hr pump install notes
Here are some notes or tips I had when installing the Walbro 255lt/hr pump on my 88 CRX Si.
Dropping the tank:
1. Drain the gas. Don’t smoke or use a gas/kerosene heater. Duh!
2. You will need to buy two new J-bolts from Honda. The originals will not be reusable. Get the nuts from a hardware store, Honda wants $1 each.
3. The hoses may be fragile so be prepared to run and get replacements. I had to cut only one and it was a standard fuel line size.
4. The pain: the tank connects to the hardline via a flexible line that mounts to the frame rail. This will be rusted to hell. Be sure to hold the bracket while turning the fitting. The bracket will collapse easily. If you decide to cut the flexible hose, it isn’t cheap and is a dealer only part. I ended up cutting it, replacing it with AN6 hose and a Solex fitting at the tank. I used a compression fitting on the hardline after I sanded all the powder coating off the line. It sealed to 100 psi no problem.
Pump install:
1. Remove the pump assembly from the tank. On the bench remove wiring and the old pump. Now, you can wire it the same way, but be aware that the stock pump never draws more than 5 amps and is wired for that. The 255 pump can easily draw 15A, so I recommend you do not wire it using the existing wire. Instead drill a hole in the top of the assembly and pull the wires out the top. Seal the hole with gas tank sealer putty.
2. The pump will rest between the new rubber base provided with the pump and the hose above it. Do not zip-tie the pump to the support frame, unless you like a lot of buzzing noise. Let it be supported by the hose and base. It won’t go anywhere.
3. Connect the sock and make sure it is on good. Use the old pump and sock to make sure the depth is right. Mine required no bending of the bracket to reach the same depth.
4. Put assembly back into tank.
Wiring:
1. OK, so the new pump is going to draw some serious amps. You will need to wire a bigger gauge to the pump and use a relay or you will smoke your main relay.
2. Extend the pump-on hot wire from the harness that used to go to the pump and the two wires from the pump. Leave the ground connected to the top of the pump assembly.
3. Drill a hole in the body so you can work in the back of the hatch. I drilled just to the driver’s side of the two screw mounts for the vertical divider.
4. Run the pump hot and the pump-on hot through the hole (with a bushing or other anti-chafing method). Attach a ring terminal to the pump ground and bolt to the frame after sanding the terminal junction.
5. Mount a 30A relay close to the hole. I found there is a gap between the compartment and the vertical divider that a relay will fit in fine.
6. Put the pump hot on one side of the contacts and the pump-on hot on one side of the coil. Ground the other side of the coil with a nearby bolt.
7. Run a fused hot from the battery to the other side of the contact. Use a nice 10Ga. Wire and a 30A fuse. The fuse should be within 7 inches of the battery and sealed from the environment.
Too much fuel pressure:
1. Check your base fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected from the FPR. If it is 35-38 then apply the vacuum line and verify it goes down to about 28 psi. If this does not happen you must drill a bypass in the fpr. I also recommend a B&M fuel pressure riser for full adjustability.
2. Start by drilling a 0.035” hole in the FPR ala TOO’s method http://www.theoldone.com/ And repeat step 1. If it is still too high, then drill it to 0.040” and repeat and so on and so forth. I ended up with a 0.046875” hole and I can adjust my pressure via a B&M riser ($55 from most places).
Final notes:
1. I don’t notice the Walbro at all. The buzz is very quiet and when I have a full in
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