fpr's: b&m VS AEM
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From: ca, 95064
fpr's: b&m VS AEM
you always get what you pay for, and the AEM, price-wise, beats the b&m, but how much advantage does it offer at $100 extra? any people w/ experience w/ the b&m tell me whats wrong w/ it? im gonna be running a standalone w/ a 255lph intank, 450 dsm's. thanks.
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From: Dark Aether
Re: fpr's: b&m VS AEM (ceemarun)
The B&M is not an FPR. It is simply an adjustable top that you attach to to your stock FPR after you cut off the original top. It adds adjustability to the stock FPR, but you are still limited by the constraints of the stock FPR. Those constraints are:
1) Some stock FPR's do not increase fuel pressure under boost (see earlier discussion). That is fine and not really a problem unless you want to trade maps with someone or try someone else's map who does have an FPR that raises fuel pressure under boost.
2) The return orifice in the stock FPR is too small to handle the fuel delivered by aftermarket pumps at idle. As a result, your idle pressure will be too high (usually around 50 psi) and the only way to get it back down is to drill a relief hole in the FPR (which can cause other problems).
These characteristics of the stock FPR do not stop many people from using them. They work fine. However, since you are starting from scratch with a Hondata setup and you'll be borrowing a base map from someone (probably me), those constraints will keep you from being able to accurately use my map.
I know you're trying to cut some cost by not buying the AEM, but if you want to run my map, I will not give it to you if you don't have it (see my reasons why in the other post
). You may save $100 by not buying the AEM, but I guarantee you that you will spend that and then some on getting your part throttle maps tuned later.
Sonny
[Modified by Sonny, 7:51 PM 6/17/2002]
1) Some stock FPR's do not increase fuel pressure under boost (see earlier discussion). That is fine and not really a problem unless you want to trade maps with someone or try someone else's map who does have an FPR that raises fuel pressure under boost.
2) The return orifice in the stock FPR is too small to handle the fuel delivered by aftermarket pumps at idle. As a result, your idle pressure will be too high (usually around 50 psi) and the only way to get it back down is to drill a relief hole in the FPR (which can cause other problems).
These characteristics of the stock FPR do not stop many people from using them. They work fine. However, since you are starting from scratch with a Hondata setup and you'll be borrowing a base map from someone (probably me), those constraints will keep you from being able to accurately use my map.
I know you're trying to cut some cost by not buying the AEM, but if you want to run my map, I will not give it to you if you don't have it (see my reasons why in the other post
). You may save $100 by not buying the AEM, but I guarantee you that you will spend that and then some on getting your part throttle maps tuned later.Sonny
[Modified by Sonny, 7:51 PM 6/17/2002]
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 499
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From: ca, 95064
Re: fpr's: b&m VS AEM (Sonny)
The B&M is not an FPR. It is simply an adjustable top that you attach to to your stock FPR after you cut off the original top. It adds adjustability to the stock FPR, but you are still limited by the constraints of the stock FPR. Those constraints are:
1) Some stock FPR's do not increase fuel pressure under boost (see earlier discussion). That is fine and not really a problem unless you want to trade maps with someone or try someone else's map who does have an FPR that raises fuel pressure under boost.
2) The return orifice in the stock FPR is too small to handle the fuel delivered by aftermarket pumps at idle. As a result, your idle pressure will be too high (usually around 50 psi) and the only way to get it back down is to drill a relief hole in the FPR (which can cause other problems).
These characteristics of the stock FPR do not stop many people from using them. They work fine. However, since you are starting from scratch with a Hondata setup and you'll be borrowing a base map from someone (probably me), those constraints will keep you from being able to accurately use my map.
I know you're trying to cut some cost by not buying the AEM, but if you want to run my map, I will not give it to you if you don't have it (see my reasons why in the other post). You may save $100 by not buying the AEM, but I guarantee you that you will spend that and then some on getting your part throttle maps tuned later.
Sonny
[Modified by Sonny, 7:51 PM 6/17/2002]
1) Some stock FPR's do not increase fuel pressure under boost (see earlier discussion). That is fine and not really a problem unless you want to trade maps with someone or try someone else's map who does have an FPR that raises fuel pressure under boost.
2) The return orifice in the stock FPR is too small to handle the fuel delivered by aftermarket pumps at idle. As a result, your idle pressure will be too high (usually around 50 psi) and the only way to get it back down is to drill a relief hole in the FPR (which can cause other problems).
These characteristics of the stock FPR do not stop many people from using them. They work fine. However, since you are starting from scratch with a Hondata setup and you'll be borrowing a base map from someone (probably me), those constraints will keep you from being able to accurately use my map.
I know you're trying to cut some cost by not buying the AEM, but if you want to run my map, I will not give it to you if you don't have it (see my reasons why in the other post
). You may save $100 by not buying the AEM, but I guarantee you that you will spend that and then some on getting your part throttle maps tuned later.Sonny
[Modified by Sonny, 7:51 PM 6/17/2002]
aem it is
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Pembroke Pines, Florida, United States
Re: fpr's: b&m VS AEM (Sonny)
The B&M is not an FPR. It is simply an adjustable top that you attach to to your stock FPR after you cut off the original top. It adds adjustability to the stock FPR, but you are still limited by the constraints of the stock FPR. Those constraints are:
1) Some stock FPR's do not increase fuel pressure under boost (see earlier discussion). That is fine and not really a problem unless you want to trade maps with someone or try someone else's map who does have an FPR that raises fuel pressure under boost.
I thought ALL stock FPRs didn't increase with boost.
2) The return orifice in the stock FPR is too small to handle the fuel delivered by aftermarket pumps at idle. As a result, your idle pressure will be too high (usually around 50 psi) and the only way to get it back down is to drill a relief hole in the FPR (which can cause other problems).
True dat
These characteristics of the stock FPR do not stop many people from using them. They work fine. However, since you are starting from scratch with a Hondata setup and you'll be borrowing a base map from someone (probably me), those constraints will keep you from being able to accurately use my map.
I know you're trying to cut some cost by not buying the AEM, but if you want to run my map, I will not give it to you if you don't have it (see my reasons why in the other post). You may save $100 by not buying the AEM, but I guarantee you that you will spend that and then some on getting your part throttle maps tuned later.
True again
Sonny
[Modified by Sonny, 7:51 PM 6/17/2002]
1) Some stock FPR's do not increase fuel pressure under boost (see earlier discussion). That is fine and not really a problem unless you want to trade maps with someone or try someone else's map who does have an FPR that raises fuel pressure under boost.
I thought ALL stock FPRs didn't increase with boost.
2) The return orifice in the stock FPR is too small to handle the fuel delivered by aftermarket pumps at idle. As a result, your idle pressure will be too high (usually around 50 psi) and the only way to get it back down is to drill a relief hole in the FPR (which can cause other problems).
True dat
These characteristics of the stock FPR do not stop many people from using them. They work fine. However, since you are starting from scratch with a Hondata setup and you'll be borrowing a base map from someone (probably me), those constraints will keep you from being able to accurately use my map.
I know you're trying to cut some cost by not buying the AEM, but if you want to run my map, I will not give it to you if you don't have it (see my reasons why in the other post
). You may save $100 by not buying the AEM, but I guarantee you that you will spend that and then some on getting your part throttle maps tuned later.True again
Sonny
[Modified by Sonny, 7:51 PM 6/17/2002]
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From: Portland, OR
Re: fpr's: b&m VS AEM (CivicRyda2k)
I've heard of people having problems with the AEM; I think the diaphragm in it fails, though it could be something else. I haven't had any problems with B&M, though. Is 25psi not a sufficient minimum to run 450's? Stock pressure is 30-35, is it not? So, you can lower it a bit, in addition to the fact that the hondata or VAFC are supposed to be able to use the stock fpr.
New User
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: NY, USA
Re: fpr's: b&m VS AEM (ion_four)
you can run 25psi but why? I couldnt get mine to go below 50psi static (WOT).
Seems if you go low in pressure your duty cycles go up. I have RC440s and my duty cycles never go above 70% at 10.5psi boost pressure.
Seems if you go low in pressure your duty cycles go up. I have RC440s and my duty cycles never go above 70% at 10.5psi boost pressure.
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