EGkid

Alright so i have a B&M fuel pressure gauge and a purple fpr, i think its b&m but not positive. Anywho, i'm running rc 750's, a walboro 255 hp, and uberdata.

I noticed my gauge reading at 60 the other day at idle so i go to lower it and nothing, so i figured my fpr was dirty and needed to be cleaned, took it all apart, cleaned it up and still nothing, but i noticed it went up to 80 at idle for some reason. Now i can't lower it at all and its not dropping from 80, i have no clue what it may be. When i turn my car off the guage still reads 80psi.

Does anybody have any idea what my problem may be? Any help/comments appreciated

Thanks

EGkid

anybody, please help

Treblarefils

Mine wont lower either basically its a POS and i dont like it anymore. But mine is stuck at 42 psi wich is where i want it so its ok. I also am running the walbro 255 pump uberdata and rc 550s. maybe the pump is having some effect i think on mine at least. It operated fine with the stock fuel pump.

del_orson

my fuel presure went up from 45 to 60 after my fuel pump was installed, cant get it any lower than 47

Treblarefils

Yeah its really weird the other day out of curiosity i wanted to see what changing my fuel pressure would do to my A/F ratios on my wideband and i couldnt get the thing to lower at all and cranked the screw pretty good.

V-SPEC 1

The reasons why you can't get the pressure to go down is because the Walbro 255 made the fuel pressure very high. The only suggestion I can give you is get rid of the junk half stock/ half aftermarket fuel regulator like the B&M and some others. Get the SX, Aeromotive, AEM or boostfed.com have a nice fuel regulator as well. I've tried the same thing on my friend's car and it won't go down to 50-55 psi. You can drill a tiny hole somewhere on the regulator to make the pressure go down, but it's kind of getto way but work.

EGkid

yeah i was thinking of picking up an aeromotive fpr within the next few days

i don't think i'll be driving the car while i'm waiting for a new one, 80psi is pretty effin' rich lol

EGkid

ttt

King-Kong

well on my crx i had a walbro 255Lph and used the b&m command flow and the lowest fuel pressure i could reach was 40 lbs, i ran rich all summer, i also ran 360 injectors and on a d-series, if that helps at all. But dont expect miracles with the command flow

White Smoke

This is a common problem with the b&m unit.
A search will give you all the info that I believe you are looking for.

EGkid

alright so i took apart my fpr again today, put an air compressor to it to clean it out put it together and still nothing...anybody have a link to where i could pick up an aeromotive fpr?

V-SPEC 1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright so i took apart my fpr again today, put an air compressor to it to clean it out put it together and still nothing...anybody have a link to where i could pick up an aeromotive fpr?</TD></TR></TABLE>here you go:
http://store.summitracing.com/...h.asp

EGkid

so tonight i threw on a different fpr, turns out it was my POS b&m gauge that was broken, so i plan on getting something that's liquid filled, i guess i'll call summit tomorrow and see what i can get

trentepic

yeah, it seems if you have the gauge right on the fuel rail, it will shake the gauge to death, jsut isolate it by runnin a short peice of flexible line to it instead. i personally dont know anything baout liquid filled gauges, is there purpose, vibration failure resistance? i suppose that would help.
-Toby

NICEHATCH

I too am having this nightmare! I upgraded to an aftermarket warlbro 255 fuel pump and the B&M unit will not let me go lower than 40psi. I need to lower my Fp on my JDM H22 which has a stock idle FPR @ 30psi/40WOT because with it this high it causes severe bogging issues and pops gas in between shifts like crazy!!!

Does anyone have the write up on how to drill the pinsize hole on the FPR to lower it? I have checked the archive and present fprums and can't find anything.

Please post it...would be much appreciated.

fastrunner

check out the ENDYN website they have a good wite up in archives I think, something about relieving pressure. http://www.theoldone.com,
on a similar note, my FPR guage ticks rapidly between 40 and thirty... really weird and frustrating cant adjust FPR cuz I cant get a reading.

NICEHATCH

Here ya go...here's the write up on the article on how to lower your fuel pressure.

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/regulator/


How Do You Spell Relief?

Most high performance Hondas require fuel delivery beyond the capacity of the stock fuel system . This necessitates the installation of larger injectors and a high-output aftermarket fuel pump, of the in-tank, or in-line variety.

Unfortunately, in addition to increasing available fuel volume, most of these high-output pumps increase fuel pressure across the range as well. This pressure increase at idle and in the lower rpm ranges can cause the engine to run excessively rich, causing poor mileage, illegal emission levels, premature catalytic converter failure, plug fouling, and generally poor overall performance.

To remedy the problem, it's necessary to reduce the fuel pressure by installing an adjustable-kit such as the B&M on the stock pressure regulator. While this will permit pressure adjustment, many enthusiasts find that they still can't lower idle pressures enough to alleviate their problems.

The orifice (or valve) inside the Honda regulators is so small in diameter that it serves as a restriction to fuel returning to the tank, so no amount of adjustment will drop the pressure.

Our method for solving this problem is to drill a pressure relief hole in the regulator, connecting the inlet area to the exit. This will allow some excess pressure to by-pass the restrictive valve in the regulator.



This is a picture of a Honda fuel pressure regulator with the "top" sawed off for installation of a B&M adjustability kit.

The fuel entry is the orifice surrounded by the "O" ring and the exit is the tube protruding from the bottom of the regulator.



We've found that drilling a hole of approximately .035" diameter will effectively drop pressure to acceptable levels. Small drill bits like this can be purchased through hobby shops, or most good hardware stores. Since bits of this size are frequently smaller than the chucks can grip on most electric drills, the use of a Dremel, or hand-twist vice is recommended.



In this picture, you can see we've removed the "O" ring and drilled the pressure relief hole inside the fuel entry orifice.



Note that the hole we drill is angled toward the exit end of the regulator.



Another picture (with the drill bit in the hole), showing that we start the hole in the lower half of the entry orifice and angle it down toward the exit.

The most difficult part of this modification is the removal of the regulator from the fuel rail. In most instances, performing this operation and installing the adjustable regulator kit should require less than an hour of your time and the results of your efforts will be very satisfying. Your car will thank you.

Laserjock

Get the gauge from alchemist. I added the option of using the part that mounts the gauge right at the fuel filter. Extra insurance I feel from the engine vibration. I have been using my B&M now for 3 months w/o problems running the 255 and 450's. Knock on wood. I do have an Aeromotive reg and a STR rail on the side in case anything happens.

http://www.aempower.com/product_ems.asp

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so tonight i threw on a different fpr, turns out it was my POS b&m gauge that was broken, so i plan on getting something that's liquid filled, i guess i'll call summit tomorrow and see what i can get</TD></TR></TABLE>